the Gentleman Smoker
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Kevin Godbee - Feb 4, 2014
- 6 min read
Steve Morrisette
This column is about Gentleman’s Style and it’s various forms of expression as they intersect the experiences of pipe smokers and all lovers of fine tobaccos.
Why a style column?
There is currently a resurgence of interest in men’s fashion.
You can find variations of this statement more and more frequently these days across the media spectrum. You may have also noticed the increasing attention the media is focusing on the apparent growing popularity of the pipe hobby among young adults. Though possibly coincidental, I believe there is a subtle, if tenuous, relationship between the two.
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From the Victorian period forward to the late 1960’s, pipe and cigar smoking among men was quite common and ubiquitous. We all know this. During these same times men (and women ) were far more attentive to the proprieties that expressed respect and grace in social interactions. This respect shown in civil discourse was echoed in a gentleman’s ( and lady’s ) style and dress as well.
All this fell away in the late 60’s with the “Let it all hang out” attitudes that set the coming tone and style for society over the next fifty years.
Pipe smoking is a talisman of that bygone era; an era remembered to have been a calmer and more civilized time of gentlemanly behavior and style. Dressing well also harkens back to such times. I recall that my father never went downtown without a nice jacket and tie if he wasn’t wearing a suit. And always with one of his small brimmed fedoras that were so popular at the time. This was to show respect and also to present himself, at a glance, as the gentleman he was. He invariably was smoking his pipe as well.
In today’s atmosphere of vitriolic political wrangling, banking frauds, terrorism, the NSA and a perceived growing lack of respect for one’s fellow man, folks may indeed be longing for the civilities of days gone by.
Everything old is new again
It is interesting to note that at the 2014 Pitti Uomo, a highly regarded twice yearly men’s fashion industry event in Florence, Italy, a significant number of the stylish and splendid attendees were seen smoking pipes and cigars. Pipes in particular seemed to be incorporated into outfits and employed as an expression of style. It is also important to note the happy fact that these sartorial devotees were actually smoking said pipes and cigars.
These individuals, acutely attuned to image and their own expression of style, have high regard for pipe and cigar smoking and demonstrate how well these align with a gentleman’s style. For many years, smoking was absolutely considered a sophisticated activity because it went hand in hand with style, individuality and freedom of self expression.
Given all of the above, a column on gentleman’s style seems quite timely.
What is style?
I believe that everyone has a sense of style. Some are more developed and clearly expressed than others, but we all have it. And, it can be enhanced and refined when one takes an interest. Just as in music and art, there are rules, guidelines and principles of style that can be learned and followed. A person developing their style, having mastered these principles, may then reinterpret them in ways that create a unique personal style. Look at the author Tom Wolfe, the actor George Clooney and star Frank Sinatra.
Each succeeded quite well in expressing their tastes and sensibilities while simultaneously defining themselves to the world. Tom Wolfe is formal and refined, but not too serious about it, hence; the white suits. George Clooney is subdued, elegant and casual all at the same time. And Sinatra? Well, Frank was just cool. Period. Three very different men presenting three very different styles, but gentleman all.
Fashion vs. Style
"Fashion fades, style is eternal." – Yves St. Laurent
The terms "fashion" and "style" are frequently used interchangeably. They are not the same. One can purchase fashion. Style is crafted by the individual and cannot be bought or hired. A great Harris Tweed sport coat may be purchased from Brooks Bros. and you have fashion. Style is choosing the pocket square that perfectly accents your tie and also picks up the subtle tones in the coat’s weave.
Gentlemanly style is when you, unbidden, slip that coat around your lady’s shoulders because you noticed she was cold. An important aspect of gentlemanly style is the consideration of others.
Judging a book by it’s cover
"You only get one chance to make a first impression."
It has been shown that the vast majority of information we take in during face to face communication is visual. Style is a subtle and often powerful element in that communication. In case you were wondering why you should give a damn about style, there’s your answer.
Our focus here
"Looking good isn’t self-importance, it’s self respect." – Charles Hix
A gentleman’s style is expressed in his choice and style of garments, but it also includes footwear, grooming, the cars we drive and even the pipes we smoke.
Style also extends to our choices about entertaining, the sports we play, TV, movies, music and so on.
The focus here will generally be sartorial concerns, as there is plenty to cover.
We are not only concerned with the wardrobe, but with how to wear, care for and preserve fine garments and footwear. There is also where and how to purchase pieces, what looks well with what, proper attire for special occasions, how to judge fit, what elements make a good shirt or suit, the value of a good tailor, and even esoteric concerns such as what pipe shapes look well with your face.
When timely and appropriate we will no doubt look at fine liquors, elegant dining, watches and jewelry, and perhaps more kinetic subjects like fishing, performance driving and the shooting sports.
We will also work to fit in a useful tip in each column so you always come away with information that is practical and proven.
Your comments and questions are invited and will be appreciated.
The Gentleman Smoker’s tip:
Spring is on the way before long, so now is the time to think about storing your woolen garments. If you retire the heaviest items first and as the weather warms continue to the lighter ones, you can avoid the sticker shock at the dry cleaner in June. Try this: immediately after cleaning, store the garment in a large and heavy zip lock type plastic bag like the ones for storing pillows and blankets. If they are clean and zipped up airtight you can forget about moths destroying your favorite herringbone tweed trousers. Do not use vacuum “space saving” bags, as you may damage the construction of jackets and set in God awful wrinkles.
Links:
www.gentlemansgazette.com
www.putthison.com
www.parisiangentleman.com
Credits:
Photos of Steve Morrisette by Steve Morrisette
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Steve Morrisette is an artisan pipe maker, relentlessly snappy dresser, and self-confessed Virginia gentleman. He makes artisan pipes for discerning collectors, and scours the internet and shops of all types seeking information and fine garments, hats, watches, shoes, and jewelry – anything related to the gentleman’s lifestyle. Steve also spent several decades as a working drummer and photographer/photojournalist. You can find his pipes at www.smpipes.com, and catch his style photos and latest pipes on Facebook and Instagram. |
Written by Kevin Godbee
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When I first started with the pipe as a quirky and precocious teen, the only tutelage I had at my disposal were scenes from old movies in which a well dressed chap would stick his pipe into a pouch, scoop tobacco into the bowl and press it down unceremoniously with his thumb. Then, with great flourish, he’d strike a match and light the thing with all manner of cinematic excess, puffing up vast clouds of smoke falling just short of completely obscuring his visage. While it may look good on film, it’s a terrible approach to actually enjoying the thing. Somehow, though, this “technique” seems to have survived in the contemporary vernacular, at least to some extent, even with bit-loads of information handily at our fingertips that should dissuade us from the practice. But, at the time, this misguided approach was all I had; it’s no wonder my early days of puffing were fraught with difficult lighting, harsh, bitter smokes and tongue bite, all culminating in a fireproof mass of ye old soggy dottle in the bottom of the bowl. Ultimately, the resulting frustration made me give up the pipe, at least for a while. While the idea of it was still very appealing, the practice of it was not. It wasn’t until a few years later when, still full of curiosity and romantic notions of pipe smoking, I wandered into a real tobacconist’s shop, and learned my “method” was a long way from the techniques that would bring me to any sort of pipe smoking bliss. So, after my poor start, and under the guidance of someone who actually seemed to know how to do it right, I was given the opportunity to approach the process anew, this time with much greater success. It was only because I was both perseverent, and fortunate to have a local shop staffed with knowledgeable people, that I’ve been able to enjoy the experience ever since. At least mostly… How many fledgeling pipe smokers have simply given up on an enjoyable pastime because of similar early mis-starts? Fortunately, today, it’s not hard to find helpful guidance at the press of a key or ten. But, at the same time, not all roads lead to Valhalla, and sometimes the advice offered might well be labeled with, “Here be dragons.” The other day, I came across a short video on-line in which a well-meaning tobacconist suggested packing a bowl of an “English” mixture “nice and tight.” Perhaps somewhat ironically, I was smoking, or trying to smoke a bowl that I’d filled on auto-pilot, packed too tightly, and not only was having the devil of a time trying to keep it lit, I really wasn’t enjoying the acrid smoke the tobacco issued during the brief periods in which it was actually burning. “No, no, NO!” I found myself muttering at my pipe, and at the figure on the screen, my protests joined by the guttural growling noises that sometimes accompany my discontent. Defiantly, I grabbed a pipe nail, shoveled out the dense, asbestos-like clog from the bowl, swabbed out the shank with a pipe cleaner, more out of habit than need since I hadn’t actually smoked enough of the mass to foul the shank, and started over, this time paying proper attention to what I was doing. (For as long as I’ve been doing this, I still screw it all up sometimes.) Much better. This got me thinking about a couple things that are so important to the maximal enjoyment of our pipes, yet not often enough discussed, namely how different tobaccos respond to variations in filling density, and moisture content; two separate but related parameters. Once I’d been shown the proper way to fill the bowl, or at least a proper way, everything had changed for me. I also began drying my tobacco down as a matter of course. Suddenly, there was greater cooperation between leaf and flame, the smoke was rich and flavorful, and it burned mostly to the bottom of the bowl with few relights. Given that, at the time, I smoked latakia mixtures almost exclusively, there didn’t seem to be a reason to explore beyond my “new” approach. It wasn’t until my attention turned in the direction of Virginia blends that I had to look a bit deeper. The same technique that worked so well for me with latakia mixtures resulted in bland, and often harsh smokes with Virginias. I attributed this to the tobaccos, convincing myself that I just didn’t like the stuff. At one of our pipe club meetings, I was talking with a friend who smoked Three Nuns exclusively. When he offered me a bowl. I thanked him, and told him that I just didn’t seem to get along well with Virginias, that they weren’t for me. “Maybe it’s the way you pack them. Here, let me fill your pipe for you.” I watched as he rubbed out a few coins to fine ribbons, moister than I was then accustomed to, and filled the bowl carefully in stages, pressing it tighter than I would have. Prepared for a nightmare, I was instead treated to a pipe dream. The tobacco smoldered slowly and almost continuously, delivering a rich, cool, sweet and delicious smoke. After that, I spent some time exploring the impact of these two variables, moisture content and packing density, on different mixtures and blends, always with similar results. Latakia mixtures, and to a lesser extent, those with a high percentage of oriental leaf, taste and smoke better when they’re on the dry side and the bowl is filled loosely, while Virginia blends tend to work best with a little more moisture and a denser fill. Burleys seem to work best somewhere in between, except for cube-cuts, which don’t like to be packed with much pressure at all. (Gravity fill, tap the bowl to settle the cubes. Repeat until full.) For such a simple act, pipe smoking is filled with undefined complexities! The point behind all this? Often […]
Steve Morisette is the consummate gentleman, who demonstrates both visually and verbally that a gentleman should be attired with the proper pipe to exemplify sartorial elegance. It isn’t a matter of how much you spend on clothing–one can drop a bundle and still look like a slob. Thank you, Steve, for a simple and elegant introduction to what I hope will be a long-running, and well heeded series.
Steve,
You are the epitome of the well attired and personable gentleman. I am always impressed by your dapper style and friendly conversation at the pipe shows when I see you. Not to mention the fantastic pipes that you craft. Good luck with this new column, I look forward to more gemtlemanly recommendations befitting our hobby.
Great article, I am looking forward to the future contributions.
From the article: “During these same times men (and women ) were far more attentive to the proprieties that expressed respect and grace in social interactions. This respect shown in civil discourse was echoed in a gentleman’s ( and lady’s ) style and dress as well.”
Amen!
I distinctly remember in the early sixties, boarding a plane the people dressed nicely, and social graces were on full display for my young eyes…fast forward to the ensuing years, I have seen everything from a woman finger flossing toe jam onto the terminal seats, and a slob in a homemade muscle shirt, armpit hair tufted out, smelling like a sweaty mule shoulder to shoulder with me on a plane.
Earlier this year in an airport, I saw an older couple that made me feel like I was transported back in time, he was dressed very much like Mr. Morisette, his wife was equal in her appearance, but it was more than that also…it was how they carried themselves, and interacted with their fellow man…they looked far superior in class to those around them with no ostentatious air about them.
On a side-note, it would be nice to return to the day when women actually looked like ladies, and tramp-stamps protruding from low rise pants were a thing of the past, but that horse has left the barn I am afraid.
Great article.
I remember when everything changed in the 60’s. At first it was great to be so casual, but like everything else, too much of a good thing gets old.
The other day I saw a women in pajammas at the grocery store . . . this reflects the sad state of society on a whole.
Another great article of which I am excitedly waiting more installments of.
I have to agree, society has definitely lost the refinement it had up until the 60s. The days when every man had a suit and tie matched with a nice fedora/bowler hat. Women wore a dress practically every day.
I’ll say this about my style, people usually ask me if I’m heading out for a job interview lol. I typically head out in a pair of dark wash jeans, an untucked button up dress shirt, some loafers, and usually a fedora. Sometimes I’ll accent it with an unbuttoned vest. I try to look like a gentleman as much as I act like one.
I’m glad the world is casual. Myself? I wear ties every day, jackets, cuff links, the whole bit. No big deal. However, if everyone else was doing it, it would be no big deal, and I’d be the guy driving around town with a tacky freak’n baseball cap and no shirt on, lol.
Steve;
Great opening article. I look forward to your following submissions.
Regards
BB
Excellent article Steve – thanks! I’m really looking forward to future pieces. I’m a middle-aged Englishman who works in the City of London, so I also dress every day in the uniform of suit, tie, cuff links, subtly personalised to my taste. I like to think that I dress well when casual – tweeds &c. – but I’m very open to new ideas. I’m really interested in seeing the American and international themes; the Italian show content was great and I love what Gianni Fontana is wearing. Particularly telling are the comments on manners and the way we treat others. A number of us work to maintain the spirit and practice of English behaviour, but the masses are happier to behave like slobs. A real shame. Good luck to you Steve and well done!
I would love to dress the “Dapper Don”, sadly where I work it never fails that when I wear something nice I end up on a job site and its ruined!
I wish to thank you for your excellent article. Self-respect is important; it has sadly all too often been eroded away by cultural fads and pressures. I am not at all against casual wear. In the house and around the garden I dress accordingly; but I do like to wear shirt, jacket and tie with decent shoes. Part of my upbringing when you weren’t allowed out of the house unless you were smart enough to do so! Regarding the pyjama person, well that is all too common in areas near where I live in the UK! I will not condemn them, only to wish for a wiser and wider view of what passes for acceptable peer smartness.
Here’s to gentlemanly dress sense! Many thanks for an engaging and inspiring viewpoint and looking forward to more articles.
I will wear my jacket tomorrow with pride!
G.
Though, a non-clothes horse myself I look forward to more articles in this series.
Thank you to all for your very kind reception and most welcome comments. I eagerly look forward to next month’s column. Please know that you are welcome to ask questions of me or make suggestions. All pertinent input is welcomed and desired. If you feel inclined, please tell your friends and pipe clubs about ” the Gentleman Smoker ” column. As we build interest and participation through the comment section, perhaps we can add a Gentleman Smoker sub-forum. My best to all,
Steve Morrisette
the Gentleman Smoker
Without being formal, it’s still been possible to dress with a sense of style. I wear fedoras, long coats, and lots of dress shirts- some rather bright, and others more subtle- none of which I tuck in.
But there’s been an abandonment of anything classic- in favor of synthetics and “active-wear”. T-shirts. Collars have been abandoned on shirts, jackets etc. The cult of youth has given us the desire for people to wear as little as possible- so we seen the abandonment of coats and even jackets… I’d like to hear some of these pompously youthful idiots try to tell me they aren’t cold! L Ron Hubbard created this trend in California(where else) is my guess.
The result is frightfully dull clothing, and the idea that men wear nothing more than basketball shorts, flip-flops and ball caps. What’s funny when you see these slobs- and their girlfriends wear all this makeup and actually do spend a lot of time trying to look good- very incongruous! We now live in an age when if a man actually tries to look nice, he’s made to feel suspicious of being less than manly.
Perverse, but all too real. These are my observations- mostly of Arizona; it’s not quite that bad elsewhere.
I’ve always adhered to the maxim that fashion can be bought, while style one must possess. Looking forward to the next installment Steve.