Shiny Vulcanite Stems?

[whsergent]

I have been using the oxyclean/ magic eraser method to remove oxidation, which leaves a not very shiny matte sort of finish to the stem. I would like to get some shine / coating on the stem to protect it.

Iirc i used to use a carnuba wax compound and briar pipe wipe, which isnt made any longer i dont think, but what do you all recommend for shining up a vulcanite stem and giving it some protective coating after doing the oxyclean/ magic eraser routine?

 

[BROBS]

I polish them with a miracle polishing cloth with coconut oil and then coat them with halcyon 2 wax.

 

[sablebrush52]

Some folks use Barkeeper's Friend. Others use toothpaste. Still others us a combination of techniques. Generally I use micromesh pads to get a high gloss surface and coat with Halcyon or Paragon wax. When the stem area around the bite zone begins to dull I'll use some Simichrome metal polish to revive the gloss, and rewax.

 

[dmcmtk]

Wet sand with wet/dry sandpaper 600>1200>2000. Sandpaper wrapped around inexspensive nail files. I use a microfber cloth for final polishing. Sometimetime use some wax, Halcyon/Paragon. All done by hand. A very instructive video to watch.

 

[logs]

I believe that a hideous green patina on an overused vulcanite stem is to be considered a badge of honor. Probably just me though.

 

[Chasing Embers]

A lighter and a wet paper towel to remove the oxidation then thumb buffing with toothpaste to make it a black mirror.

 

[dino]

If it's not green, I use Flitz polish and finish with Obsidian oil.
If it's green, I start with Magic Eraser, then Flitz, then Obsidian.

 

[Chasing Embers]

Flitz polish

Which Flitz polish?

 

[vates]

A lighter and a wet paper towel to remove the oxidation then thumb buffing with toothpaste to make it a black mirror.

View attachment 15163

I read here and there about the lighter-and-towel method but tried it with no visible results. Is there a youtube-video of the whole process somewhere?

 

[Chasing Embers]

Is there a youtube-video of the whole process somewhere?

Only an article on reborn pipes.

 

[vates]

Yep, seen it. Obviously, I'm doing something wrong. The vulcanite is just heating up with no effect on the oxidation.

 

[ssjones]

Yep, seen it. Obviously, I'm doing something wrong. The vulcanite is just heating up with no effect on the oxidation.

I've not had any success using a lighter to remove oxidation.

As dmcmtk points out, there's no substitute for removing oxidation via increasingly higher grades of wet sand paper. I go up to 2,000, then 8,000 and 12,000 grade micromesh. Then buff with White Diamond and then with Meguiars plastic polish.

Remember - "Polishing" is removing scratches. The less scratches, the better the shine (and on a pipe, the oxidation has to be removed). Each grade of sandpaper leaves larger scratches that have to be removed. 12,000 grade micromesh removes scratches not visible to the naked eye, but you must go thru the paper progress to get there.

Any wax product will not polish, only protect.

 

[BROBS]

What I’m saying is that is way past in grit where pipemakers go when they originally made the stem. So I don’t understand going up that high in grit before polishing? Like where did this idea come from?

 

[ssjones]

Creating a new stem, from a new piece of vulcanized rod, is way different than removing oxidation from an old stem. For my restorations, that is simply the process that I've developed.

 

[cosmicfolklore]

So I don’t understand going up that high in grit before polishing? Like where did this idea come from?

The idea comes from removing as little material as possible overall. Using micro mesh or some other sanding product in variation from low to high only ever removes as much material as gets gouged in the lower grit beginning. If you skip all of this and jump to the polish, you have to hold the stem for longer under the wheel, which deforms the original shaping of the stem... sure, the amount is still small, but enough so that after a few polishes like this, the stem is no longer true to the maker's intent.

When you do most of the sanding up to a high polish by hand, you are more able to make sure that you keep the removal of material consistent, then just hitting it briefly with the polishing wheel gives you more control and consistency.

But, it's your pipe... feel free to do what you want. No one is telling someone else what to do, but merely reporting what they do.

If someone wants to polish their pipes with gerbil droppings, I say go ahead... but please post pictures for our entertainment.

Me, I just try to hit my stems briefly with a polishing cloth before racking them to prevent ever having to do very many of these more evasive techniques. YMMV

 

[patiobum]

I use buffing wheels. one with carnauba wax and one dry.

 

[cosmicfolklore]

If someone wants to polish their pipes with gerbil droppings, I say go ahead...

I am awaiting the gerbil activists to post what an asshole I am for demanding that we all misuse their droppings... I will apologize in advance to all gerbil lovers and respecters of gerbil droppings. It was merely a joke.

 

[PaulTheScandinavian]

I'm noticing that after final buff on the wheel with white diamond and even more with Meguriar plastic polish there is are still perceptible mico scatches left on the stem,but this is only when observing through the magnifying glass now I wonder how one can get them to the factory-like luster with total zero scratches on the surface, I have on hand brown,blue, white,(creme color) buffing bars, cotton wheels both stitched and unstitched, I have Meguriar plastic polishes, microcrystal waxes , Halicon&Paragon waxes, Hard Carnaubas , I'd think this would be enough,,lol

 

[dino]

Which Flitz polish?

 

[jpmcwjr]

I simply use mineral oil after a scrub with kitchen scrubbing sponge.

Here're a bunch of pipes after the hot water rinse and scrub of stem and rim: