Good
I polish my non smooth pipes with a horse hair brush.
Would work fine for your pipe with the porous top .
Quest for a pipe polish
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I polish my non smooth pipes with a horse hair brush.
Would work fine for your pipe with the porous top .
I didn't know anyone still used those (other than me!)Good
I polish my non smooth pipes with a horse hair brush.
Would work fine for your pipe with the porous top .
Well, that makes two of us ( and the ones who dare come out of the closet after reading this post ).I didn't know anyone still used those (other than me!)
Thank you George, appreciated. Are you ( in a positive manner ) familair with it ?
Yes.
Here's the rundown:
George,
Could this be of similar quality ?
Wachs Mikrokristallin LMP Platte
Microcrystalline wax LMP is developed as an alternative to the well-known Shellwax LMP and base wax is real and is used as a casting wax,
www.siliconesandmore.com
George,
Could this be of similar quality ?
Wachs Mikrokristallin LMP Platte
Microcrystalline wax LMP is developed as an alternative to the well-known Shellwax LMP and base wax is real and is used as a casting wax,
I have zero understanding or knowledge about any of this wax business beyond having taken a shot in the dark and scored a bullseye. There could be the presence or lack of ingredients in other formulations that would give a different result.
George,
This Dutch firm produces similar waxes as a cheaper alternative for the very expensive
Shell ( no pun intended ) micro. waxes. I'll call them and ask for a sampler, see if they'll humour me.
Anyway, the technical data sheets show the LMP wax is more or less similar to the ones we posted.
Aprox. same melting point etc. The HMP has a somewhat higher melting point.
www.paramelt.com
You discovered something revolutionary that might turn our little pipe community totally upside down
This Dutch firm produces similar waxes as a cheaper alternative for the very expensive
Shell ( no pun intended ) micro. waxes. I'll call them and ask for a sampler, see if they'll humour me.
Anyway, the technical data sheets show the LMP wax is more or less similar to the ones we posted.
Aprox. same melting point etc. The HMP has a somewhat higher melting point.
Paramelt®LMP and HMP microcrystalline waxes | Paramelt
Our microwaxes are successfully qualified as alternative to the well-know Shell LMP and HMP based on similar performance characteristics.
www.paramelt.com
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Renaissance Wax works ! for porous pipes ! (Microcrystaline wax) I just received some Renaissance Wax I bought off ebay ($25.00 for 7 ozs). I used it on my Savinelli Erica Fiamma 128 Billiard per directions and it worked well. Shined the pipe up and it is much cooler to the touch when smoking.
I bought it for my Barontini 1/2 spigot which has 3 areas of very porous briar along some fine line grain - too hot to touch even when smoking slowly. I mean scalding hot where you drop the pipe and burn your fingers because of the heat coming out of the pipe. The varnish had bubbled and I sanded the top of the pipe. The directions say to apply and wait 10-15 minutes then buff. That didn't work or didn't appear to work. I applied a second light coat and let the pipe sit overnight ... in the morning the wax had dried to the white haze described in directions. I buffed it by hand using a buffing pad for a drill. I smoked a bowl of 1/3rd bowl of Lane 1-Q smoked fast and hot --- the pipe got no warmer than any other pipe I have...in fact it only got slightly warm in those areas. It also seemed to lighten the briar a shade lighter but that may be an optical illusion.
So, it appears to work to seal in porous briar and prevent the bowl from getting too hot to touch. I definitely recommend it for any porous briar and wouldn't bother with the other waxes which are great for regular pipes but not great for really porous pipes (they melt off).
It is reputed to be the finest wax in the world and I believe it. Also it has a slight petroleum smell when applying but that dissipates and leaves no smell on the pipe.
I may do a post with some before and after pictures in a separate post. Buy some anyway as it can be used on almost any material (metal, wood, paint, cars, plastic, photos, cloth, etc.). It is also removable with mineral spirits without any damage to underlying material per pamphlet.
I bought it for my Barontini 1/2 spigot which has 3 areas of very porous briar along some fine line grain - too hot to touch even when smoking slowly. I mean scalding hot where you drop the pipe and burn your fingers because of the heat coming out of the pipe. The varnish had bubbled and I sanded the top of the pipe. The directions say to apply and wait 10-15 minutes then buff. That didn't work or didn't appear to work. I applied a second light coat and let the pipe sit overnight ... in the morning the wax had dried to the white haze described in directions. I buffed it by hand using a buffing pad for a drill. I smoked a bowl of 1/3rd bowl of Lane 1-Q smoked fast and hot --- the pipe got no warmer than any other pipe I have...in fact it only got slightly warm in those areas. It also seemed to lighten the briar a shade lighter but that may be an optical illusion.
So, it appears to work to seal in porous briar and prevent the bowl from getting too hot to touch. I definitely recommend it for any porous briar and wouldn't bother with the other waxes which are great for regular pipes but not great for really porous pipes (they melt off).
It is reputed to be the finest wax in the world and I believe it. Also it has a slight petroleum smell when applying but that dissipates and leaves no smell on the pipe.
I may do a post with some before and after pictures in a separate post. Buy some anyway as it can be used on almost any material (metal, wood, paint, cars, plastic, photos, cloth, etc.). It is also removable with mineral spirits without any damage to underlying material per pamphlet.
Haha, still use them on dress shoes!I didn't know anyone still used those (other than me!)
Still have a few from my Infantry days. But it’s used for black polish not neutral. Only use neutral on my cowboy boots and a few other items.I didn't know anyone still used those (other than me!)
I have one for each - black then brown and neutral; and a third that I believe was made by my great grandfather but used for other clean buffing. It has a dried leather cover over a block of wood secured by brass tacks or nails; hair is black. Clearly not commercially made but still of exceptional quality to have lasted this long - if you know what I mean. I remember my grandfather using it when I was little.
He seemed very upset (disappointed not angry) once when I showed up with scuffed shoe tips and shined my shoes and taught me how to do it at same time --- ( in my defense I was only 4 or 5 yrs old). But I never showed up again with scuffed shoes !!
There's two for my pipe refurbishing (apart from polishing the waxed briar they're excellent for cleaning non smooth pipes without ruining the stain it with warm water etc. ) one for my riding boots, iconic Prada shoes etc. and one to throw at my neighbours head when see starts complaining about the leaves falling from our shrubs and trees in fall. We live one spit away from
the woods, can almost touch it from our living room. endless shades of wonderful colours throught the entire year.
A next time I'll sabotage her broomstick, it will keep her grounded.
the woods, can almost touch it from our living room. endless shades of wonderful colours throught the entire year.
A next time I'll sabotage her broomstick, it will keep her grounded.
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Tell her "Its Climate Change. It effects us all. The Government is working on it"
As a follow up, I used renaissance wax on my Barontini 1/2 spigot pipe several times. I had stripped the varnish from the top portion of the pipe leaving it raw briar. Following the directions on the can, I found I was polishing the wax off the pipe. I remembered what @sablebrush52 had written that he uses his hands to rub/shine the wax onto the pipe. So I waxed the pipe and let it sit for 24 hours. Then instead of using a cloth to wipe the pipe I just used my fingers lightly. I then smoked the pipe, periodically wiping off any oils. The hard wax surface remains and has a bit of shine to it. On raw briar, wait longer then rub the wax in with your hands. It works much better.
No fancy wax for me the natural oil from the side of the nose followed by a good rub on my jeans makes the wood look new again.