Pipe Buffing Wheel

[GentlemanJames]

Good Morning Gentlemen,

I'm new to the world of pipe collecting, but I've acquired a nice starting collection (see photo attached). I have the basic maintenance tools (pipe cleaners, halcyon II and paragon wax, reamer, etc.). Could anyone recommend a good buffing wheel setup? Should I invest in a bench-top buffer?

I love this hobby, and I want to eventually try my hand at making my own briar pipe. I'm no artist, but I think it would be a fun challenge. My father always told me the importance of having the right tool for the job. If anyone knows of any tools necessary for this endeavor, I'd appreciate that advice too. Figured I'd ask the experts...

As always ~ I appreciate everyone's thoughts.

AJ

 

[sablebrush52]

With Halcyon and Paragon waxes you don't need a buffer. That's the point of using them. You can follow the directions and get a pretty decent shine, or you can apply a tiny amount to your fingertips, spread a very thin coating them rub in the palms and fingers of your hands while it sets up and dries, and get a really brilliant shine that's as good as a buffer.

Buffers don't kill pipes, people using buffers kill pipes. That's my only gripe against the use of buffers, the softened lumps of wood caused by incompetent and overzealous buffing. Buffing isn't exactly rocket science, and I used buffers daily for more than a decade when I was a professional jewelry restorer. But judging from the pipes I've seen over the decades, understanding the proper use of a buffer clearly exceeds the intellectual capacity of a vast proportion of pipe smoking population.

 

[GentlemanJames]

I appreciate your advice, sablebrush.

I can stick with hand buffing my pipes with a rag and the Halcyon and Paragon. Just want to make sure I'm keeping my pipes in tip-top shape.

Thank you!

AJ

 

[BROBS]

I appreciate your advice, sablebrush.

I can stick with hand buffing my pipes with a rag and the Halcyon and Paragon. Just want to make sure I'm keeping my pipes in tip-top shape.

Thank you!

AJ

the buffer you will need for oxidized stems imo.. not to wax the pipe.
if you do get one.. it needs to be low speed. ~1500 RPM

a problem a lot of people have is that they use a regular grinder or buffer which is usually over 3000 RPM. You can see how that would go bad quickly.

but I use my buffing wheel on every stem of every vulcanite pipe I own and haven't damaged a one. If you are careful a low speed one is fine. Just never let the wheel go against a sharp edge or it will round it. As long as you are mindful of this and start on a pipe you don't care too much about you should be fine.

The only thing I use on it is white rouge (sometimes called white diamond).
The white polishing compound bars.
and a bare buffing wheel to raise shine but I usually use a polishing cloth and microfiber to finish because it gives an even more mirror-like shine.

 

[GentlemanJames]

the buffer you will need for oxidized stems imo.. not to wax the pipe.
if you do get one.. it needs to be low speed. ~1500 RPM

a problem a lot of people have is that they use a regular grinder or buffer which is usually over 3000 RPM. You can see how that would go bad quickly.

but I use my buffing wheel on every stem of every vulcanite pipe I own and haven't damaged a one. If you are careful a low speed one is fine. Just never let the wheel go against a sharp edge or it will round it. As long as you are mindful of this and start on a pipe you don't care too much about you should be fine.

The only thing I use on it is white rouge (sometimes called white diamond).
The white polishing compound bars.
and a bare buffing wheel to raise shine but I usually use a polishing cloth and microfiber to finish because it gives an even more mirror-like shine.

Thanks, BROBS. Good info there. Maybe somewhere down the road I’ll play with buffing a stem. I was more concerned with the briar, which I think I’ll continue to hand polish. Have you ever tried to make your own pipe from a block of briar? That seems like it could be a fun challenge.

 

[BROBS]

Thanks, BROBS. Good info there. Maybe somewhere down the road I’ll play with buffing a stem. I was more concerned with the briar, which I think I’ll continue to hand polish. Have you ever tried to make your own pipe from a block of briar? That seems like it could be a fun challenge.

Yes!

Hobby Block Plateau Poker ♦️ ♠️ ♥️ ♣️ :: Make Your Own Pipe Project

1st attempt at fully carving a pipe Sourced a different stem and fit it. whatcha think? ?

pipesmagazine.com

 

[BROBS]

Thanks, BROBS. Good info there. Maybe somewhere down the road I’ll play with buffing a stem. I was more concerned with the briar, which I think I’ll continue to hand polish. Have you ever tried to make your own pipe from a block of briar? That seems like it could be a fun challenge.

For the briar if it doesn’t need buffed the paragon/halcyon should be perfect.

 

[lawdogspipes]

sablebrush52 Nailed it.

"Buffers don't kill pipes, people using buffers kill pipes."

I could not agree more, brother.

 

[peregrinus]

exceeds the intellectual capacity of a vast proportion of pipe smoking population.

This may be a bit harsh, I’d known coupal pipe smokers who wasn’t all ignarent.

@sablebrush52 has a good point however, and it’s that there really is a technique to master. If you are generally handy you can learn (over time) but start with some pipes you don’t care much about because there will be blood and tears.

 

[GentlemanJames]

Yes!

Hobby Block Plateau Poker ♦️ ♠️ ♥️ ♣️ :: Make Your Own Pipe Project

1st attempt at fully carving a pipe Sourced a different stem and fit it. whatcha think? ?

pipesmagazine.com

That's an awesome self-made pipe! Great work, BROBS. Could I ask where you sourced your briar and stem? Also, I think I can manage the cutting / drilling / carving, but I have no idea how to go about finishing the pipe. Would you be willing to share the process you used to stain the pipe and finish the chamber? What did you coat the chamber with to protect the briar?

Thanks for sharing! I'm excited to try my hand at this. Probably won't be as nice looking as the one you made (I don't have a ton of woodworking experience), but it will still be fun.

Have a good day, my friend.

AJ

 

[GentlemanJames]

This may be a bit harsh, I’d known coupal pipe smokers who wasn’t all ignarent.

@sablebrush52 has a good point however, and it’s that there really is a technique to master. If you are generally handy you can learn (over time) but start with some pipes you don’t care much about because there will be blood and tears.

Agreed. I've learned there's an art to everything, peregrinus. sablebrush had good advice. His presentation of that advice was a little rough around the edges, but the advice was still appreciated and sound. I'm just a beginner with a lot to learn, trying to give a hobby that I love the proper respect it deserves by doing things correctly. I'm glad I stumbled upon this platform which has so many people who share my love for pipes, and are so eager to help me make those correct decisions!

 

[briarbuck]

Early on I went to Home Depot and got a regular buffer. 5,000 rpm's of fun. Still use it occasionally. It's like riding a bucking Bronco and can launch a pipe with tremendous velocity across my garage .

 

[BROBS]

Agreed. I've learned there's an art to everything, peregrinus. sablebrush had good advice. His presentation of that advice was a little rough around the edges, but the advice was still appreciated and sound. I'm just a beginner with a lot to learn, trying to give a hobby that I love the proper respect it deserves by doing things correctly. I'm glad I stumbled upon this platform which has so many people who share my love for pipes, and are so eager to help me make those correct decisions!

SABLEBRUSH JUST WANTS YOU TO HAVE GREEN BAD TASTING STEMS

 

[sablebrush52]

SABLEBRUSH JUST WANTS YOU TO HAVE GREEN BAD TASTING STEMS

Now, now, you know better. There are many ways to clean a stem. A buffer is faster, easier, and more destructive, but a set of micromesh pads will get me there with less damage to the stem button or facets if the stem is fancy design. And don't forget to scrub out that airway.

 

[tbradsim1]

For the Gentleman who only wants a gentle buff, 50$ on EBay.

 

[PaulTheScandinavian]

Some of my estate pipes have finish faded to a degree that no wax /buffer will provide with a long-lasting shine, for instance, take this Dunhill Root briar,I can get it polished up but after a bowlful, it's long gone, but it is what it is and I can live with it

 

[BROBS]

Now, now, you know better. There are many ways to clean a stem. A buffer is faster, easier, and more destructive, but a set of micromesh pads will get me there with less damage to the stem button or facets if the stem is fancy design. And don't forget to scrub out that airway.

Just teasin

 

[BROBS]

View attachment 28205
For the Gentleman who only wants a gentle buff, 50$ on EBay.

Then after my pipes I do my Louboutin’s.

 

[craiginthecorn]

Regarding wheel choice, ultimately, you need to pay close attention to the speed of the perimeter of the wheel because that's what you use for buffing. If it's too fast, you are more likely to create excess heat and friction, potentially damaging your pipe.

BROBS already mentioned a slow speed 1500 RPM buffer (sound advice), but that's only half of the equation. One must also consider the size of the wheel.

4" wheel at 1500: 1571'/sec
6" wheel at 1500: 2356'/sec
8" wheel at 1500: 3142'/sec
4" wheel at 3450: 3613'/sec
6" wheel at 3450: 5419'/sec
8" wheel at 3450: 7226'/sec

Also, don't forget about dressing your wheel. Initially, this is important because most wheels don't come out of the factory perfectly balanced. The hole could be slightly off-center, for example. This will cause vibration and poorer buffing performance. This becomes more important as the size of the wheel increases. The slightest imbalance in a 10" wheel is quite noticeable, even at 800 RPM. Be aware that dressing a new wheel creates a snowstorm of lint. Best done outside wearing something you don't mind covered in lint.

Also, consider dust collection if you do any volume of buffing as the compounds will aerosolize and are not healthy to breathe.

 

[briarbuck]

Regarding wheel choice, ultimately, you need to pay close attention to the speed of the perimeter of the wheel because that's what you use for buffing. If it's too fast, you are more likely to create excess heat and friction, potentially damaging your pipe.

BROBS already mentioned a slow speed 1500 RPM buffer (sound advice), but that's only half of the equation. One must also consider the size of the wheel.

4" wheel at 1500: 1571'/sec
6" wheel at 1500: 2356'/sec
8" wheel at 1500: 3142'/sec
4" wheel at 3450: 3613'/sec
6" wheel at 3450: 5419'/sec
8" wheel at 3450: 7226'/sec

Also, don't forget about dressing your wheel. Initially, this is important because most wheels don't come out of the factory perfectly balanced. The hole could be slightly off-center, for example. This will cause vibration and poorer buffing performance. This becomes more important as the size of the wheel increases. The slightest imbalance in a 10" wheel is quite noticeable, even at 800 RPM. Be aware that dressing a new wheel creates a snowstorm of lint. Best done outside wearing something you don't mind covered in lint.

Also, consider dust collection if you do any volume of buffing as the compounds will aerosolize and are not healthy to breathe.

I was not kidding about the 5000 RPM's. I was running an 8" inch wheel. I think one pipe may have actually broken the speed of sound before it hit the wall.