@ Nevadablue "Joe, please show us how to repair the beadlines like you did."
Dave G's examples are excellent. The only details I'll add are these:
I make the form from plastic bottles (bleach, fabric softener, etc.)...whichever will render the same thickness as the slot on the pipe being repaired. I don't have an image handy, so I drew what the form looks like:
You need to be sure that the curve of the form is exactly the same as the curve of the bead you're repairing. I slip the form in the slot just as Dave shows. if it's the bead itself being repaired/replaced, you'll need TWO of these forms, since you'll be packing dust between the two forms to re-create the bead. It's a bit of careful work, but ask Dave or Anthony...it's also fun to do.
I do use medium CA and briar dust (dripping in the glue first) for some repairs, but more often by preference, I slip in the form, then pack in the dust first, and then carefully drip in 'thin' CA glue. The thin glue instantly soaks through all of the briar dust and bonds it to the broken bead. The thin glue dries faster and is ready for needle-filing within a minute. Either method works equally well...just wanted to share the variation.
I've used many different products, but for glue quality and price, you cannot beat these guys:
Artistic & Custom Woodturning - 800-894-8123 - you'll talk with Ed, or his wife...extremely helpful folks. The price that I pay for a 2 oz bottle of CA (that's a LOT of glue) with Ed is the same that you'll pay for a fraction of the amount of lower quality CA / super glue at hardware stores. I get no discounts for it...but tell them Joe Mansueto sent you, because they love referral business!
If you need any further help with that particular repair, we're happy to provide more detailed direction.