Watch Out or Watch on? Pt 2.

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Grangerous

Lifer
Dec 8, 2020
3,427
14,153
East Coast USA
Great collection. A Pelagos in 39mm is my Grail watch.
The Pelagos is my latest watch and the healthiest. Watchmaker told me it’s at a 326 and keeping +4 seconds.

It’s almost comically light being my first Titanium watch. I like the sheen of the gray metal. Almost forget its on my wrist. It’s a solid choice and encourage you to obtain and enjoy yours. Same 39mm case but the bezel hangs over at 40mm, not flush with the case making it a beefier watch. Also has 21mm lug vs 20mm adding to its presence.

The reason Tudor has “won me over” are that the dimensions are nearly identical to my 1999 Submariner. So the Ranger will become my 4th (39mm) Tudor, each quite different from the other, but each wearing identically on wrist. Comfortable as a favorite pair of jeans.

Couldn’t be happier with a brand. Tudor is today the “tool watch” manufacturer that Rolex used to be.

I have no interest in what Rolex has become. Shiny ceramic status jewelry.

I do love my 5 digit Sub. It’ll remain the only Rolex in my collection.

As Rolex now embraces its ultra high luxury persona, Tudor steps in to fill the void and make us the high quality tool watches of old Rolex but with its own style. I love the snowflake hands. The French Navy requested these for visibility when diving, unlike the diminutive hands of the Submariner.
 
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Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,960
14,308
Humansville Missouri
To show I don’t always buy the Four Aces Red grade Chinese homage watches, about twenty years ago I asked my watchmaker what watch he wore outside of the shop (he sold railroad approved Seiko Quartz watches).

He opened a drawer and showed me the most beautiful little watch I’d ever seen, a 1940 Hamilton solid 14K gold Brock with a 982M movement.

A year or two later when I came in, he produced this watch, just like it. Only $300.

These were never an everyday watch. While extremely accurate and precise there is no shock protection and it’s as delicate as an eggshell. The crystal is acrylic and while they don’t shatter, they’ll stratch easily.

There’s no sealing at all. Damp and sweat and and dirt threaten it all the time it’s on your wrist.

But it was the pinnacle of style in a man’s wrist watch in 1940. The new in 1940 982 Medallion movement remains one the highest grade watch movements ever made, anywhere, at any price.

Today any new woman’s size watch is larger.

The Brock takes a 16mm strap. The size is 14/0.
 

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gubbyduffer

Can't Leave
May 25, 2021
495
1,610
Peebles, Scottish Borders
The Pelagos is my latest watch and the healthiest. Watchmaker told me it’s at a 326 and keeping +4 seconds.

It’s almost comically light being my first Titanium watch. I like the sheen of the gray metal. Almost forget its on my wrist. It’s a solid choice and encourage you to obtain and enjoy yours. Same 39mm case but the bezel hangs over at 40mm, not flush with the case making it a beefier watch. Also has 21mm lug vs 20mm adding to its presence.

The reason Tudor has “won me over” are that the dimensions are nearly identical to my 1999 Submariner. So the Ranger will become my 4th (39mm) Tudor, each quite different from the other, but each wearing identically on wrist. Comfortable as a favorite pair of jeans.

Couldn’t be happier with a brand. Tudor is today the “tool watch” manufacturer that Rolex used to be.

I have no interest in what Rolex has become. Shiny ceramic status jewelry.

I do love my 5 digit Sub. It’ll remain the only Rolex in my collection.

As Rolex now embraces its ultra high luxury persona, Tudor steps in to fill the void and make us the high quality tool watches of old Rolex but with its own style. I love the snowflake hands. The French Navy requested these for visibility when diving, unlike the diminutive hands of the Submariner.
I agree. Rolex is too caught up in luxury for my liking. Don't get me wrong, Tudor isn't cheap but to me they are almost obtainable. I like the utilitarian nature of them.
Only Rolexes I have been tempted by are vintage versions of the bottom rung Oyster Perpetual. Such as this piece of class just seen on ebay
1000016803.jpg
I also have a soft spot for an Omega Speedmaster.
 

Grangerous

Lifer
Dec 8, 2020
3,427
14,153
East Coast USA
I agree. Rolex is too caught up in luxury for my liking. Don't get me wrong, Tudor isn't cheap but to me they are almost obtainable. I like the utilitarian nature of them.
Only Rolexes I have been tempted by are vintage versions of the bottom rung Oyster Perpetual. Such as this piece of class just seen on ebay
View attachment 301120
I also have a soft spot for an Omega Speedmaster.
Rolex today has out-priced themselves from the enjoyment of their intended use. They are capable “tool” watches but, due to the extravagant cost, are painfully uncomfortable to use as tools. The fear of theft or damage prohibits enjoyment.

Now Tudor, on the other hand, is producing the Rolex “tool” watches of old. Not inexpensive, but not obscene.

This latest watch, the Ranger is a fully brushed, stainless steel field watch that I can wear, scratch, scrape and enjoy! A tank of a watch, meant to build memories.
1712371054444.jpeg
It won’t sit in a watch box or bank vault awaiting Thanksgiving, Christmas or a Wedding to see the light of day.
 

Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,960
14,308
Humansville Missouri
I buy a watch or two and year and haven’t ever sold one, but I do occasionally whittle down my hoard by giving watches away to my kids.

I’m hard to impress with a cheap watch.

Today I got in a 45mm Invicta Pro Diver “Master of the Ocean” model with a silicone strap for $30 post paid from an American seller, with 30 day return privilege.

I’m not just impressed, I’m gob smacked!

How does Invicta do this for thirty bucks?

IMG_7798.jpeg


The fit and finish and “bling” of this watch could pass for $300 instead of $30.

It came packed in a large casket style box, with warranty and a $495 price tag.

Inside is a Japanese Seiko quartz time only three hand movement.

It has an oyster style screw on back rated to 100 meters.

The crystal is “Flame Fusion” which means it’s a mineral glass crystal that’s been infused with an industrial sapphire coating so it’s both shatter and scratch resistant.

The strap is high quality silicone rubber, with stainless buckle, eight inches long.
 

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Grangerous

Lifer
Dec 8, 2020
3,427
14,153
East Coast USA
It’s amazing how our personalities align with each hobby.

I was confiding to Briar lee, offline,that those of us interested in horology find personal niches that brings us joy.

I find something I like and I don’t stray far. In other words; Burley.

I’ll share what I recently related to Briar Lee….

“Everyone in Horology finds a certain niche that brings them joy. If you’ll notice, all of my watches are clean and simple, three-hand, time-only movements, including my Sub.

Some enjoy complications. I do not. Life is complicated enough. My Seiko watches both have the day and the date. I hate that they do. I hate having to set them and reset them.

Often times, I won’t bother to even unscrew the crown on a watch I wish to wear next. I’ll simply note the time of stoppage and later pick it up at that precise hour and minute, give it shake and put it on my wrist.

This niche of mine, “time-only” watches is a joy with other benefits.

When I go to a watch website with several hundred watches offered, simply by checking the “no date” box in the filter whittles the number of watches to view down to a maybe 40-50 pieces. Then checking the case size of 39mm brings that down to few dozen!

Simplicity itself! 😂

Most every watch I enjoy most has a 39mm case. Some have bezels that extend over the case, making them wear as a 40mm. But that’s it. My niche.”

For me, of late… Tudor has been producing my personal sweet spot dimensions and I love what they’re doing. - so I’ve gone a on a bit of a binge. But my collection of 6 luxury watches is now complete. Ok. 7.
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Now if I can just get through Watches and Wonders next week…
 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,964
12,973
Covington, Louisiana
postimg.cc
Most every watch I enjoy most has a 39mm case. Some have bezels that extend over the case, making them wear as a 40mm. But that’s it. My niche.”
40 mm give or take a mm is my sweet spot. (just as I enjoy smaller pipes). It's good to see the industry move away from the 44 mm watches that wear like manhole covers.

One of my first micro-brand purchases was this Borealis Seafarer II, a well build watch with a Miyota movement. But at 44 mm, I found it far too large and moved it along. The 4000 meter rating was 3997 meters more than I ever needed to go on purpose.

Borealis_SFII_FS_01.jpg
 

Grangerous

Lifer
Dec 8, 2020
3,427
14,153
East Coast USA
40 mm give or take a mm is my sweet spot. (just as I enjoy smaller pipes). It's good to see the industry move away from the 44 mm watches that wear like manhole covers.

One of my first micro-brand purchases was this Borealis Seafarer II, a well build watch with a Miyota movement. But at 44 mm, I found it far too large and moved it along. The 4000 meter rating was 3997 meters more than I ever needed to go on purpose.

View attachment 301195
The Longines Spirit Zulu 39 is real stunner. They also offer a Titanium version, Time Only.

But the line is essentially GMT and sized at 42mm. Beautiful watches.
1712409647826.jpeg
For anyone interested in Longines, they offer lot of watch value.
 
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ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,964
12,973
Covington, Louisiana
postimg.cc
The Longines Spirit Zulu 39 is real stunner. They also offer a Titanium version, Time Only.

But the line is essentially GMT and sized at 42mm. Beautiful watches.
View attachment 301203
For anyone interested in Longines, they offer lot of watch value.
I have my Hydroconquest in 41 mm, perfect for my taste. (they do make it in 39 and 44 mm)
My Skindiver is 42 mm, I wish it were slightly smaller but love the style and simplicity.

Longines_HC_Apr-2018 (2).jpg20210224_190123.jpg
 

Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,960
14,308
Humansville Missouri
What fascinates me so much about watches, is that watch makers have used hairsprings for about four hundred years, and lever escapements for nearly three hundred years. George Washington’s watch was a useful timepiece.


IMG_7812.jpeg

For the last hundred and fifty years, ordinary people can afford watches accurate to thirty seconds a day, and better.

For the last fifty years, we can spend forty dollars and buy a quartz watch with accuracy and precision that only gimbal mounted marine chronometers can better.

For the last fifteen years, our phones use atomic time, used to regulate marine chronometers, and we can buy watches for forty bucks, that regulate themselves to atomic time radio stations.

IMG_7816.jpeg

Here’s a Statisca factoid:

The global number of smartphone users in the world is forecasted to continuously increase between 2024 and 2029 by in total 1.5 billion users (+30.6 percent). After the fifteenth consecutive increasing year, the smartphone user base is estimated to reach 6.4 billion users and therefore a new peak in 2029.

Xxxx

The future of wristwatches looks to me to be in smart wrist watches that link to smart phones.

IMG_7817.jpeg
 

Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,960
14,308
Humansville Missouri
When I’m at my farm I love to invite the Amish to my shooting range. Each Amish community sets their own rules, and the Humansville Amish allow wristwatches.

By far, the most popular everyday Amish watch for young people is the Casio FW91, often modified to take a hand sewn watch fob instead of the bracelet, which is pinned on their clothes because they do not have pockets.

IMG_7822.jpeg

But the local Amish dress up for church on Sunday.

I asked if they had Sunday watches, and many married men do, usually a small black dial Seiko 5 given to them as a wedding gift. Even the Amish have a need for a reliable time piece that doesn’t need a battery. They know every day at noon when the Humansville noon whistle blows what the precise time is. But when they have their families out, they need to carry time around with them.

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I own a 36mm black dial Seiko 5 that’s about 30 years old, and still good.

IMG_7824.jpeg

I don’t think the importance of the Seiko 5 automatic for us watch hoarders can be overstated.

That watch is the one that kicked off my watch habit.:)

Thanks to modern synthetic oils and greases Seiko has used for over fifty years, a Seiko 5 might last decades in constant daily service, or until it’s beat to death. If carefully used they’ll often last more than a lifetime. I have a used 1977 dated Seiko 5 that I ordered a new band for, still accurate.

Buying a cheap used watch is not really practical, as the cost of a service is more than a new replacement.

But why Rolex can sell a million expensive luxury mechanical watches every year, is because their customers have a taste for watches with balance wheels and mainsprings.

A Seiko 5 is a “gateway” watch.:)

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