That's called a "puzzle break". As long as you have all the pieces (and they are in good shape... not stepped on or something), and you don't mind owning a pipe with a wide band, it is fixable.
Why would it need a band at all then if the compound breaks were clean? Bands are more for cracks because you cannot get into a crack properly to fix them well. Assuming there was no missing bits of wood and a PVA glue was used (polyvinyl acetate), which is stronger than the wood itself, there was every chance that reassembled and glued, the breaks would be nearly invisible and stronger than original! No band needed.
George did an amazing job of shortening the shank and remounting the stem
I’m glad you are happy with it and it does indeed look fine, but I cannot agree that just shortening the shank was anything “amazing.”
Contrary to what they look like at any distance, repair bands are actually slightly conical. It's necessary for two primary reasons: the physics of application & mounting, and that's how most pipe shanks are also shaped (it's an artifact of stem/shank leveling). The shank on Mr. Drifter's pipe, though, had no taper at all. The only way to band it was to fabricate a parallel-sided band that would be a "slip fit", and glue it in place. For both strength and aesthetic reasons, it would also have to be countersunk.
Why would a repair band have to be any different than a regular band, which is NOT tapered? I don’t see why a properly made and countersunk band would need glued at all. And how much strength do you need just to hold a stem in such a small pipe? Done well, there would be more strength than original without the band and the joints would be so clean and natural that there would be no need to hide them.
And... the only way to make such a band would be to either cast it, jeweler-style, or chase it from a piece of sterling silver tubing. (Either option a fair project in its own right)
I didn't have the equipment for the former, tried the latter, and finally gave up. (Hammer-shaping a 1" long, oval cross-section, parallel-sided band on a circular-cross-section, tapered ring mandrel is madness, I discovered.)
There goes my no-sense detector again. Sterling silver? You went through all of that not knowing it would not work? How much are you charging anyway for all your time? $500? How can this pipe be worth all of that work just to fix a simple break? But the point here is that you obviously do not know how to make a band; if you are going to be in the pipe repair business, you need to first make a set of forms that match the stem sizes. Then you can easily shape the band material to fit the form, even hammer a design into it, trim its length to fit properly, then braze the seam together at the joint. After filing the excess metal off and polishing it properly, you will never tell where the original joint was, and tapered or straight, it can be fitted on perfectly to do the job--- no glue needed. A band should never be glued on anyway if it was made properly in the first place.
So, the backup plan was shortening the shank. Easier, but no cakewalk. Drilling accurate (i.e. axially aligned) holes in irregularly shaped objects and achieving a glide-smooth, dead-flush fit in three dimensions---with do-overs not an option---is why most pipe repairmen have gray hair, I think.
Again, maybe for you, but not for a professional with the proper tools. Nothing could be much easier than drilling an axially-aligned hole in the shortened stem if you know what you are doing. No gray hairs needed.
If you work with pipes all of the time, you should have a set of wooden vee-blocks. You insert a transfer punch onto the draw hole; in most cases that will be synonymous with the axis of the stem. You insert the punch up into the collet of your machine and tighten. You then clamp the vee blocks around the pipe in a vise, preferably a 2-stage one that can be tilted as well as rotated. Now you have your reference alignment automatically set.
You check the axis of the punch with the centerline of the stem--- if they are not already coincidental or you want to make adjustments, then you can make fine adjustments to the vise. Now, any drilling or facing you do will be perfectly square along that plane and if the end of the shank is not already orthogonal, it can be squared up using a light touch with a 4 or 6-fluted end mill. Simple as that. Perfect results, no gray hairs, and no freakin’ mystery.
I don’t mean to be a sour pill here, guys, but I get sick and tired of reading about the “mystery” and hair-raising difficulty of pipe repairs and all their difficulty when in fact, to anyone really in the know of master wood and metal crafting, this is all pretty simple stuff and I’m tired of seeing smoke (ahem) blown up people’s butts here like it was some sort of big deal! And all this from a guy who speaks to others of comic relief? Gimme a break.