I just checked this out:
http://pipesmagazine.com/members/tmb152/album
As I said before, you can't repair pipes with a milling machine. Pipe repair is entirely a hands-and-eyes activity. Your repeated implicit insistence that there is overlap does not make it so. The techniques for both could hardly be more different.
Which means that using "milling machine logic" like this when addressing a pipe repair problem results in a wrong solution every time, before work even begins:
Given that, why are you here? Are you simply a troll having a bit of fun? Do you have mental health issues? Are you former site user BillKay returned from the digital dead with a new boardname? (shudder) Because nothing about your little adventures here on Kevin's board ring true at all.
http://pipesmagazine.com/members/tmb152/album
As I said before, you can't repair pipes with a milling machine. Pipe repair is entirely a hands-and-eyes activity. Your repeated implicit insistence that there is overlap does not make it so. The techniques for both could hardly be more different.
Which means that using "milling machine logic" like this when addressing a pipe repair problem results in a wrong solution every time, before work even begins:
I absolutely 100% guarantee that were you to step into my shop and be handed a pipe to repair, you wouldn't have the slightest idea where to start, that procedures such as the one above would not work, and the end result---provided you stuck around and hacked away long enough (without walking out or destroying the pipe completely)---would be spectacularly horrible.If you work with pipes all of the time, you should have a set of wooden vee-blocks. You insert a transfer punch onto the draw hole; in most cases that will be synonymous with the axis of the stem. You insert the punch up into the collet of your machine and tighten. You then clamp the vee blocks around the pipe in a vise, preferably a 2-stage one that can be tilted as well as rotated. Now you have your reference alignment automatically set.
You check the axis of the punch with the centerline of the stem--- if they are not already coincidental or you want to make adjustments, then you can make fine adjustments to the vise. Now, any drilling or facing you do will be perfectly square along that plane and if the end of the shank is not already orthogonal, it can be squared up using a light touch with a 4 or 6-fluted end mill. Simple as that. Perfect results, no gray hairs, and no freakin’ mystery.
Given that, why are you here? Are you simply a troll having a bit of fun? Do you have mental health issues? Are you former site user BillKay returned from the digital dead with a new boardname? (shudder) Because nothing about your little adventures here on Kevin's board ring true at all.