Simon, I’m definitely down. I don’t own any cuttys as of yet. But, I’m sure you starting an entry here will very likely change that. I very much enjoy both your & Dave’s picture postings of well-loved, ancient Meers.?️
The amber stem looks to be in sound condition. Why would you want a replacement ?View attachment 96685@condorlover1
Hello Simon, recently, after a medical procedure, I was perusing eBay while taking some meds unfamiliar to me. I woke up to find I had acquired this older cased cutty meerschaum. The price was only $42.00 U.S., so all’s well.
View attachment 96681
The pipe was represented as having a genuine amber stem and being made by F. Webb Ltd., in Birmingham, 1911.
View attachment 96682
Although I have not tested it, the stem seems to be amber with bone tenon, it does thread to the shank but doesn’t clock straight, about 1/8 turn over. In all other aspects it seems well.
View attachment 96683
I would like to smoke this pipe and am thinking that a acrylic replacement stem would be a good idea.
Who would you recommend to make a stem and do any necessary tweaks?
Any thoughts or advice you may have are appreciated.
Thank you,
Ray
apologies for the extremely late reply @condorlover1 ,only just seen this.Thats a very nice unsmoked meerschaum. Was the stem amber or amberine? You need a decent faux amber stem that screws into the bone tenon that looks like it is firmly glued into the shank. I would think that is how the stem got snapped by some dick head trying to unscrew it. I actually saw that one on eBay but since I have so many examples of that style I gave it a miss. Once it is fixed you should resist the temptation to take the pipe apart since if you wear the meerschaum threads in the shank you are really f*cked and your only options revolve around cementing the shank. Trust me on the point my friend but do enjoy such a beautiful pipe.
As commented elsewhere if the amber stem is sound and the threads in the meerschaum shank are in good order then don't f*ck with it! In terms of the stem lining up I use paper shims. These can be purchased at any reasonable 'Stationary' store and are the circular things you stick on paper sheets after you have used a hole punch. It reinforces the page so that the binder does not tear the paper. Just add as many as necessary for the stem to align and then gently tighten the stem. You can then trim the surplus over hang with a razor blade. Remember use a soft modeling pipe cleaner to clean the pipe and don't take it apart to avoid stressing the meerschaum threads in the shank, its a pipe and not a folding rifle! Beautiful pipe. Thank you for showing it on the forum.View attachment 96685@condorlover1
Hello Simon, recently, after a medical procedure, I was perusing eBay while taking some meds unfamiliar to me. I woke up to find I had acquired this older cased cutty meerschaum. The price was only $42.00 U.S., so all’s well.
View attachment 96681
The pipe was represented as having a genuine amber stem and being made by F. Webb Ltd., in Birmingham, 1911.
View attachment 96682
Although I have not tested it, the stem seems to be amber with bone tenon, it does thread to the shank but doesn’t clock straight, about 1/8 turn over. In all other aspects it seems well.
View attachment 96683
I would like to smoke this pipe and am thinking that a acrylic replacement stem would be a good idea.
Who would you recommend to make a stem and do any necessary tweaks?
Any thoughts or advice you may have are appreciated.
Thank you,
Ray
I’ve no experience with amber stems and I am concerned that given the age it may be too fragile.The amber stem looks to be in sound condition. Why would you want a replacement ?
I use silicon bits with all my amber stems so I don't chomp on them, and have had no problems to date
I know exactly what you mean.I use paper shims. These can be purchased at any reasonable 'Stationary' store and are the circular things you stick on paper sheets after you have used a hole punch.
I am not familiar with these cleaners but assume they may be thinner and less bulky than a standard cleaners. I can see the hole in the stem and bone tenon look to be smaller than my current production meer.Remember use a soft modeling pipe cleaner to clean the pipe and don't take it apart to avoid stressing the meerschaum threads in the shank,
As you suggested I found these on Amazon.Amazon in ultra long lengths that are used in art projects. They are thinner and perfect for cleaning out the older Victorian/Edwardian pipe stems
I have experience working with metal so I can fabricate one of these.Here are my set of 'Pipe Keys' which are only deployed in the case of severe blockages.