Some of those dried out old tins I bought were probably from that store!?There used to be a B&M in suburban Cleveland. I found out, after several bone dry tins , that the owner would open each tin to inspect the contents!
Mike S.
Some of those dried out old tins I bought were probably from that store!?There used to be a B&M in suburban Cleveland. I found out, after several bone dry tins , that the owner would open each tin to inspect the contents!
Mike S.
This comment gets to a question I have about jarring bulk blends. I follow the 4:1 rule, e.g., 8 oz (1/2 pint) fluid jars for 2 oz tobacco, etc. Some of bulk I get may have a bit more than I buy (maybe 2.1 oz), and I'm really packing it tight in the jar with almost no head space left. Is this a bad idea? Should I split some out and leave more headspace and more O2?
Plain Mylar, which is not what you or I use, doesn't provide a good barrier, but the metalized Mylar is nearly impermeable, and the 7mil Mylar that you and I use has seven metalized layers, each one adding to the the seal. I'll be long gone before anything so encased dries out. Hell, the Sun will probably go supernova and evaporate the Earth before the contents dry out. However, it is doubtful that the Mylar bags will survive in that event. Sorry.So the real debate should be which approach offers the most reliable seal with the least amount of leakage over a long period of time. Scientific data shows that mason jars are slightly superior to mylar bags but both are shown to be more than adequate for very long term storage if the original seal is right.
Well I want to preserve his work so that I can smoke it!Yes, GL Pease uses this approach, but pipe tobacco is GL Peases' life's work. Of course he wants to preserve his work like it's a sacred relic. That doesn't mean we smokers have to do it the same way.
Plain Mylar, which is not what you or I use, doesn't provide a good barrier, but the metalized Mylar is nearly impermeable, and the 7mil Mylar that you and I use has seven metalized layers, each one adding to the the seal. I'll be long gone before anything so encased dries out. Hell, the Sun will probably go supernova and evaporate the Earth before the contents dry out. However, it is doubtful that the Mylar bags will survive in that event. Sorry.
I’ll have zero concerns.I like your confidence. And if I'm around when the sun goes super Nova, I'll have greater concerns than my cellar of tobacco.
That's me. More volume in a smaller space.?I pack bulk in about as tight as I can get it. Doesn't mean I'm right, just offering my opinion.
I weigh out 3.5 oz per jar. Flakes get way more air in the jar than the ribbon, but I am jarring with future use in mind. And, weirdly enough, my own homegrown is way lighter than the lightest commercial ribbon cut. 3.5 oz has to be really forced down into the jar.I pack pretty darn tight with no head space. There's still plenty of oxygen in the jar. I want anaerobic action to start sooner rather than later.
Does the extreme heat from the oven do anything to the tobacco? I’m going to be cellaring my first bulk tobacco as soon as the shipment comes in and I’m looking for the best practice on how to cellar successfully! Any tips would be greatly appreciated!I’ve had good luck with long term jarring, so here’s what I’ve always done.
Granted, this is best when jarring up pounds at a time, but is also simple for smaller volumes.
I prefer using 1/2 pint Kerr/Ball/Mason jars; they are perfect for 2 ounces of ribbon or 100g of Flake.
Twenty years ago I use a fair number of Quart jars, but it’s nicer to not feel like I’m opening & altering 12-16 ounces of leaf.
- Wash the jars and lids well in hot water & Dawn liquid.
- Rinse well using warm Distilled water, then microwave the damp jars for 2.5 minutes. The water will evaporate. Don’t go poking around inside the jars with dishrags or paper towels. Just shake the lids dry.
- While all this is going on I preheat the oven to 450F.
- Fill the microwaved jars fairly tightly with tobacco, leaving about 1/2” headspace.
- Place the jars in the oven for 5-7 minutes, remove and apply the lids & snug the rings down fairly firmly.
- By the time you can prepare labels the lids will pull down as the airspace cools.
- Apply the labels and check the rings again.
- Rack & stack the jars in a relatively stable room environment and just let thesit for 5-20 years.
- Enjoy the whoosh upon opening, knowing a special treat is inside.
No.Does the extreme heat from the oven do anything to the tobacco? I’m going to be cellaring my first bulk tobacco as soon as the shipment comes in and I’m looking for the best practice on how to cellar successfully! Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Wish I could say the same. E Rey time I open a 2000-2005 glp tin, it’s a toss up of perfect moisture or dust. And I’ve still got a lot?.I will continue opening 20 plus year old tins where the tobacco is in perfect shape. I have opened 10-15 year old tins that were perfect. Square, rectangle round it never matters, all are in perfect shape and I have never had a reason to doubt them keeping my tobacco fresh.
Maybe one day if I ever have a tin fail more than once I might do something about it but considering my present batting average, I'll stick to what works for me.
Do not put those shit tins from the early 2000's in the same category as any other tin. They were shit and almost everyone failed.Wish I could say the same. E Rey time I open a 2000-2005 glp tin, it’s a toss up of perfect moisture or dust. And I’ve still got a lot?.
