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jpmcwjr

Lifer
May 12, 2015
26,265
29,180
Carmel Valley, CA
This comment gets to a question I have about jarring bulk blends. I follow the 4:1 rule, e.g., 8 oz (1/2 pint) fluid jars for 2 oz tobacco, etc. Some of bulk I get may have a bit more than I buy (maybe 2.1 oz), and I'm really packing it tight in the jar with almost no head space left. Is this a bad idea? Should I split some out and leave more headspace and more O2?

I pack pretty darn tight with no head space. There's still plenty of oxygen in the jar. I want anaerobic action to start sooner rather than later.

Overall, this thoughtful thread has given me a headache, and I've decided I don't care any more about jarring my tins. Bulk, yes, but at the same time, I have lots of partial tins I've bought that are in thick rolled up plastic baggies. OH, the horror!

And should I spy a tin with rust spots, into the jar it will go. The tobacco, not the tin! :)
 

sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
23,068
58,989
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
So the real debate should be which approach offers the most reliable seal with the least amount of leakage over a long period of time. Scientific data shows that mason jars are slightly superior to mylar bags but both are shown to be more than adequate for very long term storage if the original seal is right.
Plain Mylar, which is not what you or I use, doesn't provide a good barrier, but the metalized Mylar is nearly impermeable, and the 7mil Mylar that you and I use has seven metalized layers, each one adding to the the seal. I'll be long gone before anything so encased dries out. Hell, the Sun will probably go supernova and evaporate the Earth before the contents dry out. However, it is doubtful that the Mylar bags will survive in that event. Sorry.
 
Jan 28, 2018
15,813
197,847
68
Sarasota, FL
Plain Mylar, which is not what you or I use, doesn't provide a good barrier, but the metalized Mylar is nearly impermeable, and the 7mil Mylar that you and I use has seven metalized layers, each one adding to the the seal. I'll be long gone before anything so encased dries out. Hell, the Sun will probably go supernova and evaporate the Earth before the contents dry out. However, it is doubtful that the Mylar bags will survive in that event. Sorry.

I like your confidence. And if I'm around when the sun goes super Nova, I'll have greater concerns than my cellar of tobacco.
 

cosmicfolklore

Moderator
Staff member
Aug 9, 2013
36,468
89,367
Between the Heart of Alabama and Hot Springs NC
I pack pretty darn tight with no head space. There's still plenty of oxygen in the jar. I want anaerobic action to start sooner rather than later.
I weigh out 3.5 oz per jar. Flakes get way more air in the jar than the ribbon, but I am jarring with future use in mind. And, weirdly enough, my own homegrown is way lighter than the lightest commercial ribbon cut. 3.5 oz has to be really forced down into the jar.
I just seem to do better with 3.5oz. It is not so much that I get bored with it, and not so little that I crave more as I finish. How I came up with that number... it was just the average weight of what I could get into a half pint jar comfortably. And, it keeps weight of the jars consistent.
 

mikestanley

Lifer
May 10, 2009
1,698
1,127
Akron area of Ohio
When I bought a bunch of bulk tobaccos between 2004 and 2009, i placed it in larger jars. This was back when a box of Gawith flake could be had (easily) for twenty nine dollars and change. I used jars large enough to hold 1/2 lb of flakes without busting them. Once I open one of these jars, or an 8 oz. Pease tin, I place the remainder in 1/2 pint jars. Those large jars did a very good job of hold g=those flakes, and McClelland broken flakes, in great shape. Not one issue. The 1/2 pint jars make it so I can change blends easily.
Mike S.
 

RollTide17

Lurker
May 29, 2020
3
4
31
Florida
I’ve had good luck with long term jarring, so here’s what I’ve always done.
Granted, this is best when jarring up pounds at a time, but is also simple for smaller volumes.
I prefer using 1/2 pint Kerr/Ball/Mason jars; they are perfect for 2 ounces of ribbon or 100g of Flake.
Twenty years ago I use a fair number of Quart jars, but it’s nicer to not feel like I’m opening & altering 12-16 ounces of leaf.

  • Wash the jars and lids well in hot water & Dawn liquid.
  • Rinse well using warm Distilled water, then microwave the damp jars for 2.5 minutes. The water will evaporate. Don’t go poking around inside the jars with dishrags or paper towels. Just shake the lids dry.
  • While all this is going on I preheat the oven to 450F.
  • Fill the microwaved jars fairly tightly with tobacco, leaving about 1/2” headspace.
  • Place the jars in the oven for 5-7 minutes, remove and apply the lids & snug the rings down fairly firmly.
  • By the time you can prepare labels the lids will pull down as the airspace cools.
  • Apply the labels and check the rings again.
  • Rack & stack the jars in a relatively stable room environment and just let thesit for 5-20 years.
  • Enjoy the whoosh upon opening, knowing a special treat is inside.
Does the extreme heat from the oven do anything to the tobacco? I’m going to be cellaring my first bulk tobacco as soon as the shipment comes in and I’m looking for the best practice on how to cellar successfully! Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
 
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rmpeeps

Lifer
Oct 17, 2017
1,156
1,890
San Antonio, TX
Does the extreme heat from the oven do anything to the tobacco? I’m going to be cellaring my first bulk tobacco as soon as the shipment comes in and I’m looking for the best practice on how to cellar successfully! Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
No.
5-7 is barely enough time to get the surfaces warm.
 
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cigrmaster

Lifer
May 26, 2012
20,248
56,848
68
Sarasota Florida
I will continue opening 20 plus year old tins where the tobacco is in perfect shape. I have opened 10-15 year old tins that were perfect. Square, rectangle round it never matters, all are in perfect shape and I have never had a reason to doubt them keeping my tobacco fresh.
Maybe one day if I ever have a tin fail more than once I might do something about it but considering my present batting average, I'll stick to what works for me.
 
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dquisenberry

Starting to Get Obsessed
Jul 1, 2016
140
718
dallas tx
I will continue opening 20 plus year old tins where the tobacco is in perfect shape. I have opened 10-15 year old tins that were perfect. Square, rectangle round it never matters, all are in perfect shape and I have never had a reason to doubt them keeping my tobacco fresh.
Maybe one day if I ever have a tin fail more than once I might do something about it but considering my present batting average, I'll stick to what works for me.
Wish I could say the same. E Rey time I open a 2000-2005 glp tin, it’s a toss up of perfect moisture or dust. And I’ve still got a lot?.
 
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cigrmaster

Lifer
May 26, 2012
20,248
56,848
68
Sarasota Florida
Wish I could say the same. E Rey time I open a 2000-2005 glp tin, it’s a toss up of perfect moisture or dust. And I’ve still got a lot?.
Do not put those shit tins from the early 2000's in the same category as any other tin. They were shit and almost everyone failed.

All of the tins I spoke about of mine none were a GLP tin. Mine were every other mfgs and they were all fine. All of PL Pease tins rusted and made the tobacco turn to dust. I opened a 2002 Tribute I think that was dust.
Those tins were a special run of crap and he admitted his failure a long time ago.The only GL Pease tins I have now are 2012 Navigators. A couple have bulged and when I opened them I got a big woosh and the tobacco was perfect. That is a nice blend no one talks about but it does need age to smooth out the Kentucky.
 
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