Watch Out or Watch on? Pt 2.

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troutface

Lifer
Oct 26, 2012
2,349
11,614
Colorado
What I think is so cool about watches, is that the basic analog battery powered quartz movement hasn’t really changed enough to mention since 1980
When did the high precision and high torque movements come out ? I think it's amazing that they are accurate to something like +/- 10 seconds a year. I've heard a few folks say theirs have been off only one or two seconds a year. Insane !
 

Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,837
13,910
Humansville Missouri
When did the high precision and high torque movements come out ? I think it's amazing that they are accurate to something like +/- 10 seconds a year. I've heard a few folks say theirs have been off only one or two seconds a year. Insane !

I read about the “quartz revolution” and the 1960 Boluva Accutron (not a full quartz watch, but had a tuning fork) just killed the railroad watches dead. Hamilton made a few 992 B watches for ten years and quit. The old timers kept their watches until they retired, but it was over, in 1960, for the railroad chronometer.


In the late seventies I wanted a Sieko quartz but they were about $200.

Then about $150.


I can remember opening the sale flier in the Shady Nook cafe and there was a 70% off sale for Montgomery Ward LeGant watches.

My Timex Marlin automatic has slept in a drawer since. It still works but it wouldn’t work long, it’s not jeweled.

As for the self winding automatic good 17 jewel and better watches they really haven’t changed much since the fifties, just got cheaper and better and more accurate.

The Rolex Submariner was first made in 1953.


I own an Orient Ray II. It’s not a Rolex. But it will last for centuries if used occasionally. The movement was made in house by Orient in Japan, is accurate to seconds a week, serviceable, parts are available, it’s a high quality dive watch.

For $150.

IMG_6955.jpeg
 
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ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,448
11,357
Maryland
postimg.cc
I read about the “quartz revolution” and the 1960 Boluva Accutron (not a full quartz watch, but had a tuning fork) just killed the railroad watches dead. Hamilton made a few 992 B watches for ten years and quit. The old timers kept their watches until they retired, but it was over, in 1960, for the railroad chronometer.


In the late seventies I wanted a Sieko quartz but they were about $200.

Then about $150.


I can remember opening the sale flier in the Shady Nook cafe and there was a 70% off sale for Montgomery Ward LeGant watches.

My Timex Marlin automatic has slept in a drawer since. It still works but it wouldn’t work long, it’s not jeweled.

As for the self winding automatic good 17 jewel and better watches they really haven’t changed much since the fifties, just got cheaper and better and more accurate.

The Rolex Submariner was first made in 1953.


I own an Orient Ray II. It’s not a Rolex. But it will last for centuries if used occasionally. The movement was made in house by Orient in Japan, is accurate to seconds a week, serviceable, parts are available, it’s a high quality dive watch.

For $150.

View attachment 283148
The problem with automatics like this, if they need serviced, it will run over $200.

My son-in-law's Seiko SKX, the inexpensive workhorse of the Seiko line (replaced by the new Sports 5 Series) started running erratically. My local service/dealer, Maryland Watch Works, said they could service it for about $250. OR, they could replace the movement with the better NH35 Movement for $180. The NH35 is a hacking movement and good upgrade, it will last his lifetime and he can likely gift the watch to my grandson.

My Captain Willard (6R35 movement) started running very fast, gaining over a minute per day. Seiko had replaced this movement for me under warranty last year and up until now, been running great, gaining only a few seconds per day. Maryland Watch Works said they thought it was likely magnetized, and yep, it was. I hadn't even thought of that. He did it for free, again, I'm lucky to have such a great resource in my small town.
 
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troutface

Lifer
Oct 26, 2012
2,349
11,614
Colorado
The Grail Watch article is an interesting history of the quartz watch, but there is a conspicuous absence of the accuracy of the early models and improvement of accuracy over time. I remember buying a Casio digital in maybe 1977 and it being accurate, but at the time I was just impressed by this wiz bang $30 watch and how cutting edge I was. :ROFLMAO:
 

troutface

Lifer
Oct 26, 2012
2,349
11,614
Colorado
The problem with automatics like this, if they need serviced, it will run over $200.
That's what's keeping me from buying a high end mechanical watch. They charge $500-600 for a service on Rolex, Omega etc., but I guess if you can afford the watch you can afford the service. That's why I'm sticking with my Omega quartz Seamaster. I bought it before Omega decided they're just as good as Rolex and jacked up their prices. The problem is now my new phone keeps screwing up the watch. The magnets in the new phones are much stronger, I'm assuming to make the wireless charging go much faster. If I get the watch too close to the phone it throws the watch off 5-10 minutes. Not sure what to do at this point. Interestingly, my Marathon quartz hasn't been affected. I had a full service on the Omega a year ago and it was running perfectly until I got the new phone, so I'm assuming it has to be the phone. If I put the Omega in the safe for a month it's fine. Any suggestions, other than buying a Sinn with massive anti-magnetic protection ?
 

Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,837
13,910
Humansville Missouri
The problem with automatics like this, if they need serviced, it will run over $200.

My son-in-law's Seiko SKX, the inexpensive workhorse of the Seiko line (replaced by the new Sports 5 Series) started running erratically. My local service/dealer, Maryland Watch Works, said they could service it for about $250. OR, they could replace the movement with the better NH35 Movement for $180. The NH35 is a hacking movement and good upgrade, it will last his lifetime and he can likely gift the watch to my grandson.

My Captain Willard (6R35 movement) started running very fast, gaining over a minute per day. Seiko had replaced this movement for me under warranty last year and up until now, been running great, gaining only a few seconds per day. Maryland Watch Works said they thought it was likely magnetized, and yep, it was. I hadn't even thought of that. He did it for free, again, I'm lucky to have such a great resource in my small town.

In the middle seventies I watched the local watchmaker overhaul my father’s 1958 Hamilton Thin O Matic.

I was sort of disappointed to see a Swiss movement inside.

The old man put all the parts in his ultrasonic cleaner, and said something I’ve never forgotten.
——
There ain’t very many ways to make that little machine keep time.

That balance wheel can beat 5 or 6 or 8 beats a second. That watch needs 15 jewels and has 17. The rotor can wind it or you can. And as long as it’s within a minute or two of the correct time it’s an accurate watch.

——-

In the fifty years since nothing of any consequence has been improved about how a watch actually works.

But this 24 jewel hacking and winding NH35A movement in an Invicta case costs a hundred bucks new. In effect they’ve replaced the Timex Marlin as a disposable watch.

IMG_6956.jpeg

IMG_6957.jpeg

It’s fully serviceable but unless it’s a keepsake it’s not economical to service it.

A hundred dollar watch is not a fine watch. But it will last as long as a fine watch if you’ll keep overhauling it.
 

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Alejo R.

Part of the Furniture Now
Oct 13, 2020
843
1,700
48
Buenos Aires, Argentina.
I was goofing around on Facebook with my son-in-law and brother, these bogus Omega Moonswatches came up, for $50. I gambled and ordered the Mission to Mercury, straight from China. The knock-off is amazing, fully Swatch packaging, including a pink Swatch bag. The velcro strap is silly, so I have it on a grey NATO for now. I have an incoming grey rubber strap from AliExpress. People say the quartz movement in these knock-offs are actually of a better quality than the $300 Swatch version.

View attachment 282250View attachment 282251View attachment 282252
I don't understand where Swatch is pointing with these lines. Now there is a Blancpain Fifty Fanthoms by Swatch. Could it be that the honored models are financially dead?
 

Alejo R.

Part of the Furniture Now
Oct 13, 2020
843
1,700
48
Buenos Aires, Argentina.
That’s a strange move by the Swatch Group. I’m certain a well calculated one. But definitely a gamble.

It was designed to plant a seed of interest in luxury watches to an ignored market segment. At this stage of life, they cannot afford a luxury watch. But later…

The gamble is in the Swatch Group placing the name “Omega” onto a plastic quartz watch and thus cheapening their own brand. — There are many Speedmaster owners and collectors wondering why they would do this.

But TIME will TELL.
It's a bit frustrating to spend thousands of dollars on a manual chrono only to have the same manufacturer replicate the model with a quartz movement and plastic case. But worse is paying $300 for that plastic chrono. There's the deal, each Omega by Swatch has an astronomical profitability, and sells units in numbers impossible for the original, enough to risk the brand value of the original model.
 
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Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,837
13,910
Humansville Missouri
I don't understand where Swatch is pointing with these lines. Now there is a Blancpain Fifty Fanthoms by Swatch. Could it be that the honored models are financially dead?

When my mother paid $100 in 1958 to replace my father’s Hamilton he lost the movement in a snow bank, that one hundred dollars would be at least worth a thousand dollars today.

This $140 Orient Bambino is a dead ringer for my father’s watch except the new one is electroplated gold and his was gold filled.

IMG_6959.jpeg

Swatch has formidable competition.
 

Alejo R.

Part of the Furniture Now
Oct 13, 2020
843
1,700
48
Buenos Aires, Argentina.
When my mother paid $100 in 1958 to replace my father’s Hamilton he lost the movement in a snow bank, that one hundred dollars would be at least worth a thousand dollars today.

This $140 Orient Bambino is a dead ringer for my father’s watch except the new one is electroplated gold and his was gold filled.

View attachment 283183

Swatch has formidable competition.
No, in fact Swatch has almost no competition. It has dominant positions from watches from a few dollars like Flik Flak to thousands at Breguet. It has a distribution network of thousands of points of sale around the world. This move to bring the Swatch brand to iconic models seems more like a financial move to increase the profitability of the brand portfolio than a competitive move. Swatch is not far from that $140 Bambino with several current Hamilton models and could well, if it wanted to, compete in the entry-level segment of mechanical watches and do it well. But there are people lining up to buy, for the same $140, plastic watches that are manufactured for very few dollars.
 

Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,837
13,910
Humansville Missouri
For you guys with multiple watches, do you keep them going all the time?

For mine that don't have a day / date on them, I just keep the crown pulled out to save battery life.

My last watchmaker (he retired to his farm, not the graveyard) advised me to keep all quartz watches running.

The reason was the batteries can leak if let sit for a long time.

As to the mechanicals he advised to have them cleaned, oiled and serviced when they stopped keeping accurate time.

His experience was a Swiss automatic usually needed a service every five years of constant daily use.

Since the Japanese automatics beat 25% slower he claimed the service interval (if economical) was many times longer. Usually the case and crystal of a Seiko will get beat to death before it needs service.

I know I own Seiko Five watches thirty years old, that keep great time. But they are drawer queens.
 

Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,837
13,910
Humansville Missouri
No, in fact Swatch has almost no competition. It has dominant positions from watches from a few dollars like Flik Flak to thousands at Breguet. It has a distribution network of thousands of points of sale around the world. This move to bring the Swatch brand to iconic models seems more like a financial move to increase the profitability of the brand portfolio than a competitive move. Swatch is not far from that $140 Bambino with several current Hamilton models and could well, if it wanted to, compete in the entry-level segment of mechanical watches and do it well. But there are people lining up to buy, for the same $140, plastic watches that are manufactured for very few dollars.

I’ll admit that if an affordable watch says SWISS MADE then Swatch has that monopolized.

Here’s what I mean by completion.

I own a couple of nice mid range Tissot watches with a 2824 movements, just wonderful watches, so very pretty.

My $140 Bamino makes those look bad.

My $340 Orient makes a Tissot look like an old Westclox Scotty.:)

The Japanese affordable mid range watches have better finishing
 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,448
11,357
Maryland
postimg.cc
That's what's keeping me from buying a high end mechanical watch. They charge $500-600 for a service on Rolex, Omega etc., but I guess if you can afford the watch you can afford the service. That's why I'm sticking with my Omega quartz Seamaster. I bought it before Omega decided they're just as good as Rolex and jacked up their prices. The problem is now my new phone keeps screwing up the watch. The magnets in the new phones are much stronger, I'm assuming to make the wireless charging go much faster. If I get the watch too close to the phone it throws the watch off 5-10 minutes. Not sure what to do at this point. Interestingly, my Marathon quartz hasn't been affected. I had a full service on the Omega a year ago and it was running perfectly until I got the new phone, so I'm assuming it has to be the phone. If I put the Omega in the safe for a month it's fine. Any suggestions, other than buying a Sinn with massive anti-magnetic protection ?
It could be your phone for sure! Leki makes an I-phone phone magnetize analyzer, it will tell you if your watch has been magnetized. De-mags are pretty cheap, about $20, I just ordered one.

I think Rolex service on a simple Sub is now closer to $1,000.
 
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doccaliban

Starting to Get Obsessed
Jul 14, 2014
116
213
Pacific Northwest
Glad to see this one, and with a lifetime of intended use! How did you pack in some many dives?
I worked as a diver for 9 years, plus all of my personal recreation dives. I stopped logging after a couple k, and stopped ballparking a little after 4k.

Despite having a computer on every dive, often two, I always used the bezel on the watch! I mean, it's just cool!
 

doccaliban

Starting to Get Obsessed
Jul 14, 2014
116
213
Pacific Northwest
As well they should be. Lots of good patina on that one.
I love it, and would never have anything visible replaced or repaired.
I have a 1969 Omega Speedmaster in for service and made sure they know not to replace or restore a single thing on the exterior. Not the dial, the hands, and no polishing the case or back cover. Good lord, it would be like erasing the pages of a 55 year old book!
 
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doccaliban

Starting to Get Obsessed
Jul 14, 2014
116
213
Pacific Northwest
For you guys with multiple watches, do you keep them going all the time?

For mine that don't have a day / date on them, I just keep the crown pulled out to save battery life.
Since I rarely get to wear the thing now, I have it hanging on the wall above the kitchen sink. It's my kitchen clock, and a constant reminder of a past life on, and under, the sea.

The ,69 Speedmaster, currently in to Omega for service, will be my "home" watch when I'm home and not doing work stuff.
 
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doccaliban

Starting to Get Obsessed
Jul 14, 2014
116
213
Pacific Northwest
Thanks, Mike. I hope no one thinks me a watch-snob. Nothing could be further from the truth. These two watches were purchased 10 years apart for a reason.

I enjoy wearing my Japanese dive watches to bang around in day to day. I’m wearing one now. One of the kids made the beaded bracelet.
View attachment 281660
I used give the Rolex much wrist time. But prices have skyrocketed. — I’ll be wearing that one on Thanksgiving or Christmas. 👊😎

On edit. -The Rolex was my gift to myself when I retired. I’m certainly glad I own it. But boy it hurt to buy it even then!
When I was a working diver, I wore my Citizen Promaster with a safety strap for thousands of dives. I loved the strap in those conditions because it remained well rinsed day in and day out. Otherwise, I found it to get rather manky with sweat. I like to use it when I am doing rope work in the rainy season because I can strap it on over the top of my rain jacket!