Stem Repair - Oxidized "dots"?

[carpart67]

I am currently in the process of refurbishing an oxidized vulcanite stem. I'm not fond of the bleach idea so I began with sanding. I've wet sanded with 600 grit and the stem is smooth and black. However, the stem has very small little dots or specks that are yellow in color.
The stem has brass insets, I thought perhaps the spots were brass fragments that got rubbed in during sanding, but they look too large to be created with wet 600 grit sanding. I've also done a similar stem with the same inserts and got no specks(That setm wasn't oxidized when I started). So I'm thinking that's not the cause.
I'm a pipe novice but from what I understand vulcanite is porous. Is it possible these specks are perhaps tiny, but deep, pits that are still oxidized? Should I start over this time wet sanding with 400 to get a little deeper? Perhaps a magic eraser or liquid polish would "reach" into the pits now that I've smoothed it?
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

[hnryclay]

I use a buffer, with rubbing compounds, this is a satisfactory way to clean up a pipe stem. I have never used sand paper, but some here have, I suggest going for the buffer system, little money now pays off later.

 

[nsfisher]

lol what is the make of the pipe mate, if its a brigham for example those brass inserts indicate quality of the pipe. 1 dot lower grade, 3,4,5 dot higher grade as the number climbs. As for ur stem, wet paper is fine, then u can buff by hand with micro- mesh. watch a movie and keep on rubbing.

 

[nsfisher]

hmm on re reading ur post mate, if ur showing tiny dots over stem, it may well be tiny specks of oxidation that u didnt git cleaned off cause there may be micro tiny pits over the stem

 

[carpart67]

It is a Brigham, 4 dot. I purchased it for cheap off ebay. I could see in the sellers picture it was a 4 dot, and knew that meant it was a good pipe. All in all it cost me $13 to my door!
Any ideas on getting into the micro pits?

 

[ejames]

A lot depends on the quality of the vulcanite used in the stem. Lower quality stuff may have fillers etc in the rubber. I've come across a good many stem that even after bleaching and sanding had a speckled appearance. Or could be as nsfisher said you didn't sand enough.
BTW-I have bleached hundreds of stems with no ill effects. Never had a complaint from folks who ended up with many of those.

 

[nsfisher]

well ya first gotta determine if they are tiny pits, a sewing needle point used extremely carefully will do the trick for ya mate. I would recomend bleachin it mate, ya wont hurt it one lick.

 

[jchaplick]

I use magic erasers onbrass insets

 

[ssjones]

My Grabow Regal has some stubbon white "freckles" on the stem. I only used micromesh pads for sanding, and should go back and sand it with some 1500 than 2000 wet paper to see if they will come off (than back thru the micromesh grades).

 

[nsfisher]

yup, looks good tho Al, nice job

 

[ejames]

One thing to remember about bleaching. ANY AND ALL metal must be completely covered with vaseline to protect it from the bleach. Plastic stem logos are not damaged by it. You don't have to use bleach straight,dilute it about 4 to 1.

 

[carpart67]

The specks are indeed pits. Checked with a needle. I guess I'll have to go with a more aggressive sand paper, and work my way to finer grits.

 

[nsfisher]

good, glad u found em carpart67, pretty easy fix there mate

 

[danno]

I myseld wouldn't get too enthusiastic if the pipe is not a real looker, and you feel that any more sanding

(effectively enough material to get rid of all the pits) would remove far too much material. My biggest concern if if there are voids scattered all within the structure of the stem, and you would just keep revealing more?
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I want a buffer real badly. need to start learning about them and what pipes like as far as RPMs for Stems and bowls. I am really getting to the point where I want to try my hand at making pipes. I figure witth my Art Background, my Cabinet making upbringing, and my attention to detail (a.k.a.anal retentiveness) it is a natural progression.

 

[carpart67]

I think I'll try 400 and go carefully from there. I've read that some people start as low as 220 or 320. I do think the pipe would look very nice when complete and the briar isn't in bad shape at all. It should be of decent quality, I think, as it's a Brigham 4 dot.(Perhaps they aren't as good as I think lol)

 

[ssjones]

Take some before/after shots on your Brigham (good pipe to start on) and show us your results, have fun!

 

[carpart67]

Hey Al, I actually did take some before shots. I'll make sure to post them once shes all done.

 

[banjobob]

@Danno

I know a guy that buffs pipes and he claims to be an expert in all things pipe related.

He frequently has a pipe flung across a room.

The reason is the motor speed.

Grinders/electric motors typically come in 3450 rpm's, or 1725 rpm's.

The slower speed doesn't grab a pipe from your hands and fling it nearly as much.

I bought a variable speed 8" grinder and always use the slowest speed around 2000 rpm or less.

Another thing that slows the speed further is a smaller buffing pad.

The speed at contact of a 6" pad is much less than that of a 8" pad.

So the key is getting either a variable speed grinder/buffer or a slow speed machine.

A drill press frequently has different speed and can be used as well.

I know a guy that swears by his electric shoe buffer.

I use the white diamond compound at the slowest speed and have phenominal results.

Today I got a pipe in the mail that's the best candidate I've ever seen to show before/after photos.

I bought a Barling Pot shape TVF for $24 delivered. When it came today I saw it's the nastiest dirtiest pipe I've ever seen. The bit is horribly oxidized, the top of the bowl is crusty and it has no shine, but I think I can make it look like new again.

Banjo

 

[ssjones]

Looking forward to seeing that rejuvenated Barling Banjo!
I just picked up a GBD 9438 with a very oxidized (but seemingly intact) bit. This one has a "chairleg" stem, my fingers are already aching.....


Someone on another forum was advocating using a lighter/flame and/or heat gun to remove the oxidation. It sure works, but I wonder about the damage done to the vulcanite by the heat. I'm in the restaurant business and see daily what heat does over time to bakelite oven knobs, etc.

 

[nsfisher]

I start with 600 grit wet paper and a bleach/water solution, 30/70% bleach to water. After the stem is clean I use micro-fibre while watching a movie. Then a coating of Extra Virgin Olive Oil to finish up.Usually comes out fine.Seldom do I buff the stem but if I have to I use a car buffer(simonizer}