Restoring Logos and buffing stems

[Roach1]

What would be quick and simple way to restore the logos on stems? I am trying to get my old pipes that have been in the cabinet ready to smoke again.
In my ignorance the stems have taken a beating over the years.
I am trying to avoid an chemical treatments an wet sanding the oxidation away. Should I purchase a small Dremel to do the buffing and what should I use. Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[ssjones]

Follow posts in this section.
Techniques are fairly standard.
A dremels not the most effective choice.

I'm not sure I completely understand this sentence:

I am trying to avoid an chemical treatments an wet sanding the oxidation away.

 

[Roach1]

I do not like using Oxiclean therefore wet sanding and have removed part of the logo.

 

[ssjones]

I do not like using Oxiclean therefore wet sanding and have removed part of the logo.

I've stopped using Oxiclean, just wet sand and then polish, carefully.

 

[Roach1]

Would a Dremel a buffing wheel suffice?

 

[jafo1989]

I've stopped using Oxiclean, just wet sand and then polish, carefully.

This is new to me; what’s the reason for disfavoring oxiclean?

 

[ssjones]

This is new to me; what’s the reason for disfavoring oxiclean?

As Roach1 states, its rough on stamped logos (Like Peterson, etc.). It's also not kind to GBD rondells, or that style.
I just don't find it necessary. Sanding is ultimately the only way to remove all of the oxidation, as George D has explained to us many times.

 

[jafo1989]

Would a Dremel a buffing wheel suffice?

A Dremel, knock-off flap wheel bits, brown then blue compounds then Flitz are all I use now - too many rounded edges & effaced stamps even with micromesh pads.

 

[jafo1989]

As Roach1 states, its rough on stamped logos (Like Peterson, etc.). It's also not kind to GBD rondells, or that style.
I just don't find it necessary. Sanding is ultimately the only way to remove all of the oxidation, as George D has explained to us many times.

Ah OK, the way metal reacts to it, gotcha. I don’t have any stinger stems anymore so I’d forgotten about that.

 

[Sobrbiker]

“Rondelles” referred to are medallion type logos inset into the stem.
I personally stay away from power buffing, as I don’t have a powered tool that can be slowed down to where damage from the abrasive (either heat or mechanical) can be better controlled. Buffing vulcanite needs lower speed than most dremel style/bench motors are set to.
Patience, micro mesh pads, and bright light have worked best for this neophyte.

 

[Roach1]

Thanks. Micromesh and Sandpaper are also cheaper than buy a Dremel and other accessories.

 

[ssjones]

Thanks. Micromesh and Sandpaper are also cheaper than buy a Dremel and other accessories.

That regimen and materials satisfies many pipe smokers who just want to keep their pipes looking like new.

 

[Roach1]

Some of my stems sre quite oxidized and my take time. I just need to take my time. Do magic erasers help?

 

[ssjones]

Some of my stems sre quite oxidized and my take time. I just need to take my time. Do magic erasers help?

I use a Magic Eraser around a stamped stem logo.

Read as much as you can. I post on the Reborn Pipes blog. Steve Laug is the owner, he's far more prolific than I am and goes into greater detail.

upshallfan

Moderator on the PipesMagazine forum since 2011. Guest contributor on the Reborn Pipes Blog by Steve Laug.

rebornpipes.com

 

[PaulTheScandinavian]

Some of my stems sre quite oxidized and my take time. I just need to take my time. Do magic erasers help?

You can try using them at start, if you your not satisisfied with the result and it leaves a lot to be desired , then it is time to switch using a more abrasive methods so to say,sanding sheets / This advice is not suitable for logos in any means, only for plain parts of the stem with no inlays

 

[kcghost]

Ok, we've agreed on No Chemicals, No Dremel, No Oxyclean, most ok with wet sanding and then polish. I am fortunate not living far from @georged I just take any pipes to him, and he takes care of them.

 

[ssjones]

IF your logo is deep enough to recolor, once the oxidation is gone, I've had the best result with white acrylic nail polish.

 

[sablebrush52]

A Dremel, knock-off flap wheel bits, brown then blue compounds then Flitz are all I use now - too many rounded edges & effaced stamps even with micromesh pads.

Never had that issue with micromesh. Dremel is going to be more difficult to maintain an even application. There's more of a propensity to create waves on the surface.

Never used bleach or oxiclean. Bleach pits vulcanite. Getting rid of actual oxidized vulcanite requires removal of the diseased material or it will continue to spread. I'm just very careful, which seems to be an unpopular answer.

 

[ssjones]

Getting rid of actual oxidized vulcanite requires removal of the diseased material or it will continue to spread. I'm just very careful, which seems to be an unpopular answer.

Bingo. There's no magic elixir that removes oxidation. You can hide it for a while, but ultimately it has to be removed.

 

[woodrow]

Any Kind of pipe cleaning solution, and there are many including oxy will take a certain amount of vulcanite off. When I use oxy I use thick plumbing grease on the logo. I’ve been successful up to a 1 hour soak.
Conversley I’ve used magic erasure pads. When sanding I use thick clear hockey tape over the logo. The tape is available at sports stores and any place they sell hockey equipment. It’s very good material for masking on the stampings on briar as well. After your stem is polished you apply rub n buff, or acrylic paint. I have a bottle of white acrylic that I can dab on.