Whatever works. But if the stem has oxidation and vulcanite is not being removed, nothing useful is going on. I don't see the point of using bleach or oxy because ultimately the diseased material needs to be sanded off. In my experience, bleach made things worse with it's pitting. Walker Pipe Repair put it very succinctly on their site, "Bleach destroys vulcanite."Any Kind of pipe cleaning solution, and there are many including oxy will take a certain amount of vulcanite off. When I use oxy I use thick plumbing grease on the logo. I’ve been successful up to a 1 hour soak.
Conversley I’ve used magic erasure pads. When sanding I use thick clear hockey tape over the logo. The tape is available at sports stores and any place they sell hockey equipment. It’s very good material for masking on the stampings on briar as well. After your stem is polished you apply rub n buff, or acrylic paint. I have a bottle of white acrylic that I can dab on.
My chief gripe with people using buffers is that only a tiny percentage actually know how to use one correctly and the rest just commit crimes against pipes. I say this as someone who used buffers daily for a decade when I was a manufacturing jeweler and restored important antique pieces going as far back as the 17th century.
Dremels have their place, I have a crapload of Dremel tools that I use, but buffing a long surface like a stem isn't one of them.
CA is a crap choice because it doesn't reliably adhere to vulcanite. Fortunately you have a couple of experts, Georged, Rustie and ssjones, who really know their stuff. Ca isn't what they use. They use G-Flex.
Unfortunately, protecting logos can be difficult, but not impossible. I'm very careful when I use micromesh pads, not to erode the stampings. One thing that I like about micromesh pads is the fine control they allow me.