^^ This. I was using this method combined with alcohol, always got great results. And Ashdigger is right, it's very meditative...............
Proof That Warm Water Doesn't Cause Oxidation on Vulcanite Stems
- Thread starter jvnshr
- Start date
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
Site Sponsors
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
- Status
It's nasty spit that "rust" vulcanite.. drink more water, brush your teeth, and stop drooling.
Yes, type/quality of vulcanite is a big factor.
I can state categorically that hot water does not cause oxidation among my 70 or so pipes with vulcanite stems, over a period of over four years. BUT: It reveals what is there, which is easily cured by a light application of mineral oil, or the somewhat superior 'Wax N Feed'. So the pipes come back to where they were before the hot water.
I can state categorically that hot water does not cause oxidation among my 70 or so pipes with vulcanite stems, over a period of over four years. BUT: It reveals what is there, which is easily cured by a light application of mineral oil, or the somewhat superior 'Wax N Feed'. So the pipes come back to where they were before the hot water.
When washing away mineral oil, it will reveal what was there. Oil application is more like painting over rust, it doesn't cure oxidation and it will continue to spread.
No, it's not like painting over rust.
And I haven't said it removes oxidation or cures it. Mineral oil will return the stem to be as it was before the wash, and sometimes better.
In my experience over these last years, it has not spread.
Not trying to be that guy, but the country I live is both in Europe and Asia, however we are neither European nor Asian, funny right? And I doubt that the water we have here is in any way better than yours. Now I wonder, if I warm some distilled water and use it on a vulcanite stem, what will be the consequences?
You are right, check this out:
Not all vulcanite stems are made equally. Generally there are two types: those handcut from rolled out ebonite rods and those preformed from a cast of liquid. While they both can be very high quality mouthpieces, the liquid casts often oxidize much faster than those handcut from rods. The handcut stems are usually much denser because they are formed from ebonite that's compressed and then rolled and baked. The liquid casts often have tiny, microscopic bubbles that formed when the cast was poured. This just means you'll need to take more preventative action with the casts to ensure your stem stays shiny and clean.
Source
While thinking about this issue, an idea came to my mind; @georged must have an answer. Here is what I found:
When it comes to discolored rubber stems, the most fundamental chemistry possible, easily referenced by anyone---known as "oxidation" or "rust" to the general public, and "redox" to the scientific-minded---is endlessly disregarded/ignored in favor of Secret Information of Unknown Origin. It's the PipeWorld's version of the Flat Earth Society.
Ebonite/vulcanite turning green is a chemical process that alters the material at an atomic level and cannot be reversed. (Theoretically in a laboratory, yes, but nothing remotely practical under any conditions, never mind a pipe or pen workshop).
The only way the oxidized ebonite can be functionally returned to its original color is to physically remove the discolored surface layer by scraping, sanding, or chemical means until unoxidized material is reached.
Chemical means is pointless effort since it leaves a pebbled, textured surface that must be scraped or sanded back to level in its own right.
The end.
When it comes to discolored rubber stems, the most fundamental chemistry possible, easily referenced by anyone---known as "oxidation" or "rust" to the general public, and "redox" to the scientific-minded---is endlessly disregarded/ignored in favor of Secret Information of Unknown Origin. It's the PipeWorld's version of the Flat Earth Society.
Ebonite/vulcanite turning green is a chemical process that alters the material at an atomic level and cannot be reversed. (Theoretically in a laboratory, yes, but nothing remotely practical under any conditions, never mind a pipe or pen workshop).
The only way the oxidized ebonite can be functionally returned to its original color is to physically remove the discolored surface layer by scraping, sanding, or chemical means until unoxidized material is reached.
Chemical means is pointless effort since it leaves a pebbled, textured surface that must be scraped or sanded back to level in its own right.
The end.
Apologies for the incorrect statement there. I appreciate the correction as I get to learn from it.
As to water quality, the presence of chloramines doesn't indicate superiority or inferiority, just a difference in water treatment types. Some countries/continents use predominantly chlorine and others use predominantly chloramines. Still others use neither. An interesting fact is that, in the USA, the transition from rubber fittings and gaskets to silicone was because of the switch to chloramines from chlorine as the chloramines rapidly destroyed the old rubber.
I would also be interested in seeing how distilled water would react with the vulcanite. My guess is it would not cause any oxidation unless there is a reaction to higher temperatures.
No, no, no apology necessary. As I have mentioned in my previous post, even we don't know where we are, haha.
I totally understood your point in your previous post, using the word "better" was kind of a generalization I guess, I thought twice before writing it actually. In developed countries such as USA, they do thorough researches before adding anything to the water. In developing countries, such as Azerbaijan they just add it, they probably ask few guys before doing it and get response as "yeah, whatever". Everybody here complains about the smell of chlorine in the water all the time. So I think they add more than they supposed to.
As per chlorine vs chloramine issue, I've just found out that they add chlorine to the tap water here in my country. Now the question is which one affects vulcanite more, chlorine or chloramine. Some who repair oxidized vulcanite stems, suggest using chlorine on them before sanding them off. Nobody has mentioned the chloramine, but the reason may be that it is not as easily accessible as chlorine. Oh boy, it is getting harder and harder.
That's the stuff that causes micturition!
It must be in beer too! The USDA needs to know this!
The rubber used in making pipe stems varies widely in composition, but there is one constant: It is dyed. Black is not the natural color. Thus, we have seen a recent proliferation of rubber pipe stem material in a wide array of colors, swirls and patterns. To that end, I decided to try re-dying my oxidized pipe stems, using Fiebing's Black Pro Dye.
My process:
I find that this restores faded pipe stems to their former glory.
My process:
- Buff the stem to the desired shine.
- Rub down the stem with alcohol on a microfiber cloth to remove residual wax and oils.
- Immerse the pipe stem in Fiebing's for a minimum of 24 hours. I often leave the stems in for three days. My method for doing this is to insert a twist tie or similar wire into the stem, bend each end a bit to keep it in place, then suspend the pipe stem by the wire in the bottle of dye.
- Remove the pipe stem from the dye an blot the excess off. Allow the stem to air dry. Depending on the humidity, this can be from 24 hours to several days.
- Give a final light buffing.
I find that this restores faded pipe stems to their former glory.
- Status