Pipe That Whistles? Not The Tune I Want To Hear
- Thread starter carolinachurchwarden
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Forgot I had my Case knife on me, so I just scraped along the inside edge, beveling it with my blade for a bit. It's getting better, but I'll grab some fine grit when I get home and smooth out the edge a little more. At least I can now puff normally and not hear it anymore. If my bowl start to go out and I puff a little harder I can still hear it, but it's greatly reduced. Thanks for the help gents!
'Sounds like you're on track to subdue the whistle. It's some little edge, burr, or uneven place that is acting like a woodwind reed and vibrating. The fix will be very minor, just hitting the one really small place. It shouldn't be there, but there it is.
Carolina, just posted this on another thread.
Disclaimer: not a professional by any means.
My first briar was a Tinderbox basket pipe with shellac as the polish. That pipe gurgled from the first smoke until just recently, about three years. I dove into trying the estate refurbish and resell and had many “crap” pipes like Grabow and kaywoodie. There are previous posters in this thread that have said poor workmanship could cause this. I will have to agree. I just finished Rick Newcombe's book, “In Search of Pipe Dreams” and Rick said that he preferred his draft to be drilled at 3/16th of an inch. He also said that 5/32nd would be a good start to “open” up a pipe. I was leary of gouging out the shank of my pipe so I chose to use 5/32nd drill bit on that Tinderbox pipe. It will not gurgle.
That leads me to my Savinelli pipes. I have not had gurgle in my Savinelli pipes, that is until I acquired an estate set of Linea 76 shape 06. I was messing with the cheap pipes and noticed that the Savinelli pipes I had acquired new were drilled already at 5/32nd. The older Savs were not drilled so large. I also had a cheap meerschaum that gurgled constantly and drilled it also. That cleared the pipe from gurgle.
I understand Newcombe is clearly into Danish pipes and into pipes none of us could ever afford, but his time with The Ivarson family and the other Danish pipe makers have given him some great knowledge on the physics of a great smoking pipe.
In close, I agree with the posts in this thread that the physics of the pipe would most likely be the cause of the gurgle. Or soaking wet tobacco.
Disclaimer: not a professional by any means.
My first briar was a Tinderbox basket pipe with shellac as the polish. That pipe gurgled from the first smoke until just recently, about three years. I dove into trying the estate refurbish and resell and had many “crap” pipes like Grabow and kaywoodie. There are previous posters in this thread that have said poor workmanship could cause this. I will have to agree. I just finished Rick Newcombe's book, “In Search of Pipe Dreams” and Rick said that he preferred his draft to be drilled at 3/16th of an inch. He also said that 5/32nd would be a good start to “open” up a pipe. I was leary of gouging out the shank of my pipe so I chose to use 5/32nd drill bit on that Tinderbox pipe. It will not gurgle.
That leads me to my Savinelli pipes. I have not had gurgle in my Savinelli pipes, that is until I acquired an estate set of Linea 76 shape 06. I was messing with the cheap pipes and noticed that the Savinelli pipes I had acquired new were drilled already at 5/32nd. The older Savs were not drilled so large. I also had a cheap meerschaum that gurgled constantly and drilled it also. That cleared the pipe from gurgle.
I understand Newcombe is clearly into Danish pipes and into pipes none of us could ever afford, but his time with The Ivarson family and the other Danish pipe makers have given him some great knowledge on the physics of a great smoking pipe.
In close, I agree with the posts in this thread that the physics of the pipe would most likely be the cause of the gurgle. Or soaking wet tobacco.
Well, I tried a few things on the stem, but nothing I can seem to do will reduce the whistle. I made it better by filing the edge down and now it does it only when the bowl gets about halfway down or when lighting, but the rest of the time, I don't really notice it.
I contacted Smoking Pipes to see if they had any of the Peterson stems in stock at all, but it doesn't look like it. Was told I could send it in for repair and it would cost me $40 or have them send it to Peterson for $80, but I only paid a little over $100 for it. At that, I could just buy a whole new one and have two bowls with one stem that worked between them.
I reckon I'm just going to have a whistling pipe. Of course, I could make it my car pipe. Didn't notice the whistle one bit last night on the ride home from work with the radio turned up.
I contacted Smoking Pipes to see if they had any of the Peterson stems in stock at all, but it doesn't look like it. Was told I could send it in for repair and it would cost me $40 or have them send it to Peterson for $80, but I only paid a little over $100 for it. At that, I could just buy a whole new one and have two bowls with one stem that worked between them.
I reckon I'm just going to have a whistling pipe. Of course, I could make it my car pipe. Didn't notice the whistle one bit last night on the ride home from work with the radio turned up.
If the end of the tenon is not countersunk, then I'd use a chamfer bit to smooth out the air stream...
When I purchased my Semi- churchwarden valcano nording it too had a whistle, and I mean a loud whistle. But it stopped making that noice after about 10 bowls or so. I guess whatever was vibrating was covered in carbon or worn away by pipe cleaners. Hope you find a solution because I was super bummed to receive a new pipe and then hear that whistle as soon as I dry puff it.
Yeah, this stem is made a touch differently. When pulled, the end looks as though it has a smaller tenon at the end, then it swells up again to fit inside the military end of the shank. There's another hole diameter up on the inside and I have no way of being able to tell what it looks like as I can't get a light down inside the end without my big head getting in the way.
I don't think you can see it too well, but down inside the larger hole, there's a smaller diameter draft hole that I can't see. It could need to be larger or maybe there's a bur, I don't know, I just can't tell.
Oh ..the dreaded whistler.. had a nice large but inexpensive full bent that did that .. I took a tiny ball end dremel and made the draw hole in the shank oval a bit by the "trap " and it never did it again i believe it was the edge of the stem making it whistle
I’ve got a Butz-Choquin Jumbo 1398 that will whistle if you puff any harder than very slightly. It aggravates the time out of me and I’ve not bought another BC because of it. May be a bit extreme, but...
Anyway, I’m close to taking a needle file to it, just to open the draft hole a tiny bit. I’m not sure I can hurt it. It’s the worst smoking briar I’ve got, so it doesn’t get much use.
That’s it. I’m going to fiddle with it tomorrow while I’m out smoking.
Anyway, I’m close to taking a needle file to it, just to open the draft hole a tiny bit. I’m not sure I can hurt it. It’s the worst smoking briar I’ve got, so it doesn’t get much use.
That’s it. I’m going to fiddle with it tomorrow while I’m out smoking.
My Nording Compass turned out to be a whistler too. Only when you draw/blow in a certain manner, and mostly when it's empty, but it did whistle at least once when smoking it. Ah well.
By the look of the tenon I am wondering if it is made for a filter.All of my Peterson pipes have a smaller hole and thicker tenon wall except for one that was definitely made for a filter.
What is the diameter of the stem opening? is it 9mm (approx 3/8")
What is the diameter of the stem opening? is it 9mm (approx 3/8")
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