Another method was employed by Sailorman Jack. He would rub highly refined
beeswax on his Meerschaums while smoking them. This would melt the wax &
promote absorption by using the heat of the Pipe created by smoking. I'm
not aware if he made a distinction in this method when coloring true Lattice Pipes.
The discussion of rewaxing will continue for as long as there are Pipesters that
smoke Meerschaum Pipes. It's an interesting topic, but should not become more
important than the main event of actually smoking the Meerschaum. I enjoy
looking at Meerschaum art as much as anyone, but I enjoy smoking them more.
What has worked well for me is to wax the Pipe while it's being smoked.
The wax will absorb according to the porosity of the Block and will stop
when saturation has been achieved. The excess will wipe off with a clean
cotton cloth and will enhance the gloss of the finish. This combination of wax,
heat and the byproducts of combustion that accumulate within the Block all
work together over time to color the Pipe. The amount of wax absorbed by
the Block is proportional to it's porosity. Some Pipes will take a large amount
of wax and others will take only a bit at a time. The length of time that the
Pipe's been smoked is also a factor. When I've applied wax to Pipes that have
been in long service, with little attention paid to waxing, the coloring is darker
with wax application & tends to persist for longer periods of time, eventually
resolving into a darker color that is permanent. The quality of Block is the most
important factor in this waxing for color technique, but other factors that will
influence the result are also to be considered. The Pipe's shape, size & mass
present variables to coloration. I've read where Cavendish Tobaks will color
a Meerschaum faster, due to the high content of oils. I cannot speak to
this, as I prefer to smoke Tobaks that I enjoy, which do not generally include
Cavendish blends. For me, the smoking experience that the Meerschaum
affords is most desirable, while the coloring is secondary. Another factor will
be the ambient air temperature. It seems that the Meerschaum breathes more
efficiently on warmer days. On colder days, the Pipe's surface will cool faster
and this seems to slow down the absorptive qualities. Indeed, I've read of
one Pipester's experience of smoking his Meerschaum from start to finish in
subzero temperature, which resulted in the Pipe's color turn to a mottled grey.
In general, it seems that the combination of wax, heat and the byproducts
of smoking the Pipe lead to coloration, over time. Maintaining a clean surface
on the Pipe also seems to matter. The waxing serves to protect the Pipe's
surface, in addition to being a factor in coloration. It has been years since
I've used the CAO Antiquing Compound, but from what I remember, it was a
Beeswax. It may have had other additives or not.
The technique of hot wax application to a Pipe, followed by melting off the
excess with a heat source, is one I employ less frequently. It's just much
easier & convenient for me to wax the Pipe as I smoke it. This practice of
cold wax application also afford opportunity to finish it even after the Pipe has
cooled following a smoke. Sometimes, the Pipe's finish will be a bit rough, as it
has absorbed all of the wax applied to it, leaving the surface unprotected &
textured, like the inside of a bowl of an unsmoked Meerschaum. I'll go ahead
and apply more wax to the Pipe and then follow by buffing it with a white cotton
cloth.
The variations of waxing Meerschaums by the Pipe smoker are many. There
are most likely as many technique styles as there are Pipesters. It is an area
where individual preference and creativity combine with experience to result in
habit. It has been the topic of discussion, for centuries, wherever Meerschaums
are smoked. The goals of the Pipester differ from those of the Carver. While
the Carver employs Beeswax for product quality, the Pipester uses it for coloration
and protection of the patina. I cannot speak to the Carver goals of using
signature wax finishes for effect, as I have little understanding of this part of
the art. I can speak to the Pipester, from my own experiences... I say, smoke
the Pipe & wax as you wish. Let the course of nature proceed over time, but
enjoy the smoke while you wait.
I don't know if these have been posted before but these two pages on the Seattle Pipe Club site offer great information on coloring and Meerschaum care:
Coloring Your Meerschaum Pipe
by Gary B. Schrier
"…some thoughts from the literary world."
Coloring Your Meerschaum Pipe Part II
© Gary B. Schrier
"Some Empirical Evidence" March 2003
As a caution, if you plan on using the hot wax application method, remove the bit from the Pipe, as the heat from the hairdryer will bend the bit. You can apply candle grade Beeswax in liquid form to the Pipe using swabs, as it will clog a brush.
Avoid touching the Block when it is hot, before the wax has been allowed to cool,
following the use of heat to melt it into the Block. At this time, the Block is absorbing the Beeswax, and it will absorb anything that gets on it. Buff it out with a clean, white cotton cloth. For cold waxing the Pipe, while smoking it, it's best to use a refined Beeswax, like Quilters use to strengthen their threads, and can be found in fabric stores. It has a lower melting point and absorbs well, using the heat of the Pipe while it's being smoked.
