Oxidation Removel

[numbersix]

If you soak the stem on oxiclean, will it take the stem marking off? Or is it best to cover the markings with a dab of vaseline before you do the oxi soak?

If it's painted on, it will come off. If it's embedded (like the Dunhill white spot), then it will be okay. When in doubt, dab it out. :wink:

 

[pepesdad1]

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried Mr. Clean Magic Eraser last night on my 50 year old Comoy pipe stems...some elbow grease and they came out looking sweet. They smoke alot better also!

These forums are great..so glad I found you guys.

 

[eazye77]

YOU GUYS ROCK! :worship:
I did the oxiclean method by soaking the stems over night. Then I let them dry for a bit and got the magic eraser again and rubbed them hard. Took the gunk right off. Then I applied some chap stick to the stems and let them sit for about and hour. Buffed them and they look really good now. There not as shinny, but I will work on that later with the oil recommended.
Thanks again!!!!!

 

[numbersix]

Awesome - glad it worked out.

 

[gmwolford]

I almost dropped my pipe when my jaw dropped opened when I read steel wool! 8O It sure sounds like a lot less work than miracle erasers or Bar Keepers Friend so I may give it a try on a old stem to see what results I get. It would be great to eliminate some of the time consuming scrubbing!

 

[numbersix]

BTW: One reason I don't use a magic eraser is that it tends to dull finishes. So personally I would recommend micromesh over a magic eraser. You can work your way through the difference grades. It comes closer to a "polished" finish IMO before even finishing with the obsidian oil (which really makes it shine)

 

[ejames]

I almost dropped my pipe when my jaw dropped opened when I read steel wool! [8O] It sure sounds like a lot less work than miracle erasers or Bar Keepers Friend so I may give it a try on a old stem to see what results I get. It would be great to eliminate some of the time consuming scrubbing!

Steel wool is great stuff! I keep 00 and 0000 on hand for a variety of tasks. On stems it's hard (for me) to get in close to the button with the steel wool so I do that area with sandpaper and a small sanding block or just a folded piece of sandpaper or Micro-Mesh. 0000 is great for polishing any aluminum or nickel also.

You can use steel wool dipped in alcohol or acetone to strip a lacquer finish from a bowl.

 

[numbersix]

@rothnh:

I'm confident that, for puffers like me, Dave Wolff's stem restore kit, or just the cleaning jar from Dave's kit and some Obsidian Oil will maintain all rubber stems, even very old ones, nice and shiny without nearly all that effort as above. That's what I do and it works.

What exactly comes in the Dave Wolff's stem restore kit? I always assumed it was something akin to obsidian oil and micromesh, but you're description intrigues me. ::
EDIT: I just spied the link you provided at top. Sounds interesting and easier - I just may pick one up.

 

[lordofthepiperings]

Where can you get the micro-mesh sandpaper? Is that something you have to swing by a Home Depot or Lowe's type store for?

 

[numbersix]

I got mine through Amazon. I couldn't find it at my Home Depot.

 

[gmwolford]

I can't find micro mesh anywhere other than the net; I hit mine from Amazon, too. The direct source was Peachtree Woodworking in GA (don't remember it but they have a website).

 

[cajunguy]

You can find the micro mesh kits at Alpha Abrasives. It's the first listing on the page. I use these often. They're also cheaper here than most places.

 

[gmwolford]

I thought I'd share my "great discovery" today on this thread:
It has been close to two since I was last at hobby lobby. At that time I noticed they were carrying a few new microabrasive products, but none were find enough for pipe restoration in my opinion. Today I returned looking for a pin vice, and what I found was a whole new selection of micromesh products! There were large micromesh cloths all the way down to the small files and the familiar 2x2 squares, in all grades from about 320 grit all the way up to 12,000. If there's a hobby lobby close to you it would be worth your while to look there and see if you they are carrying the new micromesh products too. The prices were good, probably even better than what I have been getting them off of Amazon for.

 

[numbersix]

That's cool Greg - nice to be able to find it local.
And thanks cajunguy for the link too: Alpha Abrasives.

 

[gmwolford]

That's cool Greg - nice to be able to find it local.
And thanks cajunguy for the link too: Alpha Abrasives.

No problem. And BYW these are Alpha Abrasives products.

 

[shaintiques]

Alright I just started soaking 3 stems in the oxyclean. We will see how they clean up in the morning

 

[gmwolford]

I did a bit of an experiment with this Sunday night/Monday morning; here are my results Alternative Oxidation Removal Methods.

 

[aristokles]

I use the cheap Dollar Tree Magic Eraser knockoffs, stem polish to shine, mineral oil to finish. I've done the bleach-thing, the Oxiclean-thing and the No-thing, and this works best for me.

 

[cajunguy]

Hey guys, thought I'd add a bit more to the conversation (although its not directly related to oxidation). In terms of reducing teeth marks and whatnot, I found these guys. I purchased a set and just received them a few days ago. I used them today on my restorations:

There are two sets available for a total of eight sanding grits. For someone who has carpal tunnel issues, these things are a lifesaver. Plus, a little mechanical advantage added by the tool and the angled heads makes these nice instruments with a lot of utility. Saved me some time, saved my hands a lot of pain. Thought I'd mention 'em since we're talking stems. I haven't used them on a stummel yet, but I'm sure they will come in handy at some point.
You can find them at Woodcraft. The ones I linked are the "lighter" set (240-600 grit).

 

[gmwolford]

Cajunguy, those are pretty interesting! I may have to check into those myself.