Opening the Draw - Drill Bit Size

[The Amish Tyrant]

I prefer an open draw. For example, Missouri Meerschaum without filters provide my favorite draw.

While I am slowly culling the heard of pipes (two down, several to go), there is at least one I'd really like to save in the discard pile. However, the draw is so tight that smoking it is not enjoyable.

I've read using a drill bit in the stem and shank may be the answer. What is the recommended size?

For what it's worth, I'm not the best with tools and realize I may ruin this particular pipe (which will get tossed if I botch the job). Any tips or suggestions along the way?

 

[sablebrush52]

Any tips or suggestions along the way?

Don't do anything unless you have a rig that will hold the potential casualties in exact alignment.

Are you sure that the draft hole in the shank is too tight? The reason I ask is that I had one pipe that had a very tight draw and the culprit was the manner in which that the stem airway transition into the slot had been screwed up. Some very careful filing cured the problem.

 

[warren]

If I were you, I'm not, I'd check bits against the bit and airway of a Missouri Meerschaum. Find the one that just fits, chuck it into the drill and bore away. Then you can happily and, without guilt, toss the pipe in the bin.

 

[Winnipeger]

I went nuts on a MM acrylic stem one night after a few too many Lagavulins. I do not recommend this. The draw on the stem was way too tight and I figured, before chucking the pipe, why not see if I couldn't fix the problem. I probably wrapped it in a rag before sticking it in the vice as a precaution against crushing it. Clamped tight enough so as not to wobble about, I hand drilled straight down the bore hole (with a power drill). I assume I used a 1/8" drill bit. The stem almost cracked, but despite a little deformity on the bottom, it held together fine and smokes beautifully now.

I recently opened the airway on a newly acquired Ropp, just enough to help it pass a pipe cleaner. This method may be commendable, unless one of the experts says nay. I just picked a bit the same size as the existing bore hole and twisted it in and out by hand few times until the hole loosened up a little until I could slide the bit gently in and out without twisting. Then I grabbed a slightly wider bit and did the same thing again. Holding the bit with pliers or a vice and carefully twisting the stummel down onto it can be helpful. That was all it took and now the pipe can pass a cleaner more easily.

Edit: Maybe this is obvious, but just be sure to watch inside the chamber until you see the tip of the bit, so as not to overshoot the chamber floor.

 

[hoosierpipeguy]

I went nuts on a MM acrylic stem one night after a few too many Lagavulins. I do not recommend this. The draw on the stem was way too tight and I figured, before chucking the pipe, why not see if I couldn't fix the problem. I probably wrapped it in a rag before sticking it in the vice as a precaution against crushing it. Clamped tight enough so as not to wobble about, I hand drilled straight down the bore hole (with a power drill). I assume I used a 1/8" drill bit. The stem almost cracked, but despite a little deformity on the bottom, it held together fine and smokes beautifully now.

I recently opened the airway on a newly acquired Ropp, just enough to help it pass a pipe cleaner. This method may be commendable, unless one of the experts says nay. I just picked a bit the same size as the existing bore hole and twisted it in and out by hand few times until the hole loosened up a little until I could slide the bit gently in and out without twisting. Then I grabbed a slightly wider bit and did the same thing again. Holding the bit with pliers or a vice and carefully twisting the stummel down onto it can be helpful. That was all it took and now the pipe can pass a cleaner more easily.
View attachment 256956
Edit: Maybe this is obvious, but just be sure to watch inside the chamber until you see the tip of the bit, so as not to overshoot the chamber floor.

I think the approach you took in the second paragraph would be optimal for amateurs who lack experience and tools. If I had a pipe that meant much or was valuable, I'd send it to a pro and let them do the heavy lifting.

 

[huntertrw]

Rick Newcombe recommends that the draft-hole in the shank be opened to approximately 5/32". Using a 5/32" drill-bit, I've tried this with several of the poorer-performing pipes in my collection and have been amazed at the improvement in their smoking quality.

 

[frozenchurchwarden]

I prefer an open draw. For example, Missouri Meerschaum without filters provide my favorite draw.

While I am slowly culling the heard of pipes (two down, several to go), there is at least one I'd really like to save in the discard pile. However, the draw is so tight that smoking it is not enjoyable.

I've read using a drill bit in the stem and shank may be the answer. What is the recommended size?

For what it's worth, I'm not the best with tools and realize I may ruin this particular pipe (which will get tossed if I botch the job). Any tips or suggestions along the way?

https://vermontfreehand.com/product/fuller-taper-point-drill-bits/

Just make sure to get a taper point drill bit and they're pretty
well self aligning, so much so that I believe it's easier to screw up enlarging the draft hole if you use a vice.
(Normal drill bits WILL wander off center.)

For what it's worth I've drilled out pretty much every one of my 50+ pipes by hand (hold the drill in your dominant hand and the pipe stem in the other).
Get a grippy rubber glove for the stem, hang on tight, and pull the drill out to clear the shavings frequently (e.g. every 1/4" or so), acrylic stems can heat up enough to bind with the shavings and fuse the drill bit inside the stem (happened to me once on a long Churchwarden stem).

 

[RustiePyles CPG]

Tuning up a gurgler. :: Pipe Repair and Maintenance

Disclaimer: I am not advocating “opening up” your pipes, if you don’t have a basic understanding of hand tools and precision measuring please do not try and modify your Ivarsons and Dunhills. This is not a cure all for poor smoking habits, glycol soaked aros, high humidity, and improperly broke...

pipesmagazine.com

 

[hoosierpipeguy]

There's another alternative. But pipes from Jack Howell, Ryan Alden or Jose Rubio and the drills will be the right size and the draws perfect from the first smoke.

 

[UB 40]

As long as it is not a 1000 bucks pipe I would try it. Try to fit a metal drill into the shank hole to get an idea of the actual measuring. Mm cobs easily go up to 5 or 6 millimetres at the draft hole.

If you got that done and one drill fits more or less tightly you have an idea of the measurements and a clue about the right path. Then use a tapered drill (expensive) of the desirable size. Or Go for the next drill size in the box and open it up step by step, turning the drill chuck slowly by hand looking forward not to hit the bowl on the opposite side. Take your time use your senses.

Opening up an acrylic or ebonite stem is a much harder task, you can do that only with a tapered drill of suitable length, taking care not to drill through the bit. But maybe it’s not necessary, once you opened up the draft hole.

 

[UB 40]

You can also try just to adapt your habits of stuffing and draw to the pipe.

 

[ThermionicScott]

I would definitely try drawing on both the stem and shank first to see which one is doing the restricting.

 

[sablebrush52]

Rick Newcombe recommends that the draft-hole in the shank be opened to approximately 5/32". Using a 5/32" drill-bit, I've tried this with several of the poorer-performing pipes in my collection and have been amazed at the improvement in their smoking quality.

I like the more open draw of modern artisanal pipes, but I also find that the bore of traditional pipes works just as well for me. I know it's heresy, but I think that the great British makers had a clue about how to make their pipes.

One problem I have found with open draws is that they don't work especially well with very finely cut ribbons, which get sucked up into the airway and into my mouth.

 

[Sigmund]

I did it today with an old Ropp I refurbished. The stem was the old thin type. A normal cleaner wouldn’t pass through. No I dont do this to valuable pipes.

 

[frozenchurchwarden]

I would definitely try drawing on both the stem and shank first to see which one is doing the restricting.

It's highly likely the airway through the shank and bowl is already 4mm, many manufacturers already use a wide bore in the stummel because you're never going to blow up the pipe drilling that big going through a block of briar, whereas you need to be careful not to get too close to the button if you bore out the stem.
And also most saddle stems are very restricted in the maximum bore diameter, usually I can only get about halfway down those stems.

 

[troutface]

Rick Newcombe recommends that the draft-hole in the shank be opened to approximately 5/32". Using a 5/32" drill-bit, I've tried this with several of the poorer-performing pipes in my collection and have been amazed at the improvement in their smoking quality.

I'm a crazy man, I go 11/64" ! That's 4.36mm, which is close to what some of the Italians drill their pipes. Plus I can say my pipes go to eleven .

 

[ThermionicScott]

It's highly likely the airway through the shank and bowl is already 4mm, many manufacturers already use a wide bore in the stummel because you're never going to blow up the pipe drilling that big going through a block of briar, whereas you need to be careful not to get too close to the button if you bore out the stem.
And also most saddle stems are very restricted in the maximum bore diameter, usually I can only get about halfway down those stems.

Yeah. I see a lot of posts in this thread already about boring out the stummel/draft hole, but my pipes with 3mm draft holes seem to pass plenty of air if the stem is good.

 

[UB 40]

Yeah. I see a lot of posts in this thread already about boring out the stummel/draft hole, but my pipes with 3mm draft holes seem to pass plenty of air if the stem is good.

I drilled some of my first pipes to 3 mm and they smoke nice, the recents I drilled the draft hole to 4 mm and they smoke even nicer, opening up the bit in the stem in V-shape with a flat file down the shank to 25 mm. That alone does a lot to open the draw.

 

[Duck]

My tuppence worth: If you don't have precision equipment like a metal lathe then use an old fashioned bit and brace. An electric drill is less accurate and less forgiving. You already have a guide hole, and if you increase the bore in 1mm increments it's not only safer, but you can test the draw after each increment.

 

[georged]

Regarding better or worse smoking being related to airway size, there are lots of examples "proving" every choice people make.

Ignore all claims. EVERY PIPE IS DIFFERENT

The rule: Don't mess with it unless it repeatedly smokes badly, and stop increasing the airway size when/if improvement occurs.

I'd say that 80% of the time bigger will help when normal/average doesn't get a pipe with the program.


As for the technique, this is easy and takes 95% of potential screw-ups off the board from the beginning: