Opening the Draw - Drill Bit Size

[emac.917]

Rick Newcombe recommends that the draft-hole in the shank be opened to approximately 5/32". Using a 5/32" drill-bit, I've tried this with several of the poorer-performing pipes in my collection and have been amazed at the improvement in their smoking quality.

I just read Newcombe’s In Search of Pipe Dreams, and now I’m tempted to have one of my pipes modified just to experience the difference in draw.

In one chapter, he says he likes to have his pipes drilled between 11/64 and 3/16, have you tried comparing different sized draft holes?

@troutface mentioned above that he goes to 11/64. I’m inspired!

 

[Sobrbiker]

Shanks-I’ve had good luck with 5/32, by hand chucked in a small tap handle.
I like my stummels’ airways to take a tightly doubled pipe cleaner.

Stems-I tread carefully. I’ve had luck with small flat and tapered round files, and chamfer most tenon ends that aren’t already to a 60* chamfer.
I’ve straightened, drilled and re-bent one acrylic stem, but most have been vulcanite.

 

[kcghost]

This sounds like a sure cause of disaster, but you guys seem to have made your minds up that this is a good idea. If you're not very good with tools you shouldn't do this. See @georged comments above.

 

[emac.917]

Shanks-I’ve had good luck with 5/32, by hand chucked in a small tap handle.
I like my stummels’ airways to take a tightly doubled pipe cleaner.

Stems-I tread carefully. I’ve had luck with small flat and tapered round files, and chamfer most tenon ends that aren’t already to a 60* chamfer.
I’ve straightened, drilled and re-bent one acrylic stem, but most have been vulcanite.

Nice.

With regards to the stem, I’ve read on a different thread that beveling/funneling the end of the tenon (if it is flat) improves airflow into the stem.

I’m curious if anyone has experience with that type of mod.

 

[emac.917]

This sounds like a sure cause of disaster, but you guys seem to have made your minds up that this is a good idea. If you're not very good with tools you shouldn't do this. See @georged comments above.

Very true. I’m not going to attempt anything myself. If anything, I’ll send out to a pro. I suppose this is more of an intellectual curiosity for now

 

[Sobrbiker]

Nice.

With regards to the stem, I’ve read on a different thread that beveling/funneling the end of the tenon (if it is flat) improves airflow into the stem.

I’m curious if anyone has experience with that type of mod.

That’s exactly what I’m talking about when I say I chamfer the tenon end of the stem. I noticed a couple very talented restorers doing it here.

Before and after of a Pete Spprtsman 87 I chamfered.
It gurgled pretty quickly with what and how I smoke, and the chamfer all but eliminated the issue.

 

[emac.917]

That’s exactly what I’m talking about when I say I chamfer the tenon end of the stem. I noticed a couple very talented restorers doing it here.

Very cool. I’ve learned a new term in the process. Thanks for sharing your experience with it. Definitely something I will look into.

 

[xrundog]

Having worked on a lot of pipes, from antiques to modern, I can say that most pipe shanks will pass a 1/8” drill bit. Which is plenty big. If it’s smaller, and the pipe gurgles or smokes wet, I’ll check the size and drill it to the next drill bit. The bit takes the path of least resistance and follows the existing airway.
Stem airways are all over the place. Coning the tenon can help. On a bent pipe sometimes the airway got flattened when it was bent. Some people straighten the stem, drill it and re-bend it. I just take a kemper saw and run it through the bend to remove some material. This works pretty well.
Some older Italian acrylic stems are weirdly tight. I’ve found that a 3/32 bit will pass the bit without damaging it. It’s not a large bit. If an airway is smaller than 3/32”, it’s too small.

 

[frozenchurchwarden]

I cannot fathom how we live in a world where these tools exist and yet the vast majority of high end pipes still ship with a narrow and restrictive slot.

 

[emac.917]

That’s exactly what I’m talking about when I say I chamfer the tenon end of the stem.

I was just cleaning my Stanwell 190, and I noticed that the tenon already had a (slight) chamfer. I bought it new, so I suppose they do it at the factory.

Perhaps that’s one of the reasons why this pipe has a nice smooth draw and has organically become my top smoker.

Very cool to learn these things in a practical setting.

 

[Briarcutter]

As Sobrbiker mentioned, a tap handle is a great idea. I use them often when re-drilling a existing hole, the Electric drill can "grab" then before you know it the force will pull that drill where you don't want it to go, it can destroy your mouthpiece, a tap handle will reduce this risk. Re- grinding the 59 degree drill point to a full radius drastically reduces the potential to grab, but to re-grind you must be familiar with tool grinding. All my tools for this type of application have re-ground points. IMO, a tap handle is essential if your going to re-drill an airway. Takes a bit more time but will save you from drilling through the stummel or spliting the mouthpiece. A three fluit 82 deg. countersink works great for the chamfer on the tennon,I'd use a tap handle for this also.

 

[emac.917]

Came across an interesting tool on rebornpipes while geeking out on airway mods. Photo below.


Has anyone used this type of reamer to funnel a tenon before?


Also, does anyone know if there is an appreciable difference in airflow performance between funneling and chamfering the tenon?

 

[bullet08]

I'm lucky Peterson fits my draw. But I think the drill in Senior reamer might be the size.