Newbie Starting Restoring.

orlandofurioso · Oct 15, 2023

Tate said:
Here are a few stem fixes. Flame wasn't getting this out. I already had the black super glue for a guitar fix I did in the past. I used some of that and charcoal caps that I emptied
Befores
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Afters.
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Not quite invisible but close enough for me. Definitely learned on this batch how to do it and what to do a bit different for invisible, I think. Will need to do more to see.

With me the mixture always dried instantly and for that reason it did put me off. Super glue works much better on acrylic stems, the glue actually is similar to acrylic and acrylic has no "memory" unlike ebonite.
George is of course correct about the G-flex ; I use this stuff:

Stewart-MacDonald Epoxy - StewMac

High quality clear and black epoxies.

www.stewmac.com

Not sure about how flexible it is ( some two-part-epoxies are ) .
Meanwhile forwarded my inquiry concerning the flex to Stew Mac.

Tate · Oct 15, 2023

orlandofurioso said:
With me the mixture always dried instantly and for that reason it did put me off. Super glue works much better on acrylic stems, the glue actually is similar to acrylic and acrylic has no "memory" unlike ebonite.
George is of course correct about the G-flex ; I use this stuff:

Stewart-MacDonald Epoxy - StewMac

High quality clear and black epoxies.

www.stewmac.com

Not sure about how flexible it is ( some two-part-epoxies are ), but I'm no clencher.

Got some Gflex on the way. The Stew Mac stuff is good I've used it on guitars

orlandofurioso · Oct 15, 2023

Tate said:
Got some Gflex on the way. The Stew Mac stuff is good I've used it on guitars

Does the Stew Mac have some flex you reckon ?
I assume it should be ably to withstand some wood movement ?

Tate · Oct 15, 2023

orlandofurioso said:
Does the Stew Mac have some flex you reckon ?
I assume it should be ably to withstand some wood movement ?

Hard for me to say with confidence. I mainly used it on the fret board around inlays and a tad on the body of the guitar its self. The wood does flex but I don't know if it would to the degree of clenching.

orlandofurioso · Oct 15, 2023

All right, I'll post Stew Mac's reply.

Tate · Oct 15, 2023

orlandofurioso said:
All right, I'll post Stew Mac's reply.

Sweet!

orlandofurioso · Oct 16, 2023

Hello Tate,
This is what Geoff from Stew Mac replied :
The two part Epoxy may have some flex when first applied or if some heat is added, however, beyond 8 hours and especially with a full cure time of 24 hours, this should be very rigid.

Due to the hardness, it will certainly move with the wood and not act as a dampener of resonance, however, epoxy is typically used in applications that no movement is desired such as inlays, fingerboards, headplates, or neck/tail blocks. Otherwise, once bonded, this bond will indeed last despite most movement the wood may undergo as a result of temperature changes, however, this could potentially weaken a joint over time somewhat.

Tate · Oct 16, 2023

orlandofurioso said:
Hello Tate,
This is what Geoff from Stew Mac replied :
The two part Epoxy may have some flex when first applied or if some heat is added, however, beyond 8 hours and especially with a full cure time of 24 hours, this should be very rigid.

Yeah the stewmac stuff isn't flexible in the traditional sense but I don't know if the gflex will be either. It seems like it is more speaking to how much it will flex at a molecular level almost. Or how much it will deflect before breaking. Does that make sense?

orlandofurioso · Oct 16, 2023

Tate said:
Yeah the stewmac stuff isn't flexible in the traditional sense but I don't know if the gflex will be either. It seems like it is more speaking to how much it will flex at a molecular level almost. Or how much it will deflect before breaking. Does that make sense?

It makes perfect sense and I am content with the answer

Tate · Oct 16, 2023

orlandofurioso said:
It makes perfect sense and I am content with the answer

Awesome!

kcghost · Oct 16, 2023

There are a number of videos on how to restore pipes on YouTube.

Tate · Oct 16, 2023

I've been watching a bunch. Mainly CanerodPiper and the ones linked on the last page.

Tate · Oct 18, 2023

I got a real project piece in. It's a Dunhill I was able to get real cheap. I'll upload some photos so you guys can see why. Lol but should be fun to work on this weekend.

Sobrbiker · Oct 19, 2023

I enjoy cleaning up/working on old estates, especially as a late onset pipester newbie myself.

Are you using powered polishing tools? As I’m a clencher, I pay particular attention to the sharp edges of the bit. Most mid century American estates I’ve gotten have already experienced some “rounding” of bit edges and I more often than not now just make it a part of the stem cleanup to sharpen up the bit edges (and open orifices/draft holes with files, etc) to my liking before sanding/polishing.
I’ve taken to hand polishing with micromesh pads almost exclusively, because most of the power tools will be in my shop. Said shop on the property we moved to back in May is not weatherproof and dusty, and I’m just now redoing the electrical service in there.
But back to bits and power-care must be well exercised to not round sharp corners of shank junction and bit edges. I’ll ultimately reserve power polishing to final buffing/carnauba waxing. A smaller variable speed polisher may wind up in my office/reloading room inside down the road though.

Fun stuff for sure, and my goal is my enjoyment of my finds, not archival collector grade finishing-YMMV

Oh yeah, I’ve found stepping outside to check stemwork in full bright sunlight the best way to tell if all the oxidation removal work truly worked-it sucks to spend a lot of time and effort indoors only to let the sunshine later expose oxidation missed in early stages of the work

Tate · Oct 19, 2023

The sun is a very honest critic indeed!

I have noticed the sun shows more for sure. Almost like you can see it under the shine in the sun.

I pretty much only use the micromesh as well. Most of the ones I got were pretty rounded by the time I got em and the Dunill is actually missing a chuck out of the stem near the bit.

orlandofurioso · Oct 19, 2023

Tate said:
The sun is a very honest critic indeed! I have noticed the sun shows more for sure. Almost like you can see it under the shine in the sun.

I pretty much only use the micromesh as well. Most of the ones I got were pretty rounded by the time I got em and the Dunill is actually missing a chuck out of the stem near the bit.

My friend is my sunshine; I always hand over my refurbished pipes for her stern and very honest assessment.

Tate · Oct 30, 2023

Tate said:
I got a real project piece in. It's a Dunhill I was able to get real cheap. I'll upload some photos so you guys can see why. Lol but should be fun to work on this weekend.

A little delayed but here is the stem

should be fun!

jpmcwjr · Oct 30, 2023

Hope your project turns out great. Photos, then, please!

Tate · Oct 30, 2023

jpmcwjr said:
Hope your project turns out great. Photos, then, please!

Thanks. You got it.

Tate · Nov 17, 2023

This is a Dunhill shell 59 from 1926. It has a replacement stem. Probably would have been easier to just buy a replacement stem but wanted to try fills and replacing missing material.
Befores