I get better/deeper results vs doing it the opposite. Guy on another forum told me that trick, I tried it, and darned if it didn’t produce better results vs going 3400 to 12k. I don’t really know why, but it does.Wow, no kidding. Glassy! But I don't understand the 12k to 3400 progression.
Looks good!Did this with micro mesh pads. I was pleased with how the brown tones gradually disappeared.
Now I've learned there are also sticks, like emery boards. Those would have helped greatly on the underside of the bit.
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Interesting I‘m going to have to research this more. Painted a few things and always done it from a lower grade to high grade. Really curious how it works with the lower grade having rougher surface. I know, I know 3500 doesn’t have that rough of a surface.I get better/deeper results vs doing it the opposite. Guy on another forum told me that trick, I tried it, and darned if it didn’t produce better results vs going 3400 to 12k. I don’t really know why, but it does.
Nice job! From many years pipe restoration experience, I will caution that you don't want to round over the stem button or the edge where the stem meets the shank. The boards you mention as well as painters tape can help there. Keep it up!Did this with micro mesh pads. I was pleased with how the brown tones gradually disappeared.
Now I've learned there are also sticks, like emery boards. Those would have helped greatly on the underside of the bit.
View attachment 80583
Well this is really interesting. I don't understand it but I am sure gonna try it! I sure can't argue with the great results that @Aomalley27 got.Wow, no kidding. Glassy! But I don't understand the 12k to 3400 progression