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Jan 8, 2013
7,493
733
I've been hard at work today and incorporated some fluting. Most of the Danish style freehands I've seen and love have more of a floral look to their fluting, with graceful curving lines that "petal" at the top, like a flower. I originally was going to do just that, but looking at this pipe with its heavy, curving, and almost dangerous looking appearance into what I can only think to call a freehand pickaxe type shape, I decided to give it a more dangerously graceful appearance.I thought what if a battle hardened mythical warrior, freshly returning from a long fought battle against dragons and goblins, trolls and orcs and undead asked me to carve him a pipe, what would it look like? I don't know if I pulled it off, but I think it looks pretty dang cool.
The fluting was actually quite easy and took much less time than I thought it would. I traded in the big bulky wood rasp for a half round pointed needle file, drew the lines on the pipe with a pencil where I wanted to carve, and got to work. This part of the project was actually quite fun, and I'm thinking I'll do it with more pipes in the future. I've also began sanding to get rid of any scratches or bumpy spots.
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Jan 8, 2013
7,493
733
Thanks Mojoe :) It's a bit slow going, but I'm having a ton of fun doing it. I'm currently, while working my way up on sanding grit, trying to figure out what I should do with the plateau top. I was browsing a pipe makers forum and it seems they just stain it and shellac it. Most freehands with plateau I've seen have a black stained plateau, but I may use a light brown stain or just leave it natural. Not sure yet, but I'm leaning toward black as well. I just got my stain the other day and tested it out on some scrap and I think it's going to be a good color. However, I may dilute it a bit for a lighter color. You can't see it well in the photos, but the grain is outstanding. I wiped it down with a damp cloth earlier this evening and the grain really came out to say hello. I'm pretty excited about it. :D

 

gmwolford

Lifer
Jul 26, 2012
1,355
5
WV, USA
I really love this pipe, how it's slowly emerging.
In the plateau, maybe stain it black or dark brown (I lesn toward dark brown) and then take it off the "nubs" and apply a diluted, lighter brown for a nice contrast?

 

brdavidson

Lifer
Dec 30, 2012
2,017
5
Anthony, this is fantastic work, seriously good! When I first saw this thread with the make your own pipe I kept saying to myself I have to do this. After this I think I'm going to give it a whirl and see what happens. I doubt it will look this nice but I think I'll enjoy it as well. Hats off sir to an amazing job for a first pipe!
Brian

 

huntertrw

Lifer
Jul 23, 2014
5,223
5,347
The Lower Forty of Hill Country
anthonyrosenthal74:
Watching your pipe progress is like seeing one of those time-lapse nature films which shows the growth and blossoming of a flower - VERY IMPRESSIVE. You seem to have a gift for pipe-making, Sir!

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
733
Thanks everyone for the very kind words! Sorry it's taking so long to finish, but I'm working on it when I can after work, and as I acquire more supplies. When I'm not working on it, I'm reading here or watching Youtube videos and reading anything I can that might help me out as far as staining and buffing. I want to be ready to dive in when I get to that point. I love freehand pipes, so actually making one for myself is pretty darn cool. I know for a fact there will be more to come after this one is finished. Besides what's the point in getting all the stuff I needed to make this one... just to make one? :D

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
733
I took the day off of from the bowl yesterday (mostly) and I've been sanding down the stem. It's scary business, although I'm probably making it out to be far worse than it really is. I just want a good looking stem for my first pipe and don't want to screw it up. I'm not doing much to it other than thinning it out a bit really but I can't help but worry. I ended up with a white marble stem when I ordered, because Vermont Freehand was out of my first two options. But that's ok. I have no white stemmed pipes, and I think it will be a nice different touch... something that says, "Hey! Look at me!"
I've also been experimenting with the contrast finish on some scrap pieces of briar left over from this pipe. Nothing special, just a black and light brown contrast. Note to others using Fiebing's leather dye... Light Brown is a bit on the dark side, I think. My best results so far in getting the black to seep into the grain was by wetting the briar down a bit with some denatured alcohol. I read this opens the grain up so that it will soak in the stain better. I had no idea how long to let it rest afterward before adding stain, so I simply let it sit about 10 minutes. Then I lathered the black dye on pretty good, lit it on fire (this is also supposed to help set the stain into the grain)and then lathered some more black stain on for good measure. I understand you're supposed to let it sit for 24 to 48 hours before sanding it off, but I'm just experimenting and sanded off the black after about 12 hours with 400 grit sandpaper. The black seems to have seeped into the grain pretty good this time around. I diluted the brown stain with some denatured alcohol before applying this time. However I'll probably dilute it a bit more for the pipe. I'll probably use the same method on the pipe itself, but I'll let the black sit 48 hours before sanding it off with 600 grit and dilute the brown just a bit more.
For the plateau top, I think I'm going to stain it black and then lightly sand the hills or nubs (for lack of a better word)before adding brown to highlight. Somebody here gave me that idea... can't remember who. I was going to shellac the plateau after that, but Zack advises against that and says I should stick with wax. So I'm likely going to do what he thinks is best. My only concern is wax buildup in the plateau. I'm afraid I might get some unsightly white streaks or marks mixed in there. I did break down and purchase some buffing wheels and arbor for the hand drill so the hand buffing idea is out the window now. However, except for the waxing and buffing procedure I'll still be able to say it was all done completely by hand with no power tools. And I'm pretty proud of that considering how it's turned out so far. I'm coming to the final stages now. Just a little more sanding to do, a little more stem work (worried about the bending process) and then staining, buffing and waxing. I'll update more later :)

 

huntertrw

Lifer
Jul 23, 2014
5,223
5,347
The Lower Forty of Hill Country
"My only concern is wax buildup in the plateau. I'm afraid I might get some unsightly white streaks or marks mixed in there."
Simply use a discarded (or even new) toothbrush with firm bristles to worry the wax out of the cracks and crevices. It will also do a surprisingly good job polishing the waxed plateau wood.
Hope this suggestion helps!

 

mojoe

Might Stick Around
Jan 6, 2015
89
1
Kansas City
Hey Anthony.....sounds like you have some good ideas planned. As for your concern about excessive wax, get your buff spinning and simply touch a small amount of wax to the buff itself. Then run your pipe lightly across the buff....this should keep your wax layer very thin, and since buffs are generally made of several thin layers of material, you should be able to get into the nooks and crannies pretty well. Just remember, wax likes to be applied THIN.....I've learned this the hard way in my woodturning. And let me tell you, removing excess wax is a pain. Just give it one or two very light coats of wax and see how it looks....even set it on the shelf and look at it for a day or two, then decide if it needs something else.
Good Luck Brother, I can't wait to see the finished product, especially with the white stem!

 

joeahearn

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 30, 2012
286
1
I came to this thread late, but I have to say you're making a beaut of a pipe, Anthony.

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
733
Thanks, Cajun and Joeahearn :)
Ok... whew! I can breath now! I just finished bending the stem (scary business) and I'm pretty pleased with the bend I put in it. I tried the boiling water method. I brought water to a boil and then took it off the burner and dipped the stem in there and let it sit for 5 minutes... and nothing. So I did it again... and nothing. So I left it on the burner and let the stem rest in water as it still boiled. I accomplished a tiny bend. So I left it in there even longer and not much difference. So I lit a candle and did the candle method. Much better, but scary as all heck doing it. Even with a pipe cleaner in the stem I was afraid I might accidently close up the airway, but I ended up doing ok. The bend appears straight has a nice rounded bend and doesn't appear to be twisted. Maybe next time I won't be so nervous about it. :)

 

phil67

Lifer
Dec 14, 2013
2,052
7
Once again, some great work there! I'm way behind on mine and at a stand still as I'm still working on the motor and parts for buffing/sanding and wiring it up to a VFD, which it seems, must be inclosed in a God approved box with a ventilation fan! No rush as it's colder than a meat locker in my workroom which doesn't help at all with my occasional tendinitis flair ups in my hand. Just take your time on that stem and I'm sure and it will end up looking great. :wink:

 

mojoe

Might Stick Around
Jan 6, 2015
89
1
Kansas City
Well...Thanks Anthony...you gave me the bug. I just roughed out a poker, drilled the bowl and draft hole as well. Now I'll need to track down a stem and start shaping. Since this will be a practice run, I used what I had in the shop......walnut. I've read it's not the best, as it can "burn through" quicker than one would like, but it should serve as a good practice run.

 
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