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Jan 8, 2013
7,493
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Well I'm still hard at work on this thing and believe it or not it's starting to look like a pipe :) I've got the initial shape down, but I'm still going to take off some more briar. This thing was a beast of a block, and still is. Luckily my knuckles haven't taken too much of a beating, but I can tell you knuckles and wood rasps are not friends. Skin comes off much easier than wood. :D
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I gotta tell you all, this is a lot of work but it's really a blast. Watching it slowly take shape is rewarding and a lot of fun. I guarantee you, I'll be doing another one soon after this one is finished.
Question to anyone who might know.... What is a quick easy way of removing the bark from the plateau. I'll need to know pretty soon.

 
Jan 8, 2013
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Thanks Ivape. Yeah I'm about to order some black and light brown dyes from Vermont Freehand. I've still a bit of shaping to do to it first and i'm trying to get the bravery (it's a bit cold out) to step outside to do so.

 

yazamitaz

Lifer
Mar 1, 2013
1,757
1
Anthony,
That looks FANTASTIC. I can't believe you took that Redwood round and rasped and sanded it down to that beauty. Are you turning a stem as well or are you going to buy one????

 

huntertrw

Lifer
Jul 23, 2014
5,279
5,532
The Lower Forty of Hill Country
anthonyrosenthal74:
I LIKE it, Sir! Your labors look to be well worth the sweat (and blood) invested so far, and it is my hope that this pipe becomes a faithful and favored companion to you for years to come.
I'm curious: did you see this shape in the raw block, or did it evolve as you worked it?

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
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@ Yazmataz. Thanks! :) I actually ordered a premade stem, however it is very thick and I will be attempting to reshape it with some files.
@Hunter Thank you, Sir! :) In answer to your question, both! :) Much of the shape I actually had in my mind upon seeing the block before I ordered it... however it has also evolved as I've worked. What started out as a bent dublin freehand much like many Nordings or Ben Wades (etc etc etc) began to evolve into more of a pickaxe shape, and I just kind of went with it. I think at this point, the briar is doing most of the work and I'm just a couple hands holding the tools. :D

 

newbroom

Lifer
Jul 11, 2014
6,130
6,826
Florida
I got to this party late. I saw something perhaps a little different with the possibilities shown in the op.

Tuliped edgework at the rim and shank involving the plateaux.

You have done a fantastic job either way, and I like the idea of some contrast in the stain, and leaving it almost natural. (you might try finishing it in natural first and consider changing it) A great addition to the "make a kit pipe" thread!

Thanks for sharing!

mike

 

phil67

Lifer
Dec 14, 2013
2,052
7
You did one hell of a great job considering that you used only hand tools!

If by chance you decide upon a smooth finish you'll have to bring that down to about 1000+ grit before you apply any stain. I brought mine down to 4000 grit, but that's just simply over kill on my part. Looking forward to seeing it's further progress. :wink:

 

zack24

Lifer
May 11, 2013
1,726
2
What is a quick easy way of removing the bark from the plateau
Get a cheap brass brush with a handle...and brush away...Rotating brass brushes also work very well...
....on the subject of staining- don't sand past 600 before you stain. Once you stain, let it rest for 24-48 hours...sand it down with 600 grit and you'll find all the scratches you missed the first time...and then stain it again...

 

phil67

Lifer
Dec 14, 2013
2,052
7
....on the subject of staining- don't sand past 600 before you stain. Once you stain, let it rest for 24-48 hours...sand it down with 600 grit and you'll find all the scratches you missed the first time...and then stain it again...
Good to know zack. With that said, what are the disadvantages of sanding it to a very high grit before staining? Will the briar not not accept the stain as well, or is it just simply a matter of it not being necessary?

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
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@Zack... I've seen some of your pipes and I'm going to take your word for it. I'm guessing you're saying that some scratches might not show up until after sanding the stain down and if I move to super high grit too soon, I'll still have some possibly deep scratches the high grit won't take care of. Thanks for the tip, and for the wire brush tip as well.
@Newbroom... The tuliped edgework at the rim and shank have been in the plan since the beginning. :)
@Phil... I was planning on gradually working my way up to 2000 grit and perhaps wetsanding at the 2000.
Thanks everyone for the tips and for the compliments... of course now I'm REALLY going to feel bad if I miss this up :lol: The last time I worked with wood (except framing houses in my 20s... but that's totally different) I was in junior high and I just cut a flat piece of balsa wood into the shape of a duck on a jigsaw :rofl:

 

phil67

Lifer
Dec 14, 2013
2,052
7
@Phil... I was planning on gradually working my way up to 2000 grit and perhaps wetsanding at the 2000.
I would hold off on bringing it down that far. According to zack it's only necessary to bring it to 600 grit and zack is a very accomplished pipe maker so I'm sure he knows full well what he is talking about. But, I'd still like to know what the drawbacks are if one goes beyond 600 grit before staining.

 

zack24

Lifer
May 11, 2013
1,726
2
I'd still like to know what the drawbacks are if one goes beyond 600 grit before staining.

@phil - That bit of advice came from Jeff Gracik - he also suggested letting the briar rest for 24 hours after staining...the idea being that the stain will be a little blotchy- the pipe should also be handled with cotton gloves at that stage to prevent contamination from skin oil...
On my finishing, I use a soft padded wheel with 600 grit for sanding off the stain...and then if it's a smooth sand up to 1200, buff with white diamond and then carnauba.
I know a very well regarded pipemaker who only sands his smooths to 600 and calls it a day...

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
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At the rate you are going I would not be at all surprised to one day walk into my local tobacconist and find your handiwork (pipes, that is, not balsa wood ducks) for sale!
Ha! One can dream, right? :D Who knows, if that ever happens maybe I'll use a duck on the stamp or stem logo :D

 

ivapewithfire

Starting to Get Obsessed
Nov 26, 2014
268
0
West Virginia, USA
I know this thread is about Anthony's pipe, but I for wanted to thank Zack (and others) with throwing out tips.
I've learned a lot from researching, but getting these kind of direct tips from experienced pipe makers is just awesome.
zack, I've seen some of the pipes you've posted recently so I've seen the results of what your preaching. Seriously, thanks.

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
733
I for wanted to thank Zack (and others) with throwing out tips.
I've learned a lot from researching, but getting these kind of direct tips from experienced pipe makers is just awesome.
zack, I've seen some of the pipes you've posted recently so I've seen the results of what your preaching. Seriously, thanks.
I totally agree. Zack's Snapping Turtle shape is one of my dream pipes. :D

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
733
I've discovered that using a brass brush to remove bark from the plateau may very well have been more tiring to the arm then shaping this pipe by hand with the rasp. This stuff does not come off easy. However, out of curiosity, I took a bit of scrap that had plateau on it, and I wet the bark a bit and then pressed a damp paper towel down onto it and let it sit for a while. When I took the brush to the scrap piece, the bark came off quite easily for the most part. It was a small piece of scrap and so I cannot really tell if it softened the briar up so much that I might have scratched it with the brass brush bristles. It looks ok, but again it's hard to tell. I DID NOT do this to the pipe I'm working on, but I may try it on another pipe in the future. Ok back to the pipe at hand.
I finally removed all the bark, and the plateau is beautiful.
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A lot of time and effort went into taking off the bark, and at times it was tedious work. And at least once or twice I almost considered just taking the top down to smooth. But I decided to keep with it and was finally rewarded the final result. However I do have some plans that will probably take away some of the plateau. But I'm ok with that. This is my first pipe and I'm having fun at the same time, so a little experimentation won't hurt. Also, unlike putting a black finish on the plateau as most pipes seem to be done, I'm seriously considering leaving the top natural. It would be a shame to cover all those hills and canyons with it black it seems. Not that it looks bad on other pipes... It just seems to want to be left uncolored.... yes the pipe is speaking to me. I might be going mad. :crazy:

 
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