Museum Quality Wax for Briars

[Mike N]

I used to use Carnauba wax on my pipes. The only problem was that it turned white in any of the cracks and crevices of my rusticated or sandblasted bowls if not thoroughly removed.

Problem solved- one pipe maker recommended Renaissance wax polish made in England. I researched it and saw that it is used by major museums and conservators on antique furniture and dries clear. It’s made by appointment to Her Majesty the Queen and a small jar was less than $20. I highly recommend it, as shown in the photos below.

(tap on photos to enlarge)

 

[cosmicfolklore]

I have been using this stuff for a looooong time for metals. Really good stuff. But, I only use it on the stems. I have a buffer, so it does the best job of keeping my stummels waxed.

 

[bullet08]

Number of forum members do use it. However, some have found solutions that works for them. I have been using it for over 30 years on my bagpipes.

 

[sablebrush52]

Renaissance is one of several microcrystalline waxes on the market. Two newer versions, formulated specifically for pipes, one for smooth, the other for rusticated or blasts, are Halcyon and Paragon waxes. Ive used them for years and they work great. None of these are as durable as a buffed on carnuba. On the other hand, they can be brought up to every bit as high gloss as carnuba, and there's no risk of gradually buffing the pipe into a soft lump.

 

[Mike N]

Renaissance is one of several microcrystalline waxes on the market. Two newer versions, formulated specifically for pipes, one for smooth, the other for rusticated or blasts, are Halcyon and Paragon waxes. Ive used them for years and they work great. None of these are as durable as a buffed on carnuba. On the other hand, they can be brought up to every bit as high gloss as carnuba, and there's no risk of gradually buffing the pipe into a soft lump.

Thanks for that information. I will check them out. I do have a buffing wheel, but it is not variable speed and I am concerned that it may be a little too fast for my older pipes.

 

[PipeIT]

Renaissance is one of several microcrystalline waxes on the market. Two newer versions, formulated specifically for pipes, one for smooth, the other for rusticated or blasts, are Halcyon and Paragon waxes. Ive used them for years and they work great. None of these are as durable as a buffed on carnuba. On the other hand, they can be brought up to every bit as high gloss as carnuba, and there's no risk of gradually buffing the pipe into a soft lump.

+1 For Halcyon and Paragon, I use both.

Halcyon II™ Wax for the Pipe - $10.00 : Estate pipes, antique pipes, Dunhill, Danish pipes, Japanese pipes, Halcyon II, A Venue for Collectors of Fine Smoking Pipes and Accessories

Estate pipes, antique pipes, Dunhill, Danish pipes, Japanese pipes, Halcyon II Halcyon II™ Wax for the Pipe - Dear Customers: Despite rapidly rising materials cost, we've held the line on price for seven years. Sadly, we're now compelled to increase the price both here and on eBay. The good news...

www.finepipes.com

Paragon™ Wax for the Pipe - $14.00 : Estate pipes, antique pipes, Dunhill, Danish pipes, Japanese pipes, Halcyon II, A Venue for Collectors of Fine Smoking Pipes and Accessories

Estate pipes, antique pipes, Dunhill, Danish pipes, Japanese pipes, Halcyon II Paragon™ Wax for the Pipe - Dear Customers: Despite rapidly rising materials cost, we've held the line on price for seven years. Sadly, we're now compelled to increase the price both here and on eBay. The good news is...

www.finepipes.com

 

[georged]

I used to use Carnauba wax on my pipes. The only problem was that it turned white in any of the cracks and crevices of my rusticated or sandblasted bowls if not thoroughly removed.

Heat gun = gone

Indeed, over-waxing on a hard wheel to deliberately create white buildup in the cracks and crevices, followed by a heat gun & final buff on a soft wheel (while it's still warm) is the only way to reach the low spots that hand polishing can't reach.

The technique works equally well with microcrystalline wax---which is what Paragon is---if you like the look and hand feel of it better.

Here's a full rundown on the subject by hardcore shop guys:

Anyone tried block microcrystalline wax on a buff? - pipemakersforum.com - http://www.pipemakersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12621

 

[OzPiper]

I do have a buffing wheel, but it is not variable speed and I am concerned that it may be a little too fast for my older pipes.

The real danger is having your pipe flung across the room and breaking against a wall or floor.
As happened to me the first time I used one.

It was an old buffer gifted by a well-intentioned friend and did not come with instructions. And he had forgotten what a klutz I am with power tools

 

[Mike N]

The real danger is having your pipe flung across the room and breaking against a wall or floor.
As happened to me the first time I used one.

It was an old buffer gifted by a well-intentioned friend and did not come with instructions. And he had forgotten what a klutz I am with power tools

Yep, I too learned the hard way to always keep my index finger inside the bowl…

 

[metalheadycigarguy]

I have not heard of Rennaissance wax, so thank you for sharing. Since I don't have a buffing wheel, I use Halcyon and Paragon waxes for my pipes. They both are great on my pipes and give the briar and the stems a nice finish. Super easy to use as well.

 

[Briarcutter]

Im pretty sure Renaissance wax is made with petroleum distillates which you want to avoid on a smoking pipe.It is great wax for many applications, but IMO, not a smoking pipe. I cannot speak of the other two waxes mentioned.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Im pretty sure Renaissance wax is made with petroleum distillates which you want to avoid on a smoking pipe.It is great wax for many applications, but IMO, not a smoking pipe. I cannot speak of the other two waxes mentioned.

What dangers have you observed for those using same? Or something you read? Or deduced?

 

[Mike N]

I use Renaissance wax on the exterior of my briar which does not contact my mouth. To the contrary, Vulcanite pipe stems which do contact our lips and which we bite into on occasion, are made largely of synthetic rubber which in turn is made from petroleum.

Interesting point, though.

 

[tobakenist]

I live in England and I used it for years, not only on Pipes.

 

[OzPiper]

Im pretty sure Renaissance wax is made with petroleum distillates which you want to avoid on a smoking pipe.It is great wax for many applications, but IMO, not a smoking pipe. I cannot speak of the other two waxes mentioned.

I can’t envision any problem as you are applying to the exterior of the stummel and not using as a chamber coating

I use Obsidian oil on my stems

 

[Briarcutter]

I don't like the odor of petroleum on the briar and i believe what ever is on the outside will eventually come to the inside. It comes down to what ever the owner is comfortable with. I knew an old collector that use to put Ponds hand cream on rusticated pipes to bring out the luster. I cringed but also felt they were his pipes and he was entitled to do what ever he chose.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Im pretty sure Renaissance wax is made with petroleum distillates which you want to avoid on a smoking pipe.It is great wax for many applications, but IMO, not a smoking pipe. I cannot speak of the other two waxes mentioned.

What dangers have you observed for those using same? Or something you read? Or deduced? (Besides unpleasant odor)

 

[ThermionicScott]

I put petroleum distillates directly on my lips, all the time, so I am also interested in the nebulous "want to avoid" "whatever a person is comfortable with" dangers @Briarcutter is pussyfooting around describing.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Hmmm. Chapstick? My father warned me it could become addictive. So I use it only when the chapping starts.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Just thought of another use - sometimes copious- of another petroleum product, in an area at least as sensitive as the upper lips.