These are what I use, they work a charm!
Looking for Tips : Moderate Oxidation Removal on Vulcanite Stems
- Thread starter PaulTheScandinavian
- Start date
Last year I bought an estate pipe with the worst oxidation I've ever seen. Regardless that I bought it because I wanted to try to remove such a heavy oxidation and second I didn't yet own the shape 124X (“Wide Pot"). In the last picture you can see what I used for the job after cleaning the interior of this pipe. I.e. nail buffer file(s) 1000/4000 grit, paraffin oil (not in pic), Paragon wax and a microfiber cloth (non-abrasive).The work on the stem took a while and a bit elbow grease whereas I let the “logo-area" alone to not erase the grooves of the original logo. Finally I filled the grooves using a white wax 
on.
Of course my refurbishing is miles away from the great restoration work that georged or Steve Laug can do, but I was pleased that I had given a real bad treated pipe a better look and made it a good smoker again.
on.Of course my refurbishing is miles away from the great restoration work that georged or Steve Laug can do, but I was pleased that I had given a real bad treated pipe a better look and made it a good smoker again.
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Not so many miles away KottanLast year I bought an estate pipe with the worst oxidation I've ever seen. Regardless that I bought it because I wanted to try to remove such a heavy oxidation and second I didn't yet own the shape 124X (“Wide Pot"). In the last picture you can see what I used for the job after cleaning the interior of this pipe. I.e. nail buffer file(s) 1000/4000 grit, paraffin oil (not in pic), Paragon wax and a microfiber cloth (non-abrasive).The work on the stem took a while and a bit elbow grease whereas I let the “logo-area" alone to not erase the grooves of the original logo. Finally I filled the grooves using a white wax
Of course my refurbishing is miles away from the great restoration work that georged or Steve Laug can do, but I was pleased that I had given a real bad treated pipe a better look and made it a good smoker again.
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Congratulations, wonderful job on the restoration !
About cleaning up the logo-erea ; after an initial micro mesh polish I fill the logo and then start polishing by hand with a polishing compound. Works like a charm to remove all oxidation while not erasing too much of the logo stamp.
You guys inspired me today. The stem on my birthyear pipe looks like crap. Note that there’s been a softy bit on there for years. It’s also pretty thin and delicate, plus I’ve never done anything more than polish a stem.
I have a lot of polishing stuff from the restorations I do on old straight razors. I tested with 800 grit wet/dry, but it was too aggressive. So I used 1000, 1500, 2000. Then Magic eraser. Then nail buffer/polisher. Then Flitz. Then Renaissance wax.
Why go so high on grit? Because I don’t have a buffer.
Thanks for the guidance.
I have a lot of polishing stuff from the restorations I do on old straight razors. I tested with 800 grit wet/dry, but it was too aggressive. So I used 1000, 1500, 2000. Then Magic eraser. Then nail buffer/polisher. Then Flitz. Then Renaissance wax.
Why go so high on grit? Because I don’t have a buffer.
Thanks for the guidance.
Thanks Orlando!Not so many miles away Kottan
Congratulations, wonderful job on the restoration !
About cleaning up the logo-erea ; after an initial micro mesh polish I fill the logo and then start polishing by hand with a polishing compound. Works like a charm to remove all oxidation while not erasing too much of the logo stamp.
A Charatan w/o a logo is like a Mercedes-Benz w/o the star symbol. ?
Seriously, some sellers offer to rebuild a new Cp on the stem. I decline this. For me the (worn/faded) logo on estates primarily indicates that the stem is original. A brand new logo doesn't blend in with a used 50+ y/o pipe imho.
We drive a beasty Volvo, the Merc is not what it used to be .
My first one was an old , orange diesel. To sit behind the steering wheel , looking at that star made me feel proud as punch.
I'm with you on the logo matter; when on an older stem I sometimes give it a dab of strong black tea
to make it look just a tad more authentic. In my humble opinion a virgin white logo sometimes sticks out like a sore thumb. See, the nail buffers do a remarkable job , the stummel looks splendid
Roland
My first one was an old , orange
diesel. To sit behind the steering wheel , looking at that star made me feel proud as punch.I'm with you on the logo matter; when on an older stem I sometimes give it a dab of strong black tea
to make it look just a tad more authentic. In my humble opinion a virgin white logo sometimes sticks out like a sore thumb. See, the nail buffers do a remarkable job , the stummel looks splendid
Roland
Great job on the cleaning and polishing mr. H !
Flitz is good , I use it too .
So odd; every stem takes a different approach.
Many go all the way up to 12,000.
I remember you had made a video demonstrating this, but I can't find it on YouTube. Any chance I could get that link again?
YouTube deleted it for inappropriate content, tobacco use.
I love my vulcanite stems and am interested in this thread on rescuing them, but it is also like an advertisement for acrylic stems, for those who find them comfortable.
Always start with the least invasive product. Jewelers cloth and then Magic Erasers are the way to start, then move on to the micro mesh pads.
A tiny bit of acetone on a soft cloth will dissolve sulfides quickly but I don’t know what it will do to a white spot.