Yup! Wanted to get a patina and didn’t want shiny brass.Just carrying it around in pocket did it. I got lot of crap in my pocket!
Yup! Wanted to get a patina and didn’t want shiny brass.Just carrying it around in pocket did it. I got lot of crap in my pocket!
It does look better longer you use itYup! Wanted to get a patina and didn’t want shiny brass.
I'm okay with permanent and I like the idea of unscratchable. This is to wrap some sword mounts to help protect the blade edge:I wouldn't recommend it. The glue kinda makes it permanent.
I use contact cement. Domestic product, but the choice amongst many leathercrafters is Barge. Leather is up to you, but I chose the Riviera calf because if essentially unscratchable. You can see that the creases barely shew on my sleeve and I was using a rather high temperature on the creaser: the same temperature that would char crazy horse or veg tan leather.
For that you need to use vegetable tanned leather. Chrome tanned contains, well, chrome salts, which can tarnish or rust metal. If the surface to cover is metal, then I'd suggest a vegetable tanned leather that is soft in temper and has a weight of at least 7 oz, or more depending on how sharp your blade is.I'm okay with permanent and I like the idea of unscratchable. This is to wrap some sword mounts to help protect the blade edge:
View attachment 71574
Good to know about the tanning.For that you need to use vegetable tanned leather. Chrome tanned contains, well, chrome salts, which can tarnish or rust metal. If the surface to cover is metal, then I'd suggest a vegetable tanned leather that is soft in temper and has a weight of at least 7 oz, or more depending on how sharp your blade is.
1 oz = 1/64 inch = 0.4 mm thickness.
I'd also get some of this, if you haven't already:Good to know about the tanning.
The swords were shipped dull but I took them to a professional sharpener. He said they'd be as sharp as a quality steak knife when he was done so I'll get the thickest leather I can find.