I'm surprised at you Beef...you should know by now 25 seconds is the maximum allotted time for picture gazing.and as I was looking at the pictures (for about 30 seconds)
I'm surprised at you Beef...you should know by now 25 seconds is the maximum allotted time for picture gazing.and as I was looking at the pictures (for about 30 seconds)
Jesse, I'm the seller of the pipe in question. I'm unsure how you came up with the idea that the tenon is stuck in the mortise but, I can assure you it's not sir. If you take a look at the photo's again I'm sure you'll see you must have gotten it mixed up with another pipe.This Barling brought in a good payday for its owner, $560:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barling-1910-Bulldog-with-Alligator-Case-FREE-Shipping-/202336859777?var=null&nma=true&si=rEfug3rOEkEIyicfVp1YAiMfmjE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Condition is good, though not great. There is considerable tapping damage to the rim and the tenon has become stuck in the mortise with the result that the glue attaching it to the amber stem has failed and the tenon can be unscrewed from the stem.
Looking at that picture, that's exactly what a stuck tenon looks like. I've extracted more than a few of them. By 1910, Barling was using a combination of a vulcanite friction tenon attached to an amber stem by means of a threaded connector, which looks like what what I'm seeing in this picture. RonnieB told me how to get them out.Jesse, I'm the seller of the pipe in question. I'm unsure how you came up with the idea that the tenon is stuck in the mortise but, I can assure you it's not sir. If you take a look at the photo's again I'm sure you'll see you must have gotten it mixed up with another pipe.
Absolutely! But that will have to wait until I get back home on Tuesday. I have one from 1912, and it's one that I had to free up and remove the stuck tenon from the mortise. I don't remember if I re-glued that tenon or not, but if not, I'll unscrew it and give you pix of it on and off. It's not all that uncommon an occurrence. As for the thinness of the shank walls, I've got a couple of pipes from the 1920's with damned near tissue thin walls, and they're perfectly sound. I may throw in a picture or two of those. One is a Kaywoodie and the other is a Comoy.You realize there's only about a 1/16 of an inch between that circle on the mortise end and the sides of the shank?
That's cutting it a bit close for my tastes and I would never attempt to drill a mortise that close to the sides of the shank. That's just asking for a cracked shank. And by the looks of the circular wear on the face of the stem I'd say it's always been that way. Maybe you can show me one that is still attached?
Yes, those threads you see are inside the tenon stuck inside the shank. That's what that circular shape is inside the shank. Those threads connect the tenon to the threaded connector attached to the stem.I get where Jesse's coming from, but since I'm seeing it on my Droid I reverse-pinched, & those are definitely screw threads inside the shank. I hate having to have to disagree with the Bard, but I think he's off on this one. Sorry, Jesse!
Great, I'll be looking forward to seeing that. And yes, I do agree there are some pipes out there with TOO thin of shanks as far as the size of the mortise to the side of the shank but, I don't believe it would have been standard practice by any means.Absolutely! But that will have to wait until I get back home on Tuesday. I have one from 1912, and it's one that I had to free up and remove the stuck tenon from the mortise. I don't remember if I re-glued that tenon or not, but if not, I'll unscrew it and give you pix of it on and off. It's not all that uncommon an occurrence. As for the thinness of the shank walls, I've got a couple of pipes from the 1920's with damned near tissue thin walls, and they're perfectly sound. I may throw in a picture or two of those. One is a Kaywoodie and the other is a Comoy.
Yes PF, I too have 1 or 2 that have very thin walls and are cracked. But, I think in the instance of Barling (if that is really a secondary tenon as said) they may have put a sleeve in the shank to make it easier to a line the (most likely) pre-made amber stem with bone screw tenon when tightened. This way they could tighten the sleeve onto the bone screw apply adhesive to the shank and insert it into the shank at the exact point to a line with the shank and, being the adhesive has not cured, will spin in the shank till they were happy with the fit. I do fairly the same thing when replacing a bone screw tenon just opposite. I tight the bone screw first into the shank and then apply adhesive to the mortise of the stem, tighten it till it's flush and a lined. Of course you can't be sloppy with the adhesive.I can't speak to the Barling issue specifically, but thin mortises were pretty common back then. Here are two square-shanked BBB's of mine (one a straight bulldog and the other a bent billiard). The mortise of the bent billiard is cracked, but there was a flaw in the briar. The straight bulldog mortise (on the right) has some partial hairline cracks, but is otherwise still intact.