How Flush are your Pipe Stem and Shank ?
- Thread starter LudwigB88
- Start date
Well, as far as briars go I'd say the gap is much less common. I have $30 briars with no gap whatsoever.
And for what it's worth, you'll always be light tight and flush with an army/spigot mount.
Even if a pipe leaves perfectly flush, after you use it a while, it may stop being perfectly flush.
Heat expands different materials at different rates, and briar swells with and without moisture. It might not be by much or noticeable to the naked eye, but if you ever tried to pull a stem from a warm pipe, you'd notice it's tighter than when the pipe was cold (don't do that though, but you can do that with army/spigots and you'll notice the same thing). You can also see the same effect on a cold pipe that's dry vs wet.
I wouldn't doubt if over time, some pipes that were once square became unsquare with enough use—plasticity and plastic deformation being different for different materials and all, along with imperfect densities causing uneven expansion. But we're probably talking like a hair's width here over many uses.
Even if a pipe leaves perfectly flush, after you use it a while, it may stop being perfectly flush.
Heat expands different materials at different rates, and briar swells with and without moisture. It might not be by much or noticeable to the naked eye, but if you ever tried to pull a stem from a warm pipe, you'd notice it's tighter than when the pipe was cold (don't do that though, but you can do that with army/spigots and you'll notice the same thing). You can also see the same effect on a cold pipe that's dry vs wet.
I wouldn't doubt if over time, some pipes that were once square became unsquare with enough use—plasticity and plastic deformation being different for different materials and all, along with imperfect densities causing uneven expansion. But we're probably talking like a hair's width here over many uses.
I just found a very interesting thread on the forum which is somewhat related : Pipe Stummel Swelling? What’s interesting is that they address gaps indirectly: one entry mentions not being able to insert a stem all the way possibly due to a humid environment; hence a gap. Another mentioned what I was wondering about and had considered : that the tenon needed to be slightly shorter since it did not allow the stem to be inserted fully. I attempted to alleviate this by lightly sanding the tenon face but it didn’t solve the problem. I’ve concluded that the issue is the angle of the mortise not matching that of the tenon. Or (amounting to the same problem): the tenon is not perfectly perpendicular to the face of the stem. But as the thread title suggests , all of this can be related to swelling due to moisture. So everyone who suggested that briar needs to be dry and rested is correct. Also, I’m sure there are plenty of issues that can arrive when producing a stem where heat and cooling can result in warping. So many areas where problems can arise. I guess we’re lucky that most manufacturers like Savinelli can get it right as often as they do !
This is the quote from the other thread that I mention above :
“Could it be the tenons a too long by a mm? If your tenon touches the end of the mortise and you smoke the pipe, the heat will sometimes cause the tenon to push away from the mortise end a bit. When I made pipes, I always tried to eliminate any gap. Sometimes I had to shorten the tenon just a smidge because I got the tolerance too close.
Mike S.” (It’s from 2014)
“Could it be the tenons a too long by a mm? If your tenon touches the end of the mortise and you smoke the pipe, the heat will sometimes cause the tenon to push away from the mortise end a bit. When I made pipes, I always tried to eliminate any gap. Sometimes I had to shorten the tenon just a smidge because I got the tolerance too close.
Mike S.” (It’s from 2014)
Most of my pipes are flush. I have a couple that are not completely and it irritates me no end.
I don’t have a pipe with an accent ring that has other than a perfect fit. If it bugs you, you already have the answer - send it back. Trying to modify it is something that will likely end badly and why even consider the risk - it’s on the maker and you know it will be accepted for return. Stuff gets by quality control from time to time, I wouldn’t want the gap and would have sent it back without hesitation - it’s just a pipe (which to me means it’s not a big enough deal to let something bother you that you can easily remedy). Resist the sandpaper!
This is good advice. I’m a little ocd and have a tendency to fix things until they break. Sometimes taking a break and coming back to it later helps. I tend to get hung up on things and over correct.
I own over a hundred pipes made by Richard Lee with his recessed, hidden, screw mortise and tenon.
Stuff like this never concerns me with a Lee, or with an old Kaywoodie either.
Marxmans and Webers sometimes have these problems.
A push stem is a cheap way to get half the pipe made from cheap vulcanized rubber.
Stuff like this never concerns me with a Lee, or with an old Kaywoodie either.
Marxmans and Webers sometimes have these problems.
A push stem is a cheap way to get half the pipe made from cheap vulcanized rubber.
If this bothers you return the pipe but that doesn't seem possible since you have slightly worked on the pipe.
It’s fine. He gave me partial credit and I’m keeping. I can always get someone make me new stem in future. It smokes great and bowl/stummel is beautiful. Thanks y’all.
Yes. It’s actually gorgeous. The stem is a smoky obsidian black … like there’s a silver smoke trail running through it. Pictures don’t do it justice. And it’s an amazing feel in the hand, with very thick walls. The black stain allows some rim grain to show through. And the rustication is unique.
I hate when that happens. I had a similar issue back in May. I returned it. My money isn't crooked so why be my pipe crooked? Not me. The angle was drilled wrong. No fixing it as far as I am concerned. Besides. I didn't buy a new pipe to restore it. Supposed to come perfect. Anyway...your lesson learned. At least you got some money back. Still though...
That’s interesting. I now believe that is what happened here: that the mortise hole was drilled at a slightly off-angle. I DO believe that the tenon is perpendicular to the stem face. But the mortise hole is not perfectly perpendicular to the shank face.
Ahhh the Ole Gap In Between, an OCD Pipe smokers dread! 
