I know this may be a dumb question,But I've used Carnuba wax and buffed the hell out of it and it still won't shine like the pipes I've seen at the local b&m...If anyone could shed some light on my dilemma I'd greatly appreciate it.
How Do I Get My Bowl to Shine Like Glass?
- Thread starter nightmarejones
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The brilliance of a waxed pipe depends on how finely the wood is sanded. Carnauba wax or Paragon/Halcyon are good choices, but the shine doesn't last too long if the pipe is handled a lot; although re-buffing will restore it pretty well. But if a pipe just won't shine-up, it's probably because the wood hasn't been sanded finely enough. I'd be willing to bet your "problem" pipes are good smokers and mid-range brand name pipes that didn't cost you an arm and a leg -- and that's because finishing the wood is labor intensive and a more crude sanding job keeps costs down. Some manufacturers save time and money by lacquering poorly sanded pipes -- and they shine forever. :roll:
Do not sand your pipes unless you are an expert at it. Buy some cheap eBay wrecks to practice on. You'll need some ultra fine grades of sandpaper (I think around 1200 - 1600 grit.) I know nothing about the process or materials, so maybe someone online can help there.
This I do know: sanding wood to the degree necessary is a ROYAL PITA.
Do not sand your pipes unless you are an expert at it. Buy some cheap eBay wrecks to practice on. You'll need some ultra fine grades of sandpaper (I think around 1200 - 1600 grit.) I know nothing about the process or materials, so maybe someone online can help there.
This I do know: sanding wood to the degree necessary is a ROYAL PITA.
You could try dipping it in molten glass. Let it dry and VIOLA, a glassy shine...and so easy to clean, just wipe her down with some Windex.
Hobie1....That's what I'm talkin about...Maybe I should kidnap Cajunguy and force his secrets..lol..Thanks Brew....if I could I would,but my grill won't get hot enough..lol
Thanks Cortezattic...I have heard of buffing with tripoli polish[I think it's called]then micro mesh then carnuba but wasn't sure.....Usually I get tons of info from here but not tonight I guess..lol
No need to kidnap! I'm an annoying travel companion, unless, of course, you knock me out. Just stop at Burger King along the way, please.
Anyway, Cortez is very much correct: the finer you sand, the more of a natural gloss you get, making the actually "polishing" process all the more rewarding. Basically, increasing the amount of grit levels the porous areas of the wood to a more homogenous balance, bringing the wood grain and natural minerals into a balanced state. But enough of the Scientific America stuff.
This is my process (Note: this is for a complete refinish):
1. Sand at 250 grit to remove imperfections, open the pores for staining;
2. Stain and wipe away excess;
3. Sand at 500 until I get a grain display that I like, knowing that the remaining process will make it lighter;
4. Buff with #0000 steel wool to balance color
5. Sand with 800, 1200, 2000, 4000, 6000 and 12000 (You can get a cheap micromesh kit from Alpha Abrasives)
By the time you reach 12,000 grit you're going to notice the the bowl is already shining. If you have a buffer, here's what I do next:
1. Buff Red Tripoli at high speed (3500 rpm) if I want to darken/smooth the coat more (quick load, 1 second touch);
2. Buff White Diamond (3500rpm) until extremely high gloss is present (quick load, 1 second touch)
3. Load Carnuba (short touch, 1 second) at very high speed (3500 rpm) to apply it hot. Reduce speed to 600-1000rpm. Use a rag to remove some excess off the wheel. Buff until the coat blinds you. Buff with soft cloth between coats of carnuba. I use a sewn Muslin wheel for my carnuba, but some people prefer canton flannel. Personally, I don't like it, though.
If you don't have a buffer, 12,000 grit is the point you'd use your Halcyon or Paragon wax.
If you're not doing a complete refinish, I would suggest starting at no less than 1200 grit. You're still going to lose a bit of color, but anything heavier than that is going to be very noticeable.
It takes some practice, but I've been doing this stuff day in and day out for a good while now. Give it a whirl on a beater pipe. I guarantee with enough practice you'll have it looking $100 more expensive.
Anyway, Cortez is very much correct: the finer you sand, the more of a natural gloss you get, making the actually "polishing" process all the more rewarding. Basically, increasing the amount of grit levels the porous areas of the wood to a more homogenous balance, bringing the wood grain and natural minerals into a balanced state. But enough of the Scientific America stuff.
This is my process (Note: this is for a complete refinish):
1. Sand at 250 grit to remove imperfections, open the pores for staining;
2. Stain and wipe away excess;
3. Sand at 500 until I get a grain display that I like, knowing that the remaining process will make it lighter;
4. Buff with #0000 steel wool to balance color
5. Sand with 800, 1200, 2000, 4000, 6000 and 12000 (You can get a cheap micromesh kit from Alpha Abrasives)
By the time you reach 12,000 grit you're going to notice the the bowl is already shining. If you have a buffer, here's what I do next:
1. Buff Red Tripoli at high speed (3500 rpm) if I want to darken/smooth the coat more (quick load, 1 second touch);
2. Buff White Diamond (3500rpm) until extremely high gloss is present (quick load, 1 second touch)
3. Load Carnuba (short touch, 1 second) at very high speed (3500 rpm) to apply it hot. Reduce speed to 600-1000rpm. Use a rag to remove some excess off the wheel. Buff until the coat blinds you. Buff with soft cloth between coats of carnuba. I use a sewn Muslin wheel for my carnuba, but some people prefer canton flannel. Personally, I don't like it, though.
If you don't have a buffer, 12,000 grit is the point you'd use your Halcyon or Paragon wax.
If you're not doing a complete refinish, I would suggest starting at no less than 1200 grit. You're still going to lose a bit of color, but anything heavier than that is going to be very noticeable.
It takes some practice, but I've been doing this stuff day in and day out for a good while now. Give it a whirl on a beater pipe. I guarantee with enough practice you'll have it looking $100 more expensive.
All sanding that I do is done by hand, as it allows me to conform my motions to the contours of the pipe. Pressure applied is a big deal, and that's best gauged by touch. Even 1200 grit can annihilate a stamp or nomenclature if it's worn enough. The only thing that is done with a machine is the final buffing.
Wow, that's an involved process. Here I was thinking I could just spit shine my pipes like an ol' shoe shiner. I have a lot to learn.
Thanks Cajunguy ..That definitely explains my more matte finish since that's alot more than I'm able to do right now with my dremel..lol..Greatly appreciate it and I will be putting that info to work on my next beater
There's unfortunately no shortcut for the handwork, at least I haven't found one. Take your time, no need to rush (unless you are a pro). Re-doing my own estates is the only way I could afford some of the pipes I own, so the reward for the hard work is high.
I'm glad Cajunguy likes to do that stuff and save me all my time I have left on Earth to do other things. :
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I guess you could try to PM him, but his last activity on the forum was 3 years ago. Click on his name under his avatar.
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