OxyClean oxidizes a stem and can cause pitting in the material, it doesn't remove oxidation.
Fixed bend but now look!
- Thread starter Old_Woodsman
- Start date
I got a pipe from an estate pipe seller a few years ago that had the stem dyed black with Fiebings leather dye...
I was pissed to say the least. It actually looked pretty good at a glance or on a computer screen, but it was evident what had been done as soon as I put it my mouth.
OXYclean accelerates OXIdation, it actually causes oxidation. It can be helpfull with stubborn stems in that it will accelerate oncoming oxidation and loosen it so it can be removed. It can also cause so much oxidation that it destroys the stem. Use with caution. Even with oxiclean you will still have to remove the oxidation by mechanical/abrasive means.
This is NOT a remedy to make it mirror shiny, but you might have these around the house. They've already been mentioned, so I'm a +1 on magic eraser and then toothpaste. I believe the magic eraser is analagous to around 1200 grit micromesh? Or is it 1500? It's around there anyway. So hit it with a magic eraser and then follow up with the good ol' white toothpaste and a cotton cloth. These two things won't make it look like mirror black, but you know?
Toothpaste is how I get a mirror shine on my restorations but I thumb buff the stem with it.
I’ve restored most of my oxidized stems with grapeseed oil 4/0 steel wool and elbow grease. The really bad ones, I’ve used toothpaste. Then follow up with Obsidian oil.
I used to use hot water to bend stems but now I use a microwave.
Go easy, 30 seconds at a time, try bending, repeat.
I used to use hot water to bend stems but now I use a microwave.
Go easy, 30 seconds at a time, try bending, repeat.
Hmmm... Maybe I'm using the wrong toothpaste? I use Colgate whitening because my dentist kept giving me the sample/travel sizes. It's the old type white stuff with abrasives you can feel. I'm satisfied with the results, but they aren't shiny shiny. I personally don't like super shiny stems. What do you use?
I have never seen any ill effect.
Its a chemical process its not like sanding or anything
Its a chemical process its not like sanding or anything
My vulcanite stems have no integrity. They lie through my teeth.
I'm surprised there isn't some chemist amongst us that hasn't offered a simple chemical reaction to break the bonds of sulfur oxidation from the stem surface. While I realize sulfur is part of the rubber compound, there must be a molecular bond that can be broken to make it less basic than sand and rub, sand and rub. Anyone? Anyone??
just assume the latter. It's safer from a mental health stand point.
Hi guys look at that falcon logo: it’s really nice. I don’t mind initials of any brand or carver, this specific one is just nice,
Of course there’s is. I offered it several times but only a few seem to appreciate it. It works, I’ve tried it several times.
Go here:
Original Stain... Or Not? :: Pipe Repair and Maintenance
Ok. I just finished the first one. There are a few imperfections, but for a start, I'm satisfied. I have four more in the queue, I'll let you know in this thread. In front of you, the one and only "Real Briar":
pipesmagazine.com
Just scroll a little bit downwards
The catch being that getting "back to black" is only the first step and further sanding and polishing is necessary.
And if you're going to do it anyway, why not skip the setup and hassle and go straight to sanding and polishing?
I imagine that's why the method didn't cause much excitement.
Very cool. Thanks. I might just try that...if I can find some of that acid for cheap.
I'm wondering if you can change the order of the process a bit. For instance, buff it relatively shiny, but not get crazy and try to get every semblance of green off. Then hit it with the acid steam to remove the green. Something like that anyway. If you could do that, it would be very handy for stems that have all kinds of additional faces, like a Charatan double cut.