Honestly a 70s Dunhill would be a poor choice for that modification, don'tcha think?
Now, an earlier 20th c. Barling or Ben Wade (Leeds).. that would be ideal.
Example of "Invisible Repair"
- Thread starter georged
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Now, an earlier 20th c. Barling or Ben Wade (Leeds).. that would be ideal.
Child labour??Getting warmer.
HINT: the wheels on the bus go round and round
wouldn’t let the little mites anywhere near my pipes! Spit on a rag or wire wool works for me.
Crazy Dutchman! LolI did a lot of the stuff, but never "medical"
It was good medicine though.
What is the name/link of those attachments for buffing. Are they for a Dremel?
@georged do you just get your cats to lick the carbon off the rims?
DING DING DING
Yup, those 3M Spinny Widgets
This video is queued to the explanation & demo. Just pretend the rim being worked on is the carbon-slabbed subject of this thread AND the spinny widget is a 36 grit brown one. (The less aggressive grits will just polish hard carbon, but the 36ers work like magic on it.)
PS --- No "spit and a rag" on planet Earth will remove plated carbon. I suppose the tobacco type is what makes some deposits hard and others soft. When it's the hard stuff, though, it must either be tediously chipped off with dental tool---which gives a shitty looking result---or Spinny Thinged off, which looks great.
Amazon to the rescue:
Yup, those 3M Spinny Widgets
This video is queued to the explanation & demo. Just pretend the rim being worked on is the carbon-slabbed subject of this thread AND the spinny widget is a 36 grit brown one. (The less aggressive grits will just polish hard carbon, but the 36ers work like magic on it.)
PS --- No "spit and a rag" on planet Earth will remove plated carbon. I suppose the tobacco type is what makes some deposits hard and others soft. When it's the hard stuff, though, it must either be tediously chipped off with dental tool---which gives a shitty looking result---or Spinny Thinged off, which looks great.
Amazon to the rescue:
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
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George, do you use the spiny things on just the blasted or rusticated rims? You wouldn't use this to remove hard carbon on a smooth rim would you... or would you? I was going to make one of those scrapers you fashioned from a putty knife blade as described in one of your other videos
Brilliant George. My Rolec bristle discs which work well on Triumph or MGB motor parts, would be too aggressive for pipe work And, too large for that level of control. What you've shown us is the sandblast version of contrast staining a polished briar.DING DING DING
Yup, those 3M Spinny Widgets
This video is queued to the explanation & demo. Just pretend the rim being worked on is the carbon-slabbed subject of this thread AND the spinny widget is a 36 grit brown one. (The less aggressive grits will just polish hard carbon, but the 36ers work like magic on it.)
PS --- No "spit and a rag" on planet Earth will remove plated carbon. I suppose the tobacco type is what makes some deposits hard and others soft. When it's the hard stuff, though, it must either be tediously chipped off with dental tool---which gives a shitty looking result---or Spinny Thinged off, which looks great.
Amazon to the rescue:
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Thanks for explaining the motor control speeds (those three phase speed controllers I suspect are not inexpensvie!) I could not replicate that type of restoration with my equipment, and it was fascinating to watch you work your magic.
Absolutely DO NOT use the 3M spinner on a smooth pipe. One touch is too much.
The little scaper doo-dad IS the best way to remove hard plated carbon on a smooth rim (short of outright topping).
Simple question, but impossible to answer without lots and lots of supporting photos covered with arrows and circles to define terms. And the result of doing THAT would be more questions, fractal-style, for a long time afterward.
Somewhat easier in person, like at a pipe show with dozens examples on a table and a couple hours to burn, but even then the info wouldn't be absorbed---be meaningful---without a lot of hands-on experience beforehand to get the "feel" of originality.
Put another way, serious collectors can examine pretty much any brand or model of pipe and tell you in less than a minute if it's original or not, but EXPLAINING how they came to the conclusion leaves them mostly using phrases such as "doesn't look right", and "proportions are off".
And it's off to the races again. "What do you mean by off? Off how, exactly?"
I guess the best answer is immersion. If you're interested in a brand, look at every example you can find and ask specific questions about IT---that one specimen---whenever possible. And mentally log the information. As time passes patterns will emerge and things will become obvious to you at a glance. Things you didn't even SEE before.
Beautiful work as usual! Did you cut the whole stem or start with a pre-molded? Diamond shank bents are proper bastard to hand cut while retaining symmetry. They frustrate me to no end.
NYH rod for the win.
10-4 on diamond shank bastard-ity. Ditto square and faceted. One pipe looks pretty much like another to the consumer public but not to us repairmen, eh? Whoops, I mean repairhumans.
Hold on... that term is also sexist, isn't it? Human.
Hmmm...
I know. We are repairpersons.
(Shit... that term contains the embedded word "son" which, of course, is non-child-bearing-capable specific, and therefore a microaggression.)
Let's see...
Repairits.
Yeah. That should work. You and I are "repairits", Rustie.
Welcome to 2023
-----
Regarding a term I used earlier, "plated carbon", here's a close-up of what I was referring to.
It's not common, but when you encounter it, boy howdy you will know it.
On a smooth, it's scrape time. On a blast, 3M spinny time. And even then it's gotta be 36 grit. The next click up for 3M spinnies is 80 grit, and they'll just shine it.
Finally, I realized after posting the first set of pics that the color was off. Too orange-y.
So I took another shot with the color adjusted to match the stummel when held next to my computer screen.
Mucher gooder. It's a TANshell, dammit, not an ORANGEshell.
My apologies to anyone who might have been wondering.
Repaireriser…
I used to think it was easier to trim up a premolded stem and stick it on a pipe. I have come to find out that is definitely not the case. Cutting a stem from rod is actually easier that using a molded stem. I’m 100% in control of ALL the dimensions and not beholden to the jack legs making molded stems. I almost want to charge more to put a molded stem on a pipe than I do to cut one just to discourage people from asking for em… But then again I hate vulcanite and would rather work acrylic. I would also rather own acrylic.