Cleaning the Shank

[jpmcwjr]

Just think about how how it gets in the chamber! That should allay fears! Others may worry about moisture, not realizing the chamber, shank and bit are subjected to steam and super hot moisture for the length of the smoke.

I've never raised grain, nor had a mortise swell*, nor a fill pop out due to a very hot tap water flush. Sure, some wax might come off if you run it over the exterior, but always there's enough left to buff up to a good luster.

At this point with about five years' experience on a 80-90 pipes, with 5 years X 365 days X 4 (being the average number of pipes cleaned per day), so over 7,000 hot water flushes.

*Always done with stem in place, unless I am also doing a mortise clean out. Still, no problem with swelling

 

[badbeard]

Just think about how how it gets in the chamber! That should allay fears! Others may worry about moisture, not realizing the chamber, shank and bit are subjected to steam and super hot moisture for the length of the smoke.

This is a fair point; however, the heat from the chamber and moisture in the shank while smoking is not at all the same as hot water running all over the outside of the pipe. And steam and super hot moisture.. it can't be that hot if you are smoking at the right rate. Sure the bowl is hot, but if I can smoke a 3.5" nose warmer without getting bit, then a fair majority of the heat doesn't make it too far up. It's a moot point though, because I am more concerned with exterior damage due to hot water. Mortise issues are probably mostly mitigated by leaving in the stem.. but hot water exposure can also remove wax protection from vulcanite and cause it to oxidize faster.

And it's great that water flushes work awesome for you and have never damaged a pipe. I have popped fills on a couple old Kaywoodies, and seriously raised grain on a pipe where the wax finish was removed by hot water.
As a woodworker, sometimes water is used specifically to raise grain, so this not something I am pulling out of my backside. One method of contrast staining even uses water to raise less dense areas that are then sanded off and then stained again with a different shade. I've used this method on briar before, so I am pretty sure I am not crazy.

Again, if it works for you keep doing it. But when someone comes along - like myself - and sees issues first hand, I think a little warning is worth while. Cherry, Oak, and Pear are particularly susceptible to grain changes due to moisture, so I would probably avoid water flushing those woods too. These would be my recommendations after 20 years of working with wood, if we are going to flex (which really doesn't mean shit).

 

[jpmcwjr]

• Hot water has never raised grain with over 7,000 runs. But briar and meerschaum only.
• Concerns about removing wax: Either don't get water on the exterior, or buff dry.
• Hot water does not create oxidation, but will expose it. A dab of mineral oil brings it right back.
• There's no "damage" to the pipe under any scenario. Alternative wood being a possible exception.

 

[badbeard]

• Hot water has never raised grain with over 7,000 runs. But briar and meerschaum only.
• Concerns about removing wax: Either don't get water on the exterior, or buff dry.
• Hot water does not create oxidation, but will expose it. A dab of mineral oil brings it right back.
• There's no "damage" to the pipe under any scenario. Alternative wood being a possible exception.

Repetition of the same absolute statements certainly does generate the illusion of truth. I have had pipes damaged from water, so your assertion that there is no damage under any scenario is nonsense. Hot water will remove many waxes, dulls shellac, and can cause lacquer to "blush", which is a whitish haze that forms.
I have had vulcanite stems where hot water stripped off the wax, thereby causing them to oxidize.
I am not pushing my own alternative method here, or trying to say you shouldn't do what you want. I am just saying it is not the miracle catch-all method you play it off to be, nor is it without risk.