Clean Your Briar Pipes the "New Way".

[briarblues]

I guess I am an "old school" guy. I do find this method interesting, but doubt I will try it. I have a few thoughts / questions.
First, water from different regions varies. Is the water soft, hard, city, well, or chlorinated and or florinated? ( sp ) Over time if on hard water will there be a build up of minerals.
If I understand the method, you run water through from the tobacco chamber, through the stem, while attached. Once rinsed through, you remove the stem, dry the mortise, tobacco chamber, and stem air passage. I assume, you leave the stem removed from the shank, during the drying process, for ??? 24 , 48 hours or more?
I would really like to see this method shown in a video. I am 100% not adverse to trying new techniques, as any method / technique I find that works better and faster than my current way helps me. Currently for me to clean, refurbish and polish any arriving estate ( pre smoked ) pipe takes around an hour. Some much longer, very few shorter.
Tell us / show us more.
Regards

Michael J. Glukler

 

[woodsroad]

Mineral buildup is a non-issue, since the briar isn't absorbing water. Ditto on water hardness and chlorination/fluoridation. No different that wiping down your countertops with a damp rag.

 

[briarblues]

woodsroad, man you better come visit me. I love my milky white ( that used to be green ) counter tops. hahahahahahaaha
If not absorbing water does this mean, the wash is of a short duration? It's not like you're running luke warm water through for 10 minutes?
I am serious. I am fascinated at this technique and if it is better than what I am doing now.
Regards

Michael J. Glukler

 

[ben88]

I also use water to clean my pipes. Once every 4-5 smokes. Trimmed soft toothbrush helps clean out the chamber.

 

[ssjones]

I'm usually less concerned about the bowl and more about the shank.

By my practice, alcohol is usually applied on a paper towel scrunched into the shank, then twisted in. This usually removes the tar build-up. I'm skeptical that water would be as effective.

 

[derekflint]

I was under the impression alcohol was used as an antiseptic to kill bacteria and other hidden nasties that could foul or sour a pipe. Is water going to be as effective as alcohol ? Is alcohol too strong an agent for briar in the long run ?

 

[jpmcwjr]

If I understand the method, you run water through from the tobacco chamber, through the stem, while attached. Once rinsed through, you remove the stem, dry the mortise, tobacco chamber, and stem air passage. I assume, you leave the stem removed from the shank, during the drying process, for ??? 24 , 48 hours or more?

No, no and no! on the leaving the stem out. The mortise will either expand (due to the wood drying and shrinking away from the tenon) or feel tight, due to the lack of lubricant effect from moist wood.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Water may for the most part be just fine, but what if perhaps there's a small unseen flaw inside the shank and water gets down inside it. Alcohol will evaporate out of it, whereas water might get down in there and take longer to evaporate. As non absorbent as briar is, it's still going to absorb some moisture, and more so with water, and perhaps in time lead to a weakness and then a cracked shank or even bowl. I'm not saying that's certainly going to happen, but it sounds possibl

Great question, and I think the answer is: far less moisture will get into the briar with a hot water rinse than in regular smoking, where the briar is subject to much higher temperatures with moisture laden smoke, for much longer times.

 

[jpmcwjr]

What is the thickest cake you have cleaned out? I have some estates en route that have some serious build up. Any concern with soaking a pipe too long? Thanks for the info, I will try it soon.

Daniel- I haven't had to remove cake via this method, though I've given a light scrape under running water.
And I don't soak, just running water. (though there's evidence that prolonged exposure to water doesn't really do any permanent harm, mostly aesthetic.)

 

[briarblues]

jpmcwjr
Ok I get it. So you leave the stem in place while allowing the pipe to dry. So then after 24 hours or more, you remove the stem to clean the mortise and re dry.
Regards

Michael J. Glukler

 

[jpmcwjr]

Well. I've gotten lazy and complacent! Sometimes I just run a pipe cleaner though and let her dry. Sometimes I don't even do that! (hangs head in shame). Only occasionally do I remove the stem and dry the mortise, and when I do so it's when the pipe has just been rinsed. (And it's for a minute or less, in answer to your question above).
I do believe I am removing gunk from the mortise with the hot water rinse, without having to take the stem out. Hence the nasty mortise phenom is less likely, or at least delayed significantly.

 

[jpmcwjr]

If not absorbing water does this mean, the wash is of a short duration? It's not like you're running luke warm water through for 10 minutes?

It's more like hot tap water for a minute more or less.
As to videos, that wasn't part of my NY resolution! But maybe.

 

[sablebrush52]

If I understand the method, you run water through from the tobacco chamber, through the stem, while attached. Once rinsed through, you remove the stem, dry the mortise, tobacco chamber, and stem air passage. I assume, you leave the stem removed from the shank, during the drying process, for ??? 24 , 48 hours or more?

Hi Mike,
Unlike John, I actually do separate the stem from the shank for cleaning as that's my usual practice for cleaning after use and before resting the pipe. It's a short hot water rinse, maybe 10-20 seconds, then scrubbing out and using fluffies to wick up moisture and sediments like I would if I'd used alcohol. Briar being pretty unabsorbent, the pipe dries out quickly and reassembly is the same as for alcohol, a minute or two for things to dry out. Keep in mind that I live in a dry climate.

I was under the impression alcohol was used as an antiseptic to kill bacteria and other hidden nasties that could foul or sour a pipe. Is water going to be as effective as alcohol ? Is alcohol too strong an agent for briar in the long run ?

You're correct about the use of alcohol as an antiseptic, and water does not replace alcohol for that purpose. But while I would use alcohol to clean up an estate, I don't need it for everyday use. The only issue with using alcohol on briar is that it leaches out the silicate over time and it is the silicate content that gives briar its ability to handle heat and moisture. However, it would take a lot more exposure to alcohol than is likely to happen over many years, for that to become a concern.
Most of the time I just do a thorough dry cleaning on the briar, using various kinds of pipe cleaners and a wadded up piece of toweling or two for the chamber. No water or alcohol, just a lot of cleaners. The stem gest flushed out with warm water and then dried. The use of solvents, and water IS a solvent, is something I do after a few day's worth of use. And once or twice a year I do a thorough clean out. But my pipes are kept clean, so it's not much of a clean out.

 

[jpmcwjr]

I was under the impression alcohol was used as an antiseptic to kill bacteria and other hidden nasties that could foul or sour a pipe. Is water going to be as effective as alcohol ? Is alcohol too strong an agent for briar in the long run ?

I've read that prolonged use of alcohol may remove some of the silicates in briar, a bad thing. But no cite, no proof. Hope someone can supply same.
As to killing bacteria, removal is more important, as you don't want dead or alive bacteria making home in your mortise (the most likely spot for bad stuff to happen).

 

[zack24]

My only issue is that water (especially hot water) will absolutely swell the mortise- . Even with the stem in, there is always space betwen the end of the tenon and the floor of the mortise that is anywhere from maybe .02" to .25" like I've seen on Dunhills. Alcohol does not swell the wood...

 

[sablebrush52]

My only issue is that water (especially hot water) will absolutely swell the mortise- . Even with the stem in, there is always space betwen the end of the tenon and the floor of the mortise that is anywhere from maybe .02" to .25" like I've seen on Dunhills. Alcohol does not swell the wood...

My experience is different. Both water and alcohol temporarily swell the wood. When you're smoking a pipe, steam is going into the mortise, so briar gets hit with water all the time. Swelling comes and it goes. For me, water and alcohol are about the same. But again, I live in a dry climate. Might be different in a very humid one.

 

[Chasing Embers]

Shower heads and faucets aren't absobant, but I've had to remove lime buildup a few times from both.

 

[fitzy]

Hmm I'll have to give it a shot. I usually just run a few pipe cleaners through and wipe out the bowl. Once in a while I'll run a cleaner through with a dab of alcohol on it.
I'm a bit skeptical that running water through it will remove much gunk but I will give it a try.

 

[mso489]

I don't have any objection to using water to address a stinky or somewhat clogged pipe, or other issues. Being one of those who maintains a very thin carbon layer by wiping out the bowl with a paper towel/napkin after every smoke, so there is no cake build-up, I am not moved to do this on any regular basis for routine or deep cleaning. It has been pointed out that water is used repeatedly by most pipe makers, factory or artisanal, in making a pipe, so water is not some kind of destructive substance. Like any other cleaning process, if done too often it might induce wear of its own on the finish, but perhaps not much.

 

[aldecaker]

"Shower heads and faucets aren't absobant, but I've had to remove lime buildup a few times from both."
I once worked on an old pickup that the owner was in the habit, for years, of topping up his radiator with the garden hose. Ho. Lee. Shit. What a calcified mess.