Cellaring In Original Packaging (Are They All Safe For The Long-haul?)
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Define long haul. Most tins are fine for a few years or more. Canister tins can last a couple of decades, round metal tins can last decades, square and rectangular tins can last decades. But a lot of the square and rectangular tins lose their seal over time and fail, so I wouldn't age in them if you're thinking a decade or more. Paint cans don't hold up. The contents will dry out over years. I've had canisters fail that were 25 years old and some do just fine at that age. Cutter tops tend to do well. Aging is kind of a crap shoot in many, many ways.
For the long haul, decant the tins when bought and jar them. Or seal up the tins in Mylar heat sealed bags, 7mm thickness. Esoterica bags have been known to develop pinholes in the creases, so bag the bags in 7mm heat sealed Mylar.
But if you're thinking "long haul" is a few years to no more than 7, maybe 8 years tops, most original packaging will hold up that long.
For the long haul, decant the tins when bought and jar them. Or seal up the tins in Mylar heat sealed bags, 7mm thickness. Esoterica bags have been known to develop pinholes in the creases, so bag the bags in 7mm heat sealed Mylar.
But if you're thinking "long haul" is a few years to no more than 7, maybe 8 years tops, most original packaging will hold up that long.
I just opened a 2012 tin of SG FVF that had clearly lost its vacuum seal and the tobacco inside no good. It happens. There is no 100% perfect solution. Some are just better than others. It would seem the most reliable solution is mason jars.
In my cellar, about 60% is tons, 40% bulk in mason jars and 7 mm hear sealed mylar bags. For the most part, I will be smoking the things first. I can accept some small amount of spoilage. It is inevitable. But I'm also not highly concerned. I'm more concerned about disrupting the ain't process by transferring tinned tobacco to jars than I am about spoilage. I've never transferred a tin of tobacco to anything else other than a bowl of my pipe.
In my cellar, about 60% is tons, 40% bulk in mason jars and 7 mm hear sealed mylar bags. For the most part, I will be smoking the things first. I can accept some small amount of spoilage. It is inevitable. But I'm also not highly concerned. I'm more concerned about disrupting the ain't process by transferring tinned tobacco to jars than I am about spoilage. I've never transferred a tin of tobacco to anything else other than a bowl of my pipe.
I just use the original tins due to space concerns, I don't want a pile of mason jars around. Also it makes them easier to resell if I ever want to.
When you say the tobacco inside the compromised tin was no good, do you mean that literally? Did it just dry out to a crisp?
For those who use metric and are confused by the talk about 7 mm thick Mylar (like me), no, there is no quarter inch thick Mylar. The term is usually 7 mil, where a mil is one thousandth of an inch.
On topic: I jar everything that isn’t a round, all metal, screw top tin. No idea if that’s the right choice, but it seems safe.
On topic: I jar everything that isn’t a round, all metal, screw top tin. No idea if that’s the right choice, but it seems safe.
I began cellaring in earnest back in 2012-2013 and have hundreds of mylar bags with pairs of tins sealed inside them. I then keep those mylar bags stored in weathertight trunk cases, which you can buy on sale here.
When I approach the 10 year mark I intend on cutting open a few of the mylar bags, some with round tins and some with square tins, to see how the tins themselves have held up in that environment.
I expect over time some of the tins will be compromised, but hopefully the mylar bags will keep the contents in decent shape.
When I approach the 10 year mark I intend on cutting open a few of the mylar bags, some with round tins and some with square tins, to see how the tins themselves have held up in that environment.
I expect over time some of the tins will be compromised, but hopefully the mylar bags will keep the contents in decent shape.
I have poked around Amazon but not sure which Mylar to get. Would you mind providing a link for what you have used?
Amazon did not seem to have any 7 mil, but I think I found some that would work. I have way too much invested in my cellar to not take these extra steps. Shout out to the OP for reminding me this is something that I need to stop putting off.
I have purchased from mylarpro in the past.
Mylar Pro Bags & O2 Abosorbers | Long Term Food Storage
America's best heavy duty FDA approved long term food storage Mylar Bags, Ziplocks, & Oxygen Absorbers. Build your own emergency and survival food supply.
mylarpro.com
I trust them all, knowing I may get a dud or two in the next ten years. I believe the spoilage rate is well below 1%. Anyone have figures?
I have purchased from mylarpro in the past.
Mylar Pro Bags & O2 Abosorbers | Long Term Food Storage
America's best heavy duty FDA approved long term food storage Mylar Bags, Ziplocks, & Oxygen Absorbers. Build your own emergency and survival food supply.
I use the ones that have a clear side. It makes finding stuff much easier.
This has been my experience. The old flat tins with heavy metal like the Dunhill tins from the England time period and Murray's era, etc, are fantastic regarding holding their seals for many decades.
I have had very few flat tins of Esoterica blends go south. Ditto the old House of Sobranie tobaccos in the flat tins. Their barrel style tins and rectangle tins will have issues on occasion.
The paint can style tins with fancy artwork by many of the old blenders of American "Drug Store" tobaccos are phenomenal. The majority of those heavy metal tins from the 1950's on up seem to retain their moisture exceedingly well.
Capstan out of England is another that is remarkable as the round tins hold up well for many decades. Not so much with the rectangle Capstan tins. The old Cope's Escudo was very hit and miss but the A&C Version is rock solid. In fact, wherever A&C tins were sealed, well, they ought to get a medal.
I better not leave out McClelland's either. Once they went to the vegetable grade rust retardant 100g tins in 1996, their tins have stood the test of time remarkably well. I seldom see a bad one.
I am going to speak "generally" here, but rectangle tins of any vintage for a lot of blending houses has been an issue. They just don't generally hold up as well as the round flat tins.
I personally think that the tins on the market today are very well done and should last for decades - IF, the tobacco inside was not compromised in any way by the blender prior to packing.
Just my 2 cents.
I have had very few flat tins of Esoterica blends go south. Ditto the old House of Sobranie tobaccos in the flat tins. Their barrel style tins and rectangle tins will have issues on occasion.
The paint can style tins with fancy artwork by many of the old blenders of American "Drug Store" tobaccos are phenomenal. The majority of those heavy metal tins from the 1950's on up seem to retain their moisture exceedingly well.
Capstan out of England is another that is remarkable as the round tins hold up well for many decades. Not so much with the rectangle Capstan tins. The old Cope's Escudo was very hit and miss but the A&C Version is rock solid. In fact, wherever A&C tins were sealed, well, they ought to get a medal.
I better not leave out McClelland's either. Once they went to the vegetable grade rust retardant 100g tins in 1996, their tins have stood the test of time remarkably well. I seldom see a bad one.
I am going to speak "generally" here, but rectangle tins of any vintage for a lot of blending houses has been an issue. They just don't generally hold up as well as the round flat tins.
I personally think that the tins on the market today are very well done and should last for decades - IF, the tobacco inside was not compromised in any way by the blender prior to packing.
Just my 2 cents.
I’m not short on space or jars, it sounds silly, but can I just put my sealed tins into a jar and seal that up?
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