1942 Dunhill estate restoration questions

[wagnon85]

In my journey to find a birth year Dunhill, which I wrote about in a previous post, something awoke in me that I hadn't previously known to be there, mainly because I never looked into estate pipes, always buying new. But obviously that was going to change if I wanted a pipe from 1971. And that something was an interest in acquiring an old pipe of historical significance either to me (like a birth year) or just in general. Obviously I was not planning on ponying up the cash for "General MacArthur's pipe from the famous picture" or anything crazy like that, but something like a pipe from the Depression, or WWII, or my mom or dad's birth year, just something a little older than 1971. Being a student of history, I just find tokens and rememberances of the past to be interesting.
Obviously I was going to again have to turn to Dunhills since they are the only ones that you can accurately acertain their manufacturing year, though some of it is akin to interpreting hierogliphics. I wasn't looking for anything specific, just poking around through eBay, and I found a pipe from 1942, which I thought was a cool find considering it was a Dunhill, made in England, during the "turning point year" of World War II. Plus I know that pipe manufacturing took a back seat to the war industries and as a result Dunhill production was down in those years...not saying I have a collector's item or anything, but never the less, a cool item. It's a Root Briar Billiard 34 2R Group 2...and I have to say I got this 70 year old for less than any of my other pipes.
Now the other two Dunhill estates I bought arrived in pristine condition, and I didn't really have to do anything to them. This one on the hand had obviously been used, and not restored, but then that also accounted for the lower price, and since I have an interest in learning the restoration process, it was kind of a win win for me.
This one is used, with lots of cake and rim char/cake, and a little ding out the rim, and some oxidation and teeth marks on the stem.

Surprisingly, it actually arrived in better shape than the pictures make it look, but never the less it will need some work...and while this seems like a cool one to learn on, since structurely everything is good with the pipe, I also don't want to screw it up. So after having gathered information over the years (but never done a restore) I'm going to post what I plan on doing, and let me if that sounds about right to you:
Stem

1. Cover the dot with vaseline and soak it in bleach for however long that takes. Rinse.

2. Use as many bristle pipe cleaners soaked in Everclear as needed until they come out clean.

3. Use Micro Mesh through the whole range of grits to get the stem and the teeth marks cleaned up and shiny

4. Use a stem polish to finish the job
Bowl lip (to get off the char/cake)

1. Do the cotton pad/paper towel soaked in Everclear and then inverting the pipe on the towel with just the lip in contact trick to loosen/remove the charring.

2. Not sure about the ding in the lip, or the roughness around the edge...should I leave as is, or should I try using some Micro Mesh to even it out? Or would you leave it as "character"?
Bowl and shank

3. Going to ream the cake, preferably back to the wood, but will be careful not to be too aggressive.

4. Will use a shank brush, bristle pipe cleaners, and Q-tips with Everclear to clean out the shank and airhole area.

5. Then I will do the Salt and Everclear procedure on the bowl/shank
Anything I am leaving out or forgetting? Or attempting stuff I shouldn't? Would you smooth out the lip or leave as is? If you sand it, how do you match the stain, because I am sure through the cleaning of the lip area some will come off? I do have some Cherry and Walnut stains...they might match well, especially in small areas. Worst case scenario is that I just clean up the stem and then just have it as a look at, but not smoke pipe.

 

[numbersix]

I'm new to cleaning estates, but from what I've read, it sounds like you're on the right track. I question if the bleaching is really necessary (and I am not sure if vaseline is enough to protect the Dunhill white dot.)
I wonder if a bath in oxiclean is enough to both clean and de-oxidize?

 

[wagnon85]

Hmmm, that's a good point about the Oxiclean...we did actually just switch over to using Oxiclean for our laundry instead of bleach because it's better for the ole septic tank! hehe Not to mention it does get the whites much whiter (end Oxiclean commercial! hehe)
Does anyone else know about using Oxiclean vs bleach...on stems that is! And is the Vaseline trick necessary with Oxiclean?

 

[numbersix]

I would want to protect the white dot (just in case since that is so integral to the Dunhill brand) and if there is a Dunhill "inner tube" or any metal, you must protect that as well from oxiclean. I cleaned a stem with a stinger once in Oxiclean and just let it sit upright in a glass with the stinger out of the solution.
Then I used a magic eraser on it and it came out very nice (I do want to pick up some micro-mesh however for future estates.)

 

[ssjones]

That white dot is pretty sturdy, but the oxy soak might discolor it, the vasoline will protect that a little. It certainly can't hurt. If you had a buffer, that would remove the oxidation around the dot, but not hurt it.

Your other stem steps sound good.

Bowl and shank

3. Going to ream the cake, preferably back to the wood, but will be careful not to be too aggressive.

4. Will use a shank brush, bristle pipe cleaners, and Q-tips with Everclear to clean out the shank and airhole area.

5. Then I will do the Salt and Everclear procedure on the bowl/shank

Those are sound steps. Be careful when reaming, keep the bowl from getting out of round.

Not much you can do about the chip, I'd leave it as character. I would be careful with the Everclear no the bowl top, it will remove the stain. If it were my Dunhill, I'd use it very sparingly on the top, just to remove the heavy layer, than move to spit on a rag for the remainder. A light scrubby pad will help with the heavy layer, just be careful.
That is a classic Dunhill and by all reports, should smoke like a dream.

 

[papipeguy]

This pipe appears to be special to you Sending it to a known professional could be the way to go

There a quite a few that will respect your pipe and do it right

If it were a basket pipe then go ahead but a Dunhill should get the best of care

 

[ejames]

2. Not sure about the ding in the lip, or the roughness around the edge...should I leave as is, or should I try using some Micro Mesh to even it out? Or would you leave it as "character"?

Micro-mesh will not take that "ding" out. Actually it is not a ding,looks as if chunk of wood has been broke out. To get rid of it,the pipe will need to be topped and the bowl slightly reshaped or sand the entire bowl -except for the shank.

Bleach shouldn't hurt that dot-they are plastic I believe. Looked like plastic in the one I just restored anyway.

IMO save the Oxyclean for the laundry.

I wouldn't ream it to the wood-ain't necessary.

 

[damnyak]

I'm with ejames here. That ding looks like a chip. Me, I just dealt with a Mouse chewed Dunhill, fixed it with a dremel and resold it.
My procedure for stems and briar are as follows
1. Soak mouth piece in methyl hydrate to break up the tars inside then clean that gunk out.
2. With 600grit wet dry sandpaper go to town on the stem keeping it wet, taking off the oxidization. the white dot does not be affected at all its pretty tough and goes deep within the mouth piece.
3. Then polish the mouth piece with white diamond and carnuba...should be good as new.
4. as for the briar, take some sand paper I would say from 400 all the way to 1000 grit and just reshape...In my opinion a reshape looks better than a chip.
5. get some brown leatehr dye and re dye and polish.

 

[baronsamedi]

Who would be best if you one were going to send it out? I may be in the business of restoring a Dunhill pretty soon and I tend to break stuff.

 

[nightmarejones]

Usually I'm with ejames all the way, but this time I'd say use the oxyclean on the bit side of the stem with a good rinse and some micro-mesh all over to even out the shine.As for the bowl the "chip" is what it is, take it as character unless you want to completely re-finish the whole thing and if you're not an expert in staining I wouldn't try to fix one spot, but the inside and rim should be easily taken care of with a Dremel and some elbow grease.I personally like to take it down to the briar with estates so there's no chance of ghosts, just a break-in period, but that's me.

 

[ejames]

When someone mentions using a Dremel on a pipe it makes the hairs on the back of my neck stand up. As noted previously, since this is a very old Dunhill and the OP is new to pipe restoration having a pro restore this pipe is prudent.

The same thing happens to me!! 8O

but this time I'd say use the oxyclean on the bit side of the stem with a good rinse

Not sure what you mean by "the bit side of the stem".

I dislike Oxyclean because in my opinion all it does is put a slick slimy white coating on a stem(easy enough to remove) and does little in the way of actually removing oxidation. I have tried it on a few stems and don't see any advantage of using it. I've shined up literally hundreds of stems. Light Oxidation I will sand or maybe even buff off. Heavily oxidized stems go into the bleach bath. Bleach will cause a poor quality stem to pit-sometimes quite deeply. Better quality stems will not pit deeply or at all. I know the bleach(which I dilute) will remove the oxidation completely. Oxyclean just doesn't seem to do that.Granted,the sanding and buffing SHOULD remove the oxidation,but I've seen instances were it didn't,and I don't like to go back and re-do any step in the process.I like to make sure it is gone before I start shining up a stem that was moderately to heavily oxidized.

 

[twangthang]

This is a really cool post both for wanting a significantly dated piece of history, and your restoring it.

I think your choice was a great one. All respect to those who suggest sending it out for restoration,

but I think it would make it that much more special and would make you part of the pipes history.

I am new to pipe restoration, but it sounds like you have all the bases well covered.

The chip is character and I vote to keep it. Something happened to the pipe and it's owner,

maybe something insignificant, but maybe something life changing that he would consider everytime he

smoked that pipe and saw that mark.

I hope you will continue this post. I look foward to reading about your first smoke on it.

Jim

 

[ssjones]

I don't trust myself to use coarser than 800 grit paper and usually stick with 1000>1500>2000 grits before moving to the micromesh sheets. I hate removing more stem material than is necessary and/or creating scratches that will have to be sanded out (and also making all the dimensions slightly smaller). I guess that is the balance in restorations. I've rounded a few..
I also can't wait to see this baby all shined up.

 

[numbersix]

I don't trust myself to use coarser than 800 grit paper and usually stick with 1000>1500>2000 grits before moving to the micromesh sheets. I hate removing more stem material than is necessary and/or creating scratches that will have to be sanded out (and also making all the dimensions slightly smaller). I guess that is the balance in restorations. I've rounded a few..

Nice tip Al, thanks - I was wondering how # of sandpaper is safe to use on a stem. My local hardware only offers 600 - looks like a trip to Home Depot is in order.

 

[ssjones]

Autoparts stores are best bet for 800>1000>1500>2000 grades and now even 3000 grit wet paper.

 

[wagnon85]

Thanks for all the feedback from everyone...I realized I had started this thread and then disappeared! hehe I had read everything, just hadn't replied. Sorry for the length of this but I just wanted to update.
I understand people's trepidation that a 1942 Dunhill should be my first pipe restoration! hehe However I do have a background in model making, tools, and woodworking so I feel confident in my abilities not to push something too far (using a Dremel or 100 grit sandpaper and the like! hehe). Not to mention, my goal going into this was to restore the pipe to smoking condition, but if at any time in the process it seemed like proceeding to the next step would damage or ruin the pipe, then I would stop and leave it as a cool historical item (ie non-smoking pipe).
I have to say that I finally did start the process, and everything is progressing very well and the pipe is responding splendidly. Getting 70 years of gunk and tar out of the stem was proving time consuming and I was powering through my supply of bristle pipe cleaners, so I soaked the stem in Everclear for a few hours, standing it upright and at an angle in a glass and all the stuff dissolved and fell out. It is clean as a whistle. And it responded well to the diluted bleach soak, all the oxidation is gone and the surface didn't even get very pitted or rough. Next is the the micromesh and the polishing.
As for the bowl, I did the rim on the alcohol pad thing to loosen up the char/tar ring and wiped it off the best I could. Then I very lightly sanded the top of fully clean it, noticing that in addition to the chunk out of the side, there was some roughness at the back of the bowl rim, which is somewhat visible in the pics above. It was roughness like if the edge had be scrapped along concrete or something. So I used a very fine grit sandpaper to smooth that out, and to very slightly round over the outer edge of the bowl, basically just taking the now sharp edge and smoothing it. Then I went over the top of the bowl and the edge with a very fine grain sandpaper and it polished it all up.
I used a bunch of bristle cleaners, Q-tips, and shank brushes with Everclear to clean the shank and airhole. I used my Senior reamer to clean out the bowl.
So as we sit now, the stem is fully cleaned and sterilized and is awaiting the Micromesh. The bowl is packed with salt and alcohol and is getting that treatment. Tomorrow or Saturday I will empty the bowl and get back to work with pipe cleaners and Everclear. And then I will got about matching the stain on the rim...already did a preliminary stain and it looks pretty close.
I will post pictures when I am done.

 

[ssjones]

Sounds like the job is going well, I'll look forward to those pix.

 

[wagnon85]

The above was my 50th post, now I'm a Junior! Yah!
One thing I forgot to mention above (surprising that I actually forgot something considering how much I wrote) but when I did the light sanding on the rim and around the edge, I did my best to retain the chunk and the pits and other dings from the rough area at the back. I wanted to smooth things down so more didn't happen, but I didn't want to totally get rid of them since they are character. Not to mention shaving it back enough to get rid of those would border on having to reshape the bowl since I'd have to take off so much wood. I just wanted to smooth, not reshape and remove.

 

[numbersix]

Autoparts stores are best bet for 800>1000>1500>2000 grades and now even 3000 grit wet paper.

Thanks for this tip Al - I didn't know that.

 

[topd]

Can't wait to see the 'after' photo's!