S.T. Dupont Lighter Owners Club

[BT1974]

are the St Dupont lighters superior to the Dunhill Rolagas?

I don't have any experience with Dunhills, so I can't say which is better. But I have overhauled 5 Duponts. I like to tinker with things and at the end of the day, these are a solid brass body with brass parts (well, most of the time, anyway) and replaceable rubber gaskets. They should theoretically run forever. The interesting thing is that there are so many different versions of what looks like the same lighter from the outside, aside from just the BS vs BR models. I think I had 3 different gas shut off systems on Ligne 1 small BRs.
I get a lot of satisfaction from taking a 60 year old lighter which spews butane and making it function perfectly again.

 

[Mury]

I don't have any experience with Dunhills, so I can't say which is better. But I have overhauled 5 Duponts. I like to tinker with things and at the end of the day, these are a solid brass body with brass parts (well, most of the time, anyway) and replaceable rubber gaskets. They should theoretically run forever. The interesting thing is that there are so many different versions of what looks like the same lighter from the outside, aside from just the BS vs BR models. I think I had 3 different gas shut off systems on Ligne 1 small BRs.
I get a lot of satisfaction from taking a 60 year old lighter which spews butane and making it function perfectly again.

that sounds like a lot of fun actually! I’d love to get a DuPont for sure.

 

[EA-6B]

My L1 table lighter had a hidden hinge pin assembly with a part that screwed over top of hinge pin, iirc. It's been a while since I refreshed the one that I had. It's different there than other L1s, though.

I guess if you know someone who can attempt to re-plate it properly for a deal, maybe try it to see how it goes.

Looking at the pics with the broken/missing lid piece, & those areas of the panels shown in the pics don't look like they need to be re-plated. I don't even see wear on the top points of the patterns. Maybe on a few of them, but that might just be tarnish sitting on the low spot at the tips of those points. I feel like I could get those panels to a mirror shine, with nearly zero impact on the existing plating, & it looks like the existing plating is still fully intact for the most part. I just see plating & tarnish there. maybe there's some brass showing through somewhere, but I don't see it.

 

[EA-6B]

OK so it looks like you have part of the monoblock missing by the hinge on both of those table lighters, I was thinking it was part of the lid earlier. But I guess if there is nothing missing that needs to be there, then you could try to continue with them. I can't remember exactly how those work, so can't say if that area needs to be there or not.

 

[BT1974]

If the hole for the L2 flame adjuster had been pinched down from a bad corner shot to where it interferes with the adjuster action or removal of the valve body, you can open it up. Roll 150g sandpaper into a tight solid tube to the diameter that you need & sink it into the opening & start spinning. If you go in the opposite direction that you wrapped the tube in, it will open up a little & grab the walls better as it sands. Once it's clear enough, you can polish it the same way with finer paper. I had that happen once, & that's how I solved it.

You're a genius!!!!! This thing is beat to hell but I still like it and can't wait to learn about the L2!!! THANK YOU!!!!!

 

[BT1974]

OK so it looks like you have part of the monoblock missing by the hinge on both of those table lighters, I was thinking it was part of the lid earlier. But I guess if there is nothing missing that needs to be there, then you could try to continue with them. I can't remember exactly how those work, so can't say if that area needs to be there or not.

I have seen other Table lighters with that same piece missing. Not sure what the monoblock is, but I have a part which goes behind (towards the interior) the hinge pin. It kind of pinches the pin between it and the piece which is missing. But I don't think the missing chunk is critical. The lighting isn't great in those pictures and I can definitely see brass coming through on the "complete" body. The "spare" body is in really good shape and would polish up nicely.

 

[EA-6B]

Monoblock = the lower main body. May as well keep going with it, to see how far you can get.

This thing is beat to hell but I still like it and can't wait to learn about the L2!!! THANK YOU!!!!! View attachment 426979

Nice, & you didn't snap off the ears! There's a lot to learn, & that's a hard lesson. Couple things you might want to do next is find the foam donut if it didn't come out around the plunger at the top of the valve. If not then it's probably stuck to the bottom of the monoblock around the hole or floating around in the tank. You can also fish out the white carbon sack, & dispose of both of them. Replace the donut with the same-sized rubber o-ring used between the monoblock & the castle up top, & you don't really need the carbon sack if you use decent butane 5x or better, & most of the decent stuff is better than that. You can put a wrap of teflon on the top threads but leave the threads on the small piece clean. Other than that, fresh o-rings, silicone grease on the fresh o-rings, some super lube on the ball bearing in there, & you should be good to go. The only things left would be the internal dot seal which is doable but you need a tool. And then maybe the white regulator disc might need replacement if it's not still in one piece. If you need a disc you either have to scrounge a known-good one, or send it in for authorized service. They might tell you you need to buy the whole valve, I'm not really sure on that. If you're cleaning everything, I would leave the white disc on the end of the brass piece & simply not clean either of them. If you remove the disc, the most you want to do is soak it with a drop of iso & blot it dry a couple times to clean it, & leave it at that. If it's delaminating then you can try to reuse it, but really you probably need a new disc then.

 

[BT1974]

Monoblock = the lower main body. May as well keep going with it, to see how far you can get.


Nice, & you didn't snap off the ears! There's a lot to learn, & that's a hard lesson. Couple things you might want to do next is find the foam donut if it didn't come out around the plunger at the top of the valve. If not then it's probably stuck to the bottom of the monoblock around the hole or floating around in the tank. You can also fish out the white carbon sack, & dispose of both of them. Replace the donut with the same-sized rubber o-ring used between the monoblock & the castle up top, & you don't really need the carbon sack if you use decent butane 5x or better, & most of the decent stuff is better than that. You can put a wrap of teflon on the top threads but leave the threads on the small piece clean. Other than that, fresh o-rings, silicone grease on the fresh o-rings, some super lube on the ball bearing in there, & you should be good to go. The only things left would be the internal dot seal which is doable but you need a tool. And then maybe the white regulator disc might need replacement if it's not still in one piece. If you need a disc you either have to scrounge a known-good one, or send it in for authorized service. They might tell you you need to buy the whole valve, I'm not really sure on that. If you're cleaning everything, I would leave the white disc on the end of the brass piece & simply not clean either of them. If you remove the disc, the most you want to do is soak it with a drop of iso & blot it dry a couple times to clean it, & leave it at that. If it's delaminating then you can try to reuse it, but really you probably need a new disc then.

I think I buggered up the internal threads on the valve when I was trying to remove it before you showed me the way, so I will likely replace it anyway. But might also see if I can recut the threads. The small piece won't screw back in all the way. Plus having one which I know to be functional serves as an example for me with future lighters. I am pretty sure I retained all the parts. The carbon sack did come out and I panicked a little. But it got me looking at the inside of the monoblock (Thanks again for the proper terminology) which helps me understand how the gas goes from the can to the nozzle.

 

[EA-6B]

I think I buggered up the internal threads on the valve when I was trying to remove it before you showed me the way, so I will likely replace it anyway. But might also see if I can recut the threads. The small piece won't screw back in all the way. Plus having one which I know to be functional serves as an example for me with future lighters. I am pretty sure I retained all the parts. The carbon sack did come out and I panicked a little. But it got me looking at the inside of the monoblock (Thanks again for the proper terminology) which helps me understand how the gas goes from the can to the nozzle.

Yeah looks like some of the threads on the valve body & the splines on the end of the small piece got torn up. If you need the splined piece, those are probably easier to find. The valve body - especially a shortie - is going to be scarcer & more $$. You probably have to stick with authentic parts, I've tried an aftermarket tall valve body, & the threads are different. (The internals are trash too, so not even worth it for those). I've seen aftermarket shortie valve assemblies recently as a new thing, so maybe those will fit. I doubt it, but maybe worth it to you to try one.

Going through my Line1 parts to find examples of lid-stop pads:
The two on the left are the flat bare brass surface. The both have some wear from the lid-stop striking them. Eventually that wear would get bad enough to let the lid open far wider than normal. Those two would benefit from my daily-proven custom lid-stop pad upgrade. The next two have the factory thin steel plate+pin, & there's a loose plate+pin below them. One of the springs is broken & you can see the plate more easily. Those are more durable than the bare brass stops, but wear & rust-through can still be an issue. On the right is the factory wide steel pin solution. Those can also rust, but usually just surface rust & not a thin plate rusting through. They also seem to wear better in general than the other two solutions.

Below that is the good ol' spring box. The cam is missing its delrin bushing. & the pin is also uninstalled. The delrin bushing from a two-piece lid bearing (in the bag) fits. I'll say one good thing about those delrin bushings, they almost never go bad. Which is good, because have fun changing that one. I tell everyone just leave that whole spring box thing alone! If the bushing goes bad &/or the spring box loosens & starts to float, usually the lid starts clicking through its motion & the spring tension feels off. Sometimes when closing the lid might start bouncing open like this:

I worked out another daily-proven solution for the floating spring box, but if that bushing goes, I might think twice about dealing with it. The good thing is that usually they don't go bad. I think I had one high-mileage unit where I'm pretty sure it was bad & was just clicking, & another that I damaged myself when trying to work out my spring box solution, & I actually had one lighter which ran better without it (the delrin bushing) in there, but that unit already had a list of problems, so it didn't surprise me.

 

[BT1974]

Yeah looks like some of the threads on the valve body & the splines on the end of the small piece got torn up. If you need the splined piece, those are probably easier to find. The valve body - especially a shortie - is going to be scarcer & more $$. You probably have to stick with authentic parts, I've tried an aftermarket tall valve body, & the threads are different. (The internals are trash too, so not even worth it for those). I've seen aftermarket shortie valve assemblies recently as a new thing, so maybe those will fit. I doubt it, but maybe worth it to you to try one.

Going through my Line1 parts to find examples of lid-stop pads:
The two on the left are the flat bare brass surface. The both have some wear from the lid-stop striking them. Eventually that wear would get bad enough to let the lid open far wider than normal. Those two would benefit from my daily-proven custom lid-stop pad upgrade. The next two have the factory thin steel plate+pin, & there's a loose plate+pin below them. One of the springs is broken & you can see the plate more easily. Those are more durable than the bare brass stops, but wear & rust-through can still be an issue. On the right is the factory wide steel pin solution. Those can also rust, but usually just surface rust & not a thin plate rusting through. They also seem to wear better in general than the other two solutions.
View attachment 427201
Below that is the good ol' spring box. The cam is missing its delrin bushing. & the pin is also uninstalled. The delrin bushing from a two-piece lid bearing (in the bag) fits. I'll say one good thing about those delrin bushings, they almost never go bad. Which is good, because have fun changing that one. I tell everyone just leave that whole spring box thing alone! If the bushing goes bad &/or the spring box loosens & starts to float, usually the lid starts clicking through its motion & the spring tension feels off. Sometimes when closing the lid might start bouncing open like this:
View attachment 427200
I worked out another daily-proven solution for the floating spring box, but if that bushing goes, I might think twice about dealing with it. The good thing is that usually they don't go bad. I think I had one high-mileage unit where I'm pretty sure it was bad & was just clicking, & another that I damaged myself when trying to work out my spring box solution, & I actually had one lighter which ran better without it (the delrin bushing) in there, but that unit already had a list of problems, so it didn't surprise me.

Am I correct that there is a difference between the valve body for the L2 shorty and the Gatsby? I am starting to really like this lighter and am now thinking I want to clean up the brass a little bit. What are your thoughts. on that? The bottom is really pitted, but I am super hesitant to polish that up because I don't want to scrub off the serial number. But if I am keeping it for my own use, who cares? I always knew I needed a new bonnet plate and screw, and as you might imagine the flame adjustment cap didn't come out very easily, nor did the filling cap. So I need those as well. I will just keep a look out for those parts and grab them when I see them.

Going to move onto getting my D57 running...
ANNNNNDDDDD.....the spring flew out again....

 

[EA-6B]

Am I correct that there is a difference between the valve body for the L2 shorty and the Gatsby? I am starting to really like this lighter and am now thinking I want to clean up the brass a little bit. What are your thoughts. on that? The bottom is really pitted, but I am super hesitant to polish that up because I don't want to scrub off the serial number. But if I am keeping it for my own use, who cares? I always knew I needed a new bonnet plate and screw, and as you might imagine the flame adjustment cap didn't come out very easily, nor did the filling cap. So I need those as well. I will just keep a look out for those parts and grab them when I see them.

Going to move onto getting my D57 running...
ANNNNNDDDDD.....the spring flew out again....

The Gatsby is just a style of the L2 shorty. The valves should be compatible between them. Some authentic compatible valves may have cosmetic differences, depending on when they were made.

You won't polish off the S/N, but you might polish off the plating. I do very mild cleaning & polishing. Dirt & tarnish removal. Whatever scratches are there are going to stay, but it will be clean & the smooth plating will brightnen up.

If you need a new beauty plate under the lid, then aftermarket would fit, but not the screw because the threads are different. You would need a stock screw or find a compatable one. If you need a new fill cap, then aftermarket would fit. If you need a new flame adjustment cap or screw there, then aftermarket won't work. The cap won't work because the splines don't match & will skip after a few uses. The screw won't work because while it will thread in, it stands proud of the adjustment cap by at least half a mm or maybe a little more. The only thing you can use from the aftermarket adjustment cap are the D-ring & the D-ring pins.


Anyone know what these parts are from? I know they're Dupont, not sure if they are D57, early L1, or what.

 

[EA-6B]

Burned a spare part to make a fast tool :

Made a 'speed-driver' to run in & out the splined regulator valve bodies of Line1 lighters.
Soldered the flat brass original part to the bottom of a telescopic antenna which had a flat brass base there already, & then dremeled off the nubs so I can spin it freely without hitting anything.

You can also see the spring-box in there, just don't even mess with those things if you go in there. You can clean & re-lube them right where they are! I lock those in place now with a daily-proven custom upgrade to fix or avoid 'floating spring-box'. You can also see the lid-stop with some grease on it, to the left of the steel roller bearing. The lid-stop hits the lid-stop pad on the bottom of the 'castle'. After years & years that can cause enough wear to open past the pad & cause the wide-open lid condition, but luckily I also have a daily-proven custom upgrade for that problem too.

 

[EA-6B]

Meant to say "BR" models, not "BS" models, in an earlier post:
BR models, not BS models
(Sorry for any confusion, I can never keep those straight. The BS models are the earliest L1s, which I don't know much about. The BR models have the barrel-style flame adjuster.)

 

[EA-6B]

Can anyone identify what the circled part belongs to?

All of these came together in a Dupont parts haul, but I also took a look at Dunhil Rollagas diagrams & didn't see a match there either. Pretty sure it's a Dupont part, though.

 

[EA-6B]

Why I inspect & whenever needed fix the lid-stop pads on all of my Line1s during a refresh, with my daily-proven lid-stop pad repair:
Line1 lid-stop pad carnage

 

[EA-6B]

Line1 parts haul, brand new aftermarket.
A couple of these things have never been available on the aftermarket until fairly recently, so it's really great to see some of this stuff.
New supplier & I haven't actually tried any of this yet, so I'll report back if the parts are tits or shyte.

I have this L1 Shortie still in need of a refresh, but I've been robbing parts out of it in order to finish refreshing other units.

It's been waiting for a fill-valve, & I think the regulator stack needs a new square-shouldered o-ring, & now I have them.

 

[EA-6B]

Would the new Pipe Flame nozzles be good enough for you?
The gas ports on the new ones are much smaller than the one I have already:

I went through & tested each new one, & they all burn with a thinner flame at higher pressure, & will blow itself out after a couple inches.
Check the pics & vids to compare & tell me if you think they suck or would be good enough for you. I already have it in my mind that I want to return them, but maybe I'll keep them & offer them as an optional install at a steep discount. I've already put my old one back on my daily.

My daily Pipe Flame nozzle as high as it will go before it blows itself out:

New pipe flame nozzle as high as it will go before it blows out:

Old Nozzle, Flame Adjustment

New Nozzle, Flame Adjustment

 

[EA-6B]

These new Pipe-Flame nozzles with the smaller port are going to be a no-go, I re-installed one to run it for a tank just to see how it would be trying to actually daily one, & right away started having ignition issues. A new flint didn't help, so I put my old Pipe Flame nozzle back on, & the problem went away.

 

[EA-6B]

I've been communicating with the parts-supplier, & he's saying that he's switched his supply to the good Pipe-Flame nozzles that I'm familiar with using, & will be send replacements.

-Current report on testing the rest of the new parts so far:

-The nozzle-tools that I bought are actually for the older 'BS' Line1 models, not the 'BR' models that I work on. That was my mistake, but he is giving me credit for them as a return.

-They made a mistake on the Line1 Tall fill-valve threads, & he's going to send me correct replacements in a couple weeks once he has more made:
(New aftermarket Line1 Tall Fill-Valve above, original below.)



-Finally, I noticed that he makes a variety of Line1 slotted & D-ring fill caps, so I'm going to have him add a gold-plated D-Ring fill cap for Line1 Talls, so I can evaluate it.

I've been happy so far with everything else that he sent, although I did mention to him that his L1 Shortie fill-valves might run more reliably if he switches to the 3-eared seal instead of the included circular disc seal.
(I'm not even 100% sure on that one, but that's what I seem to have been noticing in the short amount of time that I've been testing them so far.)

So hopefully in about three weeks I should have some more good news. He said he would even ship the D-ring & nozzles out now, but I said 'just ship them with the replacement L1 Tall fill valves, if that makes more sense', so that's the plan.

 

[EA-6B]

I thought it would be interesting to reach out to the first person who had received my lid-stop pad upgrades around five years ago. He sent me three units for full refreshes back then, & he says that he still uses all of them all of the time. He was gracious enough to send me an updated pic so I could check the lid angles...

...& they all still look to be where they should be!
Full disclosure, I forget if I did two or three pad upgrades across these units. One of the lighters had much less wear overall, & I may have only done two pad upgrades. I asked him, & he can't remember either, lol. But he says that he uses all of them regularly, so either way it would go to show that the stock pads still have a long lifespan, & also that my daily-proven lid-stop pad upgrade also does well. And while it could be fair to argue that 'well he's spreading his usage across three units', I had already run the upgrade on my daily & a couple other test units for at least a year before implementing it on other units for sale, & I have upgraded maybe two or three dozen since then, that are presumably still out there now, & I haven't had any of my customers coming back yet needing tech support for any lid-stop pad issues, stock or upgraded. (And if they do, I always have my daily-proven solution that I can implement!)