I’ve been dealing with my collection which is mostly estates and realizing that some pipes, even after hours and hours of sanding and polishing still have bits of oxidation I can not get rid of. Some of them have oxidation just inside the button. It seems I can never get it all and this is frustrating me. Should I give up expecting it all to be gone and accept there’s always going to be a little? I have no power tools, BTW.
Is 0% Oxidation Possible?
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Remove oxidation and then keep them pilished and oiled regularly. Keeping sunlight off them aids as well. Once it is under control, it is possible to stay ahead of the game, but you do need to keep them oiled and polished. James Upshall and Charatans are the absolute worst it seems.
Could you share your process of burning it off?
I singe the oxidation working in small sections at a time with the tip of a lighter flame and then wipe away the blackened areas with a wet paper towel. I return the shine by thumb buffing with toothpaste to a mirror finish.
Do you need to keep the flame moving? How easy is it to melt the Vulcanite?
Yes, imagine painting just the surface of the stem black using the very tip of the flame like a paint brush.
Very. If you smell hot rubber, you've left the flame in one place for too long.
I love the result, Embers!
I used a similar method to spit-shine Army Boots. Apply polish, “paint” with a lighter and rag to a mirror shine. Fixing a scuff was as simple as applying flame to the spot.
I used a similar method to spit-shine Army Boots. Apply polish, “paint” with a lighter and rag to a mirror shine. Fixing a scuff was as simple as applying flame to the spot.
This….is incredible.
How do you know it is actually oxidation? I’m not a chemist or materials scientist, but I’d love it if one chimed in here.
I do know that modern rubber compounds are much better than old ones. Rubber making was often a seat-of-the-pants operation, and that sometimes resulted in less-than perfect formulations.
My solution is to not worry about gray/green stems, and to simply re-dye them if they look cruddy.
I do know that modern rubber compounds are much better than old ones. Rubber making was often a seat-of-the-pants operation, and that sometimes resulted in less-than perfect formulations.
My solution is to not worry about gray/green stems, and to simply re-dye them if they look cruddy.
Which suggests that the rubber formulation had too much sulfur in it. It doesn’t necessarily mean that it is oxidized. Saliva and hot water cause the same reaction.
Amazing job, i just went back and read your other posts on this and the videos you linked, I have two P Holm estates and the stems aren't horrible but i did one with wet sanding and working up to a super fine grit then microfiber to a "shine" .. the other one I'm going to do with flame, if i eff up at least the stems are interchangeable ... One Stem, Two Bowls... could be the new interest sensation ROFL
Getting oxidation out of the space just inside the bit is a nightmare. Yes, I’ve begun oiling after every use and covering/storing. I bit into my Dunhill where it had oxidized and left a mark and now I can’t buff it out as hard as I try and there’s a little tin-tiny spot of oxidation. Maybe I’ll try burning it but I’m afraid.
Just as oxidation with metal, moisture causing rust. Steam will flash oxidize vulcanite.
Nah, a pipe cleaner coated in an abrasive like Comet or Barkeeper's Friend can scrub it out.
The churchwarden cleaners are real handy for it. Tie one end to a faucet and run the stem up and down the cleaner to clean it out.