++ pruss. The only other thing I do is leave the pipe cleaner in the pipe until I smoke it again. It absorbs the residual moisture. Works for me.
What Are Your Thoughts On This Argument 4 Effective Pipecleaner Use?
- Thread starter puffndave
- Start date
SmokingPipes.com Updates
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
Site Sponsors
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
- Status
A well made pipe can take a sh!t ton of abuse, that's what they're made for, after all. So in my book step one is always: don't sweat it, everything is going to be ok.
After smoking I'll remove ash, wipe out the bowl with a paper or cloth (make a plug and corkscrew it into the bowl), run a cleaner through the stem to bowl and blow out any remnants. Five minutes later, I open my pipes and clean out what;s left with as many pipe cleaners as it takes until they come out clean, usually two. Afterward I'll clean the rim and call it a day.
I used to leave my pipes over night prior to cleaning but found doing so made cleaning more of a chore as the pipes were less apt to give up their gunk once cool without using alcohol.
After smoking I'll remove ash, wipe out the bowl with a paper or cloth (make a plug and corkscrew it into the bowl), run a cleaner through the stem to bowl and blow out any remnants. Five minutes later, I open my pipes and clean out what;s left with as many pipe cleaners as it takes until they come out clean, usually two. Afterward I'll clean the rim and call it a day.
I used to leave my pipes over night prior to cleaning but found doing so made cleaning more of a chore as the pipes were less apt to give up their gunk once cool without using alcohol.
I more or less clean my pipe(s) with a combination of the above mentioned procedures.
However, one thing that I personally would never do is run a pipe cleaner in the stem to absorb the moisture and then leaving it in the stem. Sure, it's going to absorb the moisture, but then how can that moisture escape/evaporate if it's still stuck in the stem. It just seems counterproductive to me, but whatever works for you is all that really matters and we've all adopted our preferred procedures and habits over the years. All in all, it's not exactly rocket science and the bottom line is: a clean pipe makes for a better smoke.
However, one thing that I personally would never do is run a pipe cleaner in the stem to absorb the moisture and then leaving it in the stem. Sure, it's going to absorb the moisture, but then how can that moisture escape/evaporate if it's still stuck in the stem. It just seems counterproductive to me, but whatever works for you is all that really matters and we've all adopted our preferred procedures and habits over the years. All in all, it's not exactly rocket science and the bottom line is: a clean pipe makes for a better smoke.
I have been smoking pipes since 62 when I was at University, and always take the stem out right after I smoke and clean with a couple of pipe cleaners so it will remove the tars before they cool and set up. I have never noticed that it hurt the pipe, and I have never broken a stem. I'm sure if you were careless doing this, you could ruin a pipe, but I just do it the way I saw my father do it before me.
Oh, the crap people put themselves through in the pursuit of trying to do it right. I've heard the "never take off the stem" nonsense. I think that it's a ploy by pipe makers to cause their sold stock to develop foul mortises and sinking sour flavors so that the stink will force the pipe's owners to buy replacement pipes.
Some pipe carvers, such as Jim Cooke, have said that the stem should never be removed. But this is meant to deter those who would remove the stem after EVERY bowl, as constant removal could lead to problems by placing excess stress on the shank. After all, if the stem was never meant to be removed then why did Dunhill place a dot on the stem to indicate which side is up?
I'll run a pipe cleaner or two through the airway between bowls if I'm having more than one in a day. But I'll remove the stem and clean out the airway and mortise at the end of a days use. I'll use tapered bristle pipe cleaners to scrub out the shank airway and mortise and fluffies to soak up moisture. For the mortise, I'll fold up a pipe cleaner enough to make for a firm fit and swab out the mortise. For the stem, I'll use fluffies and/or bristles which have been dipped in isopropyl alcohol to remove gunk. When the pipe cleaners come out substantially clean, I'm done with cleaning the shank and stem.
Unless I'm getting some sort of ghosting, or I'm cleaning up an estate for the first time, I avoid using alcohol in the shank as it's not good for briar. Exposure of briar to alcohol needs to be kept to a minimum since alcohol leaches out mineral soluables in the briar that contribute to both it's heat resistance and its moisture absorption. Overindulgence in cleaning with alcohol can gradually reduce a pipe to a hot wet smoker.
The chamber gets cleaned out with a folded pipe cleaner or two, dragged over the walls to remove loose tobacco particulates and dottle, and is next wiped with a paper towel.
As soon as I've cleaned out the airway I reassemble the pipe and put it away to rest for a week or longer.
Some pipe carvers, such as Jim Cooke, have said that the stem should never be removed. But this is meant to deter those who would remove the stem after EVERY bowl, as constant removal could lead to problems by placing excess stress on the shank. After all, if the stem was never meant to be removed then why did Dunhill place a dot on the stem to indicate which side is up?
I'll run a pipe cleaner or two through the airway between bowls if I'm having more than one in a day. But I'll remove the stem and clean out the airway and mortise at the end of a days use. I'll use tapered bristle pipe cleaners to scrub out the shank airway and mortise and fluffies to soak up moisture. For the mortise, I'll fold up a pipe cleaner enough to make for a firm fit and swab out the mortise. For the stem, I'll use fluffies and/or bristles which have been dipped in isopropyl alcohol to remove gunk. When the pipe cleaners come out substantially clean, I'm done with cleaning the shank and stem.
Unless I'm getting some sort of ghosting, or I'm cleaning up an estate for the first time, I avoid using alcohol in the shank as it's not good for briar. Exposure of briar to alcohol needs to be kept to a minimum since alcohol leaches out mineral soluables in the briar that contribute to both it's heat resistance and its moisture absorption. Overindulgence in cleaning with alcohol can gradually reduce a pipe to a hot wet smoker.
The chamber gets cleaned out with a folded pipe cleaner or two, dragged over the walls to remove loose tobacco particulates and dottle, and is next wiped with a paper towel.
As soon as I've cleaned out the airway I reassemble the pipe and put it away to rest for a week or longer.
Thanks, all, for your helpfull advice. I think I'm siding with the idea that there's nothing wrong with removing a pipe stem when you don't leave it out overnight, especially when removing it hot can help make your cleaning efforts more effective. Mine don't look like they would easily break, and anyway I always did that (with care) before I heard somebody say otherwise.
Sablebrush, if it should happen that you need a mark to determine which side of your pipe stem is right side up (presuming it's a straight), then why would it matter?
Sablebrush, if it should happen that you need a mark to determine which side of your pipe stem is right side up (presuming it's a straight), then why would it matter?
- Status