I agree Sable. 2oz C&D and McClelland tins are the safest to cellar due to the fact that they don’t have that soldier joint like the 100 gr and larger tins
PSA: Check Your Tins Folks!
- Thread starter Winnipeger
- Start date
I wrap around the seal joint on 50gm/2oz tins with this Silicone tape. It forms an airtight barrier should the seal fail and will maintain the tobacco at least until I check and discover the failed tin.
It's been a couple of weeks now and I've given the Samuel Gawith Balkan Flake every chance. I smoked it wet and dry, broken it up and packed it every way I can think of and mixed it with other blends. I'm sorry to say, but this is one looser of a blend. Not only does it not want to burn but it also just plain taste b-a-d ! I consider it wasted money. I'know, some reviewers on the web liked it.... go figure!Update: I let the Balkan Flake day out and it does smoke a littler better. However, like someone else pointed out the stuff is almost impossible to light. So, I used an old trick that has worked before. I fill the pipe 2/3 with the flake, then top it off with something else that will burn. In this case some Proper English which works because they are both Latakia blends. But I take it another step. I use some of the small grains that accumulate at the bottom of the humidore, because they burn easily and because this is a good use for them as they can stop up your draft hole if they're at the bottom of a bowl. They burn well and will start the Flake burning and problem solved. Some "purest" might think this mixing is sacrilege, but it works for me.
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It's been a while now and I'm still trying to make the Samuel Gawith Balkan Flake into something smokable by mixing it with other tobacco. No luck so far. The stuff just does not want to burn even in a 50/50 mix. I've come to the conclusion that it's a blend of asbestos and fire retardant.
I think I'm gonna give this a try on my Gawith stuff. I know that sometimes they have had problems, but I love their stuff a lot and even though I haven't had an issue, better safe than sorry. I'll keep buying either way!
I was very happy to find that each tin of my 5-tin boxed set of Dunhill from 1999 weighed in the 117g-118g range!
Probably a good maintenance step to check the tins now and then. I live in a fairly humid climate year-round, so even if the seal failed - the leaf wouldn't dry out too quickly.
Clarifying question: do you ever open tins and store them in Mylar? Or do you store the tins in Mylar until time to crack them, then you generally keep it in jars? The tin in the bag? Just the bag?
I haven’t stored tins in Mylar yet but if/when I do I would jar them once opened. Tins in Mylar is just an added precautionary measure against failing seals, specifically square tins. If I had a large inventory of square tins I probably would store them in Mylar until use, from what I’ve gathered it’s a good practice for square tins, some use oxygen absorbers but I don’t know if they are necessary or even detrimental. Most of us just stick the tins in a container and forget about them. I get a whiff of tobacco from my totes but I’m not too worried. Hopefully that answers your questions.
IIRC, I think others have discovered / speculated that tins in metallized mylar may enhance the chances of a rusty tin.
It does. Was curious, curiosity satisfied. It's nice to get an idea of common practices.
Please let us know what resin. I need some new stuff for my instagram.
I always took you as a tik tok kinda guy.
Mock all you want but there are dozens of us. DOZENSSSSS!!!
This is a timely reminder. Last night I really felt like some Sam Gawith FVF, sure enough the tin i grabbed wasn't sealed. The contents look ok, it's only maybe a year and a half old, but it is on the dry side. Glad I didn't try to cellar those tins for 5 or 10 years! Lesson learned.
Wow, so you found a way to dry FVF? I think I'll pop all of mine and just let them set in the cellar for a few years.
As recommended by the supplier of my Mylar bags, I use a hair styling iron. Quick and easy.