Title says it all, any good ways to remove vulcanite oxidation without removing nomenclature impression stamped into a rubber stem? I'm cleaning up a old 'Civic Special' that has a stem stamp I would like to preserve.
Doc
Hopefully the stamping is deep enough for you to go over it with sandpaper. I've used a light touch with 1000 grit and then onto micro mesh and carnuba as usual on old Charatan's that have the "Regd No" stamped into the stem. If it's been worked on already and is fading, I leave the sandpaper out and begin with micro mesh. Starting with micro mesh is more time consuming but you're removing less material so better control. Sablebrush suggested working around nomenclature as best as possible with cosmetic q tips and Simichrome Polish. I haven't tried that method yet but he knows his stuff. I bought some Simichrome to have for when I run into an issue that warrants it.
http://pipesmagazine.com/forums/topic/any-advise-on-removing-oxidation-from-a-stem-that-has-nomenclature
There's the link I regurgitated all this from.
I wrap the papers used popsicle stick works for getting close to the logo during sanding. A piece of tape over the stamping is what I use when buffing.
Newbroom: I use a paint stick. It's like a on but is actually paint. Just warm the end of the stick and rub it back and forth over the logo, then with a flat paper towel or rag, wipe off the excess. It'll dry in a few minutes and you can than gently buff it with wax. I have them in white, red, and yellow. Of course you can use a regular on too, but unless the logo has some depth it won't last as long. I'd tell you where to buy the paint sticks, but I can't remember as I've had mine for over 20 years.
I did a Kiko last year. I used oxyclean for the stem and it took the elephant right off. I was careful around the imprint while removing oxidation and then before I buffed I hit it with Testors white enamel, let that dry a few days, buffed and reapplied the enamel. It came out nice. That paint stick seems like it would save some time though.
Mine looked like it was stamped into the stem. I paid no attention to the lines. Just glopped it on there and quickly wiped off the rest from the parts where it didn't belong. Next time around I would use the popsical stick to get as close as I could to the stamp without disturbing it and then do the same with the enamel. Al is full of good experience I put into practice when I can.
Newbroom, I have done several Kiko pipes (and others) by applying Tipp-Ex. Just apply and wipe off the excess, job done.
When it comes to text I get the stem under my microscope and very carefully go over the text with a darning needle to clear out any old wax, gunk etc afore applying the Tipp-Ex. You would be surprised how much crap is in the script and cleaning it out first makes all the difference.
Regards,
Jay.