Please Educate Me on Dress Pipes

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mingc

Lifer
Jun 20, 2019
3,998
11,126
The Big Rock Candy Mountains
As far as I can tell, opaque dress finishes tend to be priced and treated on the same level as straight or flame grains, i.e., as premium finishes. But I'm not sure why they deserve that treatment. They're perfect for hiding fills and grainless ebuchons, so it seems you can start with cheaper blocks. So why aren't they priced accordingly, like say, rusticated models? And why do do they tend to be offered by factory brands like Dunhill, Peterson, and Stanwell, and not by individual artisans? Is this something that can be blamed on Dunhill, i.e, it's basically pretentious pricing unmoored from the merits of the pipe?
 
Mar 2, 2021
3,474
14,243
Alabama USA
"Even a barn looks better painted". This is an old way of hiding imperfections. Many now days would prefer seeing the flaws in their furniture and its in vogue to put clear coat over a rusty pickup.

Back in the day musical instrument makers used the "sunburst" to hide lesser quality grain.
 

npod

Lifer
Jun 11, 2017
2,946
1,036
Dress pipes were a "big deal" in the past. The history is interesting and worth a read. In summary, there was a need for all black pipes to be worn with evening dress attire (think Tuxedo or black suit and tie events). Usually employed on Opera pipes and billiard pipes. And it is very (very) difficult to stain a pipe true pure black. Most "black" pipes are actually dark burgundy or maroon if you look closely. And gentlemen wanted high quality stained pipes and not ones with lacquer or paint. So the dress stain was born. Dunhill and Castello worked very very very hard to create an opaque black stain. The older Dunhill dress pipes tended to have stain that would rub off easier than Castello. I have older dress pipes from Dunhill that are almost polished back to a faint stain with much of the virgin briar showing.

Castello seems to have mastered the dress stain with their process called Perla Nera. And it was a passion project by Carlo Scotti. He eventually got it right and we don't know all the secret details involved in the process, but we do know that they use crushed beetles to make the base for the stain because it produces a very pure black color.

Dress pipes aren't that common nowadays, but collectors do still chase them to complete sets. I have a few dress pipes and I prefer Castello's finish vs Dunhill because it is a true black and not a dark brown like Dunhill. Artisan carvers don't tend to produce dress pipes because the process of making a lasting black stain is very intensive and not cost beneficial for the solitary pipe maker.
 

npod

Lifer
Jun 11, 2017
2,946
1,036
And it is worth mentioning that a high quality dress stain finish requires high quality briar. The stain, while opaque, is not a cover up or "paint job". It is very different than lacquer, which is used to hide flaws. Dress finish will actually shows inherent pits and flaws in briar, so the briar is sacrificed for the opaque finish instead of being of beautiful smooth or sandblast that would have market value. Thus, dress pipes command a higher price in general.
 

telescopes

Pipe Dreamer and Star Gazer
True
Dress pipes were a "big deal" in the past. The history is interesting and worth a read. In summary, there was a need for all black pipes to be worn with evening dress attire (think Tuxedo or black suit and tie events). Usually employed on Opera pipes and billiard pipes. And it is very (very) difficult to stain a pipe true pure black. Most "black" pipes are actually dark burgundy or maroon if you look closely. And gentlemen wanted high quality stained pipes and not ones with lacquer or paint. So the dress stain was born. Dunhill and Castello worked very very very hard to create an opaque black stain. The older Dunhill dress pipes tended to have stain that would rub off easier than Castello. I have older dress pipes from Dunhill that are almost polished back to a faint stain with much of the virgin briar showing.

Castello seems to have mastered the dress stain with their process called Perla Nera. And it was a passion project by Carlo Scotti. He eventually got it right and we don't know all the secret details involved in the process, but we do know that they use crushed beetles to make the base for the stain because it produces a very pure black color.

Dress pipes aren't that common nowadays, but collectors do still chase them to complete sets. I have a few dress pipes and I prefer Castello's finish vs Dunhill because it is a true black and not a dark brown like Dunhill. Artisan carvers don't tend to produce dress pipes because the process of making a lasting black stain is very intensive and not cost beneficial for the solitary pipe maker.
True. I have two in my collection and they are a pain in the ass to maintain.
 
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mingc

Lifer
Jun 20, 2019
3,998
11,126
The Big Rock Candy Mountains
Dress pipes were a "big deal" in the past. The history is interesting and worth a read. In summary, there was a need for all black pipes to be worn with evening dress attire (think Tuxedo or black suit and tie events). Usually employed on Opera pipes and billiard pipes. And it is very (very) difficult to stain a pipe true pure black. Most "black" pipes are actually dark burgundy or maroon if you look closely. And gentlemen wanted high quality stained pipes and not ones with lacquer or paint. So the dress stain was born. Dunhill and Castello worked very very very hard to create an opaque black stain. The older Dunhill dress pipes tended to have stain that would rub off easier than Castello. I have older dress pipes from Dunhill that are almost polished back to a faint stain with much of the virgin briar showing.

Castello seems to have mastered the dress stain with their process called Perla Nera. And it was a passion project by Carlo Scotti. He eventually got it right and we don't know all the secret details involved in the process, but we do know that they use crushed beetles to make the base for the stain because it produces a very pure black color.

Dress pipes aren't that common nowadays, but collectors do still chase them to complete sets. I have a few dress pipes and I prefer Castello's finish vs Dunhill because it is a true black and not a dark brown like Dunhill. Artisan carvers don't tend to produce dress pipes because the process of making a lasting black stain is very intensive and not cost beneficial for the solitary pipe maker.
I had forgotten that Castello makes the Perla Nera. Do you have an opinion of Peterson's dress finish?
 
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npod

Lifer
Jun 11, 2017
2,946
1,036
They can be hard to maintain mainly because the black stain can wear off if the pipe is overused or polished (wiped off or rubbed) too often.

I am not as familiar with the Peterson dress stain and how it behaves over time.
 

mingc

Lifer
Jun 20, 2019
3,998
11,126
The Big Rock Candy Mountains
They can be hard to maintain mainly because the black stain can wear off if the pipe is overused or polished (wiped off or rubbed) too often.

I am not as familiar with the Peterson dress stain and how it behaves over time.
I'm beginning to think a dress finish is not for me as I tend to hold my pipes rather than clench and I like to play with them like worry stones when I smoke.
 

telescopes

Pipe Dreamer and Star Gazer
Scopes, what is it that makes yours difficult to maintain?
The black will start to wear off in time. Eventually, the grain of the wood begins to show up. Fiebing black leather dye works to retain, but it's hard to get the look of when it was store bought. It's the same with racing green dyes in the Peterson line of pipes.
 

lraisch

Part of the Furniture Now
Jul 4, 2011
628
1,226
Granite Falls, Washington state
I have a Dunhill Dress finish pipe and searched long and hard to find an estate with the stain still completely black. I was unwilling to pay the price of a new one but my wife insisted I should have one.
Here's a clue, when your wife insists you should buy another pipe, you don't argue.

It ended up being an anniversary present, so I smoke it on our anniversary and on a few other special occasions.