Which Oxiclean To Use?

[cosmicfolklore]

What is micromesh?

Micromesh is a series of pads that go from a medium (relatively speaking) grit up to a fine polish. The abrasives are bonded to a pad to reach and follow the contours of the stem. It just takes a few seconds of polishing with each pad in successive order under running water. It will bring your stem up to a shiny reflective surface without the help of oils or waxes. But, I also suggest people use a microcrystalline wax, such as Renaissance Wax as a final wipe to prevent any further oxidization.
You can find both the pads and the wax on Amazon or woodworking/metalworking craft sites.


I punch a hole in each pad and string them on a chain to make keeping them in successive order easier. I just work my way up the chain.

 

[Pipke]

It just takes a few seconds of polishing with each pad in successive order under running water. It will bring your stem up to a shiny reflective surface without the help of oils or waxes.

I find that most of the sanding work takes place at the coarser grits. I wet sand with 600/800/1000 grit sanding paper before moving on to the polishing pads. I spend the most time using 600 grit on a very oxidized stem. The work goes more quickly once you start using the polishing pads - more time with 1500-grit, and less time as you get finer and finer.

Here is a pic of a partially sanded stem still at the 600-grit stage. The whole stem was that brown color. You can see that when I am done at this stage, the oxidation will be mostly removed. This is painstaking work. Oxiclean won't help with that. And no, I am not sanding the stem while attached to the pipe. I stopped sanding because I am trying to work out how I can save the GBD emblem on the stem.

 

[Hillcrest]

I find that most of the sanding work takes place at the coarser grits. I wet sand with 600/800/1000 grit sanding paper before moving on to the polishing pads. I spend the most time using 600 grit on a very oxidized stem. The work goes more quickly once you start using the polishing pads - more time with 1500-grit, and less time as you get finer and finer.

Here is a pic of a partially sanded stem still at the 600-grit stage. The whole stem was that brown color. You can see that when I am done at this stage, the oxidation will be mostly removed. This is painstaking work. Oxiclean won't help with that. And no, I am not sanding the stem while attached to the pipe. I stopped sanding because I am trying to work out how I can save the GBD emblem on the stem.

View attachment 339419

I had a NOS Savinelli Fiamatta that had an oxidized stem like that. I used toothpaste and paper towels to get the oxidation off then oiled and waxed it. But I too did not want to ruin the logo so I left a band of oxidation around the stem at the logo so it looked like a jade band on the pipe. I know this will make purists cringe but it actually looked pretty good that way. My mileage does vary !!

 

[Pipke]

I know this will make purists cringe but it actually looked pretty good that way. My mileage does vary !!

Yup. I could just rub some obsidian oil into the stem after the 600-grit and call it a day. But smoking from a polished stem is soooooo nice that I think it's worth the effort. Even taking it out to 2400-grit polishing pad is worth it. I'm not engaged in the restore and resell thing, so what does it matter.

 

[dublinpiper90]

I’ve used just the basic only for about 30mins, and after reading this thread not sure I will anymore

 

[JoburgB2]

Micromesh is a series of pads ...

Thank you very much for the extra explanation!

 

[jhowell]

Micromesh is a series of pads that go from a medium (relatively speaking) grit up to a fine polish. The abrasives are bonded to a pad to reach and follow the contours of the stem. It just takes a few seconds of polishing with each pad in successive order under running water. It will bring your stem up to a shiny reflective surface without the help of oils or waxes. But, I also suggest people use a microcrystalline wax, such as Renaissance Wax as a final wipe to prevent any further oxidization.
You can find both the pads and the wax on Amazon or woodworking/metalworking craft sites.

View attachment 339402
I punch a hole in each pad and string them on a chain to make keeping them in successive order easier. I just work my way up the chain.

What a great idea - stolen (and kicking myself in the butt for not thinking of it...)

 

[woodrow]

Either way you lose vulcanite.

heres the trick with oxy. You DONT want to soak too long. Oxy has worked well on many pipes, but you can’t soak and forget. I’ve used it for no more than 20-30 min. Also I mask any logos with thick hockey tape.

You can sand with some 400 grade sandpaper, then hit it with the micro pads, but you still lose vulcanite.
Soft scrub can be used as well to remove some of the oxidization.