Los Angeles may be a ghost town when it comes to tobacco shop and pipes, but the food scene is alive and ever expanding.
Want a really good French dip sandwich? Head to Philippes, where it was invented and which has been serving them for the last 103 years. Or there's Cole's, which also claims to have invented the French dip sandwich, and is also located downtown. Buy one from each and compare then you decide.
If you like pastrami, LA has the best in the country and it's found at Langers, near downtown on Alvarado St, which has been serving it by the ton since the 1940's.
Pizza is alive and all over L.A. For a traditional pizza, head to Casa Bianci in Eagle Rock or Paoli's in Woodland Hills.
For excellent Mexican food you have hundreds of choices. Amongst the best known are El Tepeyac - whose Hollenbeck burrito could feed a family of 6, La Cabanita in Montrose, the downtown location of El Cholo, and Siete Mares in Silverlake.
The San Gabriel Valley is also home to the best, widest, and most varied Asian cuisine in the US. If your thing is the real deal in Chinese or Vietnamese cuisine, head there.
That's only the tip of it.