What Kind of Filler?

[LikeDadDid]

I knew my little volcano had several fills but was surprised to discover they are alcohol soluble. They were all flush until I began staining. Any ideas what was used here?

I can think of several fillers that would do the job, and favor CA with sanding dust, but what would you guys use here?

 

[BrokenRecord]

I would just use plain CA glue and not add briar dust. However I would also just leave it as is.

 

[mso489]

I've never had a fill pop out. Famous last words. That one is annoying because the surface is so smooth otherwise. But a repair might stand out too.

 

[LikeDadDid]

However I would also just leave it as is.

Haha there's an easy half dozen of them. I could drill them all out and call it wormy briar.

 

[LikeDadDid]

I've never had a fill pop out. Famous last words. That one is annoying because the surface is so smooth otherwise. But a repair might stand out too.

The repair would be visible because the CA would not take the stain. That's life!

And it didn't pop out. It eroded, and fast. That's what has me stumped. Can't imagine what it is.

 

[OzPiper]

I've never had a fill pop out. Famous last words. That one is annoying because the surface is so smooth otherwise. But a repair might stand out too.

Even if you restain the whole pipe, the repairs most likely won't take up stain like the surrounding briar, from personal experience. Kinda annoying

 

[anotherbob]

rustication would work

 

[LikeDadDid]

I might set a CZ in each fill and give it to my daughter. That'd be unique.

 

[LikeDadDid]

But actually, rustication is a great idea

 

[Country Bladesmith]

The repair would be visible because the CA would not take the stain. That's life!

I can only tell you what I do on knife handles. If there is a need for a fill, I try to use CA and a wood dust that matches the desired final color. May or may not be dust from the same wood. You can also stain the dust, let it dry, then mix it with unstained dust until you get the right color. Another option is using epoxy instead of CA. They make epoxy colorants that you can play with until the color is right.

 

[Jerry144]

Or you could mount CZs in it and keep it yourself for those special occasions....

 

[Country Bladesmith]

Or you could mount CZs in it and keep it yourself for those special occasions....

I think Liberace would’ve approved.

 

[jeepnewbie]

I’ve used a dremel mounted in my vise. Jab the pipe on at the circle cutter.

There is another way with nails epoxied together, and wood handle attached. It’s then used to rough up the surface.

Good luck and looking forward to seeing it finished.

 

[LikeDadDid]

I decided to try filling with shellac. A little drop in each defect - there's fourteen of them - and keep adding after each drop shrinks and sets hard. Then I will sand carefully and spray the whole pipe.

CA might be better, but I've used other varnishes as fillers with good results, so I will see what this does.

 

[Country Bladesmith]

I decided to try filling with shellac. A little drop in each defect - there's fourteen of them - and keep adding after each drop shrinks and sets hard. Then I will sand carefully and spray the whole pipe.

CA might be better, but I've used other varnishes as fillers with good results, so I will see what this does.

Should be fine, I’d think. It’ll just take a lot of layers.

 

[jhowell]

I decided to try filling with shellac. A little drop in each defect - there's fourteen of them - and keep adding after each drop shrinks and sets hard. Then I will sand carefully and spray the whole pipe.

CA might be better, but I've used other varnishes as fillers with good results, so I will see what this does.

Shellac has the unique property of re-amalgamating each time a new layer is added. This results in a homogenous mixture that is self leveling. Just keep in mind that alcohol attacks polymerized insect feces.

 

[jhowell]

Old time furniture repair and touch-up was done using shellac sticks (available in multiple colors) applied with a hot knife then leveled with alcohol and a felt block. I haven't done it in years but I imagine there are probably a few suppliers out there.

Just checked - Mohawk carries a full line.

 

[LikeDadDid]

Old time furniture repair and touch-up was done using shellac sticks (available in multiple colors) applied with a hot knife then leveled with alcohol and a felt block. I haven't done it in years but I imagine there are probably a few suppliers out there.

Just checked - Mohawk carries a full line.

I'd forgotten about those sticks. I'm going to try one.

Putting a nice finish on a pipe is more challenging than I expected. I think the reasons are that it's small, it's complex, and it begs for perfection. My furniture and cabinet finishing experience is proving only marginally useful. It seems easiest to stain and buff, and adding carnauba adds little or no difficulty, but moving into the realm of varnishes is a whole 'nother ball game. The closest analog from the furniture world may be French polishing, which someone else here has mentioned. I've done ok applying shellac that way, using micro mesh rather than a pumice bag, and am currently trying a micro-coating of water based polyurethane. Several coats, actually, buffing between with 000 steel wool. The results so far are promising.

 

[jpmcwjr]

I would just use plain CA glue and not add briar dust. However I would also just leave it as is.

Could you elaborate the thinking behind this? (not disagreeing per se, but curious.)

 

[jpmcwjr]

Dad- Photos would be more than welcome!