Vulcanite or other?

[cigrmaster]

Which type of stems do you prefer and how many vulcanite stems do you have in your collection? I personally love the softer feel of the vulcanite. It also seems that the design and buttons on my vulcanite stems are more conducive to clenching. I do have plenty of lucite or acrylic stems that are comfortable, but just not as comfortable as my vulcanites. Now as far as maintenance goes, they used to be more of a pain in the ass but since I started using Obisidian stem oil, it is no longer an issue. That stuff is amazing at keeping my stems clean and fresh tasting with little work on my part. I currently own 19 vulcanite stems with 2 more on the way.

 

[photoman13]

So far I have used lucite, acrylic, and vulcanite. I am inclined to agree with you about vulcanite. I haven't used obisidian oil but I use a carnuba wax that doesn't require a buffer from walker briar works that seems to keep oxidation away. As said in another thread I would like to get a cumberland stem. Especially if it is vulcanite.

 

[crk69]

I have 20 pipes with vulcanite stems, 8 with lucite stems, and 4 with acrylic. I used to dread the vulcanite due to the oxidation, but Obsidian stem oil fixed that up in a jiffy.. I also use the softy bits on my pipes, as I don't like chatter or dents on my stems...

 

[ssjones]

Of the 30 pipes in my racks, 27 are Vulcanite. I prefer the feel of Vulcanite and have the equipment to keep them shiny. But, I hate teeth marks and so I pack an acrylic stemmed pipe when I'm walking around in public, car shows, vacation, etc. With the acrylic, I can clench as tightly as needed and not damage the stem. Most of my collection is restored estate pipes and I can't bear to do any damage to them.
Of late, my two new additions, Jimmy Craig Ashtons, have "Ashtonite" stems, which is supposed to be a tougher version of vulcanite. It's been my experience that they yield nearly the same mouth feel but are very tough.

 

[photoman13]

I might have to try that obsidian oil.

 

[crpntr1]

I prefer vulcanite.

I currently have 14 vucanite and 6 lucite

 

[puffy]

With Lucite there's much more varity of colors which allows one to match bowl and stem.

 

[photoman13]

I'm glad you said it is only for vulcanite. I probably won't get it because I only have a couple of them.

 

[cigrmaster]

Looks like everyone pretty much prefers vulcanite. I have noticed that high quality German vulcanite hardly ever oxidizes where the older British stuff oxidizes as soon as it hits sun light. The German is not as soft as the British, but it is soft enough for me. The Obidisian oil while small, lasts a very long time. It only takes a minuscule drop to cover a stem, so in my mind it is well worth the price.

 

[mkelaw]

Probably 90% of my pipes have vulcanite or ebonite stems. Though the two terms are used interchangeably, vulcanite and ebonite are not exactly the same. I believe that vulcanite has a higher sulfur content than ebonite and is harder. The sulfur content contributes to oxidation problems. If you own both older Charatans and Dunhills you have probably noticed that Charatans are more prone to oxidation than Dunhills. My conclusion has been that Dunhill used a higher quality material, probably ebonite. Ebonite is more likely to show tooth indents than vulcanite and both will show more tooth marks than most acrylics which again are not entirely uniform in hardness.
I used to steer away from buying a pipe with an acrylic stem but lately I've found that it makes no difference in my enjoyment of the pipe. Actually, I'm not sure that I could tell the difference in a blind "bite test." The bonus, of course, is that you don't have to worry about oxidation and all of its issues.
From a pipe maker's point of view, acrylic rod is much easier to machine, shape and polish and, as mentioned above, the wide variety of colors and patterns allow for more creativity in design.
Maybe a test is in order. Pick two pipes with similar bits, one vulcanite and the other acrylic. Close your eyes and have someone else hold it so the feel of the pipe doesn't give away the answer. Do the test three times in succession with the "pipe-holder" changing the order and keeping track of your answers. See if you can really tell the difference and report back the results.

 

[cigrmaster]

Dave, thanks for the clarification on the term ebonite, I never knew it was interchangeable with vulcanite. I have noticed my Lane Era Charatans oxidise much quicker than my Dunhill's. But the quickest in my collection are my Upshalls, those start turning after one smoke. They are also softer than either the Charatans or Dunhill's by far, any idea why?

 

[ssjones]

I keep a small piece cloth and the Obsidian bottle in a little ziploc. The rag never dries out and I rarely have to open the bottle. If I do, a drop on the cloth renews it for all of my Vulcanite stems.

 

[ssjones]

Do the test three times in succession with the "pipe-holder" changing the order and keeping track of your answers. See if you can really tell the difference and report back the results.

Good point. I bet we're not as discerning as we think we are...

From a pipe maker's point of view, acrylic rod is much easier to machine, shape and polish and, as mentioned above, the wide variety of colors and patterns allow for more creativity in design.

I picked up a GBD 9438 recently that unfortunately has a big piece of the buttom missing. I'm not sure it is repairable and asked Dave @ Walker if he could make me a tapered, Vulcanite stem for it (and move the GBD rondell to the new stem). He said he cannot get vulcanite rod stock in that width (23 mm) any longer. I assume an acrylic stem could easily be made for it. I'm going to try the repair first, I've got nothing to lose now.

 

[ssjones]

All of my restored pipes get a final buff with Blue Magic plastic polish. That seems to keep the oxidation at bay, at least my four Upshalls really haven't shown any sign of oxidation in over a year now. I think it must add some protective layer?

 

[cigrmaster]

Al, I don't have a buffing machine so do you think the blue magic would work on my Upshalls?

 

[ssjones]

Al, I don't have a buffing machine so do you think the blue magic would work on my Upshalls?

I don't see why it wouldn't work by hand as well. Couple of bucks for a bottle at Autozone, etc. Use the rest on your plastic car lights (I bet the Key's sand does a number on them).

 

[mkelaw]

[/quote]They are also softer than either the Charatans or Dunhill's by far, any idea why?
I haven't handled enough Upshalls to either know why their stems feel softer than Dunhill or Charatan or to notice that they oxidize unusually quickly.

 

[cigrmaster]

Al, I will try it.
Dave, it is pretty weird actually. As soon as I am done smoking one of these 2 particular Upshalls, the stem has started to turn yellow, even though I condition them with Obidisian. None of my other vulcanite stems do this. I don't know the age of these 2 particular Upshalls, but they are older. I have a Upshall with a cumberland stem that does not do this at all. My Dunhill's and Charatans go for months without issue.

 

[juvat270]

I prefer acrylic as I think it looks better and you don't have to worry about oxidization. Having said that, I'm not picky about it and rarely give much thought about stem material when buying or smoking pipes. Also, I rarely clench, so the "softness" of vulcanite is a non issue to me.

 

[colcolt]

I have a bottle of Obsidian but only know for sure that my Nording has the vulcanite stem. The others I'm not sure what sort of stem they are and don't know how you'd tell. I've been hesitant putting the oil on them as I didn't know what would happen(if anything) if I used it on acrylic.Some of the pipes I've bought I thought I'd go back to where I bought them and click on the specs but that info is no longer there.