Vulcanite and Rubber Bit Maintenance

[hoipolloiglasgow]

Check out what it did to my Comoy's. The bit was only on there for a week. I still use the bits as they protect the stem, I'm just super careful now with wiping and removing them.

 

[georged]

Thanks for the reply - the shadowing on the bit - only under the rubber bit piece- is on a Lasse Skovgaard, a Dunhill and a Mike Bay - should be some pretty high quality vulcanite there.

You'd think so, but it's more complicated than that.

First line manufacturers of vulcanite produce bad batches from time to time, and not all first line makers of pipes---as they're recognized today---actually used the best materials available at the time they were made.

 

[dad-o-nine]

Check out what it did to my Comoy's. The bit was only on there for a week. I still use the bits as they protect the stem, I'm just super careful now with wiping and removing them.View attachment 263653

Exactly! Buffing with 6000. 8000 then 12000 can remove but would rather not have to do that. Silicone bit protectors might work better, no sulfur.

 

[hoipolloiglasgow]

Exactly! Buffing with 6000. 8000 then 12000 can remove but would rather not have to do that. Silicone bit protectors might work better, no sulfur.

Yeah, I still need to try those and see how they compare.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Something worth mentioning when "maintenance methods" are discussed:

The reason different people get different results, regardless of their method, is because vulcanite is all over the map. There are varying qualities of the stuff---MANY of them when old pipes are in play---and each formulation reacts / bahaves differently to use, storage, abuse, etc.

Put another way, saying "vulcanite" is like saying "wood". It depends on what KIND of wood when behaviors are measured. (The different characteristics aren't as extreme as wood, but you get the idea.)

The obvious gotcha being that vulcanite quality can't be seen at a glance the way different woods can. Suppliers and recipes/quality aren't (necessarily) consistent over time within the same pipe brand.

How true. This morning I gazed lovingly at a pipe I bought almost 60 years ago. Not a trace of oxidation I can see, and the pipe has never been sanded or in anyway treated to counter oxidation except a bit of mineral oil. The only nomenclature I can make out says "WAGNER"

 

[UB 40]

Got some estates wich showed clear signs of smoking with a bit on the vulcanite. @PipeIT it oxides even faster under the bit. Won’t use them. As far as I experienced Cumberland stems are as tough as any other vulcanite. So I won’t mind about tooth marks. It’s not meant to be chewed like jumbo bones treat.

 

[UB 40]

How true. This morning I gazed lovingly at a pipe I bought almost 60 years ago. Not a trace of oxidation I can see, and the pipe has never been sanded or in anyway treated to counter oxidation except a bit of mineral oil. The only nomenclature I can make out says "WAGNER"

Maybe you’re pipe isn’t that old.

One Wagner I could spot on is Michael Wagner. He started producing pipes in 2001. Compare Wagner Pipes - Pipedia - https://pipedia.org/wiki/Wagner_Pipes

The other Wagner, David Wagner, died at the age of 54 two years ago. Exquisite pipe maker he was. Baff Tabakpfeifenunikate - Pipedia - https://pipedia.org/wiki/Baff_Tabakpfeifenunikate

Maybe there are other Wagners around. I just was curious.

 

[PipeIT]

Oh, if we are talking about keeping the bits on for a longer period time, even after smoking, NO, definitely not!

Take them off as soon as you’re done smoking.

Yes, the longer they stay on, the more it does speed up some oxidiation.

Now depending on the stem quality, that will vary, but I can say, in high quality vulcanite/cumberland I’ve had the bits on for upwards of 8 hours with no problems.

I probably wouldn’t go much beyond 8 hours...