I actually went into Big Al's while I was there in May. It's pretty much a head shop but, they did have some Peter Stokkabye bulk, unfortunately it was mostly aromatics. They had a few bacarinni pipes too.
sablebrush, you are spot on about the Italian food and architecture. Being Italian myself, I was elated when I found the Stinking Rose and their "Bagna Caulda Room". Oh my word! Of course the Primanti's style sammiches at Giordano Bros was the closest thing I've experienced in years, to being back in Pittsburgh.
The architecture is truly amazing and there are beautiful views from pretty much anywhere in the city. The pictures I took are all gorgeous... and they don't reek of piss.