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isodave2

Lurker
Jan 8, 2011
18
0
I am building up my tobacco collection. Because I now have and will continue to have more than I can smoke in the next six months to a year, what are your thoughts on preserving versus aging the tobaccos. For instance, I have used my food vacuuming appliance to package some of my bulk tobacco and have also stored some in canning jars. I'm interested in hearing everyone's thoughts on this.

 

bubbadreier

Lifer
Jul 30, 2010
3,011
4
Norman, Oklahoma
Hey isodave2 and welcome to the forums! Here is a great article about Pipe Tobacco Storage that was written by our very own Bob Tate.

There is also plenty of information on the subject in G.L. Pease's FAQ section on his website. I went ahead and copied and pasted it for you...

Q: Will all tobaccos improve with age?
A: Generally, any tobacco with plenty of natural sugars will age wonderfully. Virginia is always a prime candidate, but so are blends with lots or Oriental leaf. Though Oriental varieties don't have as much sugar as Virginias, they do contain enough to go through fermentation in the tin, and will improve over time, developing increasing complexity and a wine-like quality that is hard to describe.
Q: Isn't "fresh" tobacco better?
A: Unless you go to a plantation, or grow your own, you'll never see "fresh" tobacco. By the time it gets into the hands of the blender, it's been cured, sweated, fermented, and allowed to "settle down." Once it's blended, the finished product is allowed to meld for a time before it's put into the tins. Then, the real magic of the aging process begins. While a well conceived blend will be delicious almost immediately after blending, time in the tin will make a noticeable change, adding complexity and smoothing out any rough edges.
Q: How soon is blend "right" for proper smoking?
A: This is dependent upon several factors, including the blend itself, tobacco processing methods, storage conditions and personal taste. While certainly not at its best, a well balanced blend with good structure will smoke very well shortly after it's blended, and certainily by the time the consumer gets it. If it's not good when it's young, it may improve over time, but it will never likely become great. Tobacos that are pressed as part of their processing, of course, have an edge on those that are blended as previously cut ribbons, because the tobaccos have been given an opportunity to get to know one another more intimately. That was part of the motivation behind the Old London Series, and I'm really thrilled with the results.
But, after a couple months in the tin, even with ribbon-blended tobaccos, the various components will "marry," will integrate into a more cohesive whole, rather than present themselves as individual aspects of the blend. Within one to five years, the tobacco will really begin to shine. Beyond this time frame, the changes are much more gradual. While the blend may continue to improve for years, even decades, the changes will not be as dramatic as they are in the first few years. Some people enjoy the exuberance of some blends in their youth, while others prefer the more mature complexity of tobaccos that have been aged for long periods. I recommend experimenting to see what suits you best with each blend or style.
Q: How long can I expect a blend to improve?
A: It really depends on the blend. A full Virginia will continue to improve, though at an increasingly slow rate, over many decades. Most English style tobaccos can go 20-30 years before they begin to go "over the hill." Very full Latakia styles have a shorter life expectancy. Of course, storage conditions will play a part. It the tobacco is cellared at a constant, cool temperature, it will last longer than if it's stored in higher temperatures, or with lots of temperature variations. Despite some popular "techniques," heat is not the tobacco's friend, especially once it's had a little age behind it.
In general, the more virginia tobaccos there are in a blend, the longer it will maintain its composure. Orientals, too, seem to be very long lived, and age quite gracefully. Latakia loses its edge, and becomes much softer after some years, so if the blend depends on that intense, smoky spice for it's character, it's not a good candidate for long aging. But, if there is good structure underneath the Latakia, even though the blend will transform into something different, something less pungent, it'll still have the potential to deliver an amazing smoking experience.
Q: What's the best way to store tobacco for aging?
A: Ideally, tobacco should be left in its original sealed tin, and stored in a cool, dry place. It's important to realize that storage in plastic bags and the like, while allowing the tobacco to "meld," will prevent the true aging process. Plastic bags are permeable to small molecules. (Water, while not a very large molecule, is polarized, and has a hard time penetrating the barrier formed by the plastic.) If you can smell the contents through the bag, you're losing flavor and aroma! Mason jars, bail-top jars and so on are good candidates for long term storage, as long as you can resist the urge to open them to "check up" on what's happening. Aging tobacco must be left alone, with no gas exchange allowed. Once an aged tin is open, the contents should either be smoked relatively quickly, or transferred to a jar with a good seal.
Q: What about vacuum sealing?
A: Vacuum sealing is great for vegetables and coffee, but is pointless for tobacco. Tobacco needs some air to be locked in with it , at least to begin with, in order for it to age. A perfectly vacuum sealed container will likely keep the tobacco "fresh," but it may not really age the way we expect it to. I'm more than a little suspicious about the heavy plastic "bags" used by most of these machines. They hold moisture in just fine, but they really don't prevent gas exchange, and I'm not sure they're truly able to stand the test of time. Tins are best. Jars are a close second. The special high barrier bags we used for a while for our 8oz packaging have several layers, each designed to be impenetrable to a different sort of molecule. I've conducted extended tests with this material, and am satisified that the tobacco will age nearly, if not as well as in the tins, at least for the short term. They are only slightly evacuted to facilitate packing and sealing. For best long-term aging, though, I still recommend tins.
Q: I've read about heating the tobacco in a microwave. Is this a good idea?
A: In a word, NO. Heating tobacco that you like is not a good idea, as it will change the character of the blend. Blenders do it in specifically controlled ways - stoving, panning, steaming - to alter the characteristics of the leaf before, and sometimes after blending. But, if you like the way the tobacco “comes together” now, you may be less than happy if you nuke it. In some cases, you might notice an improvement, in others, the result will be anything but satisfactory. Further, there just is no reason to do this. Sterilize your jars, fill them up, and put the caps on. What purpose will heating serve? The jars will seal fine without the “pop” of the slight vacuum that results from cooling.
Q: So, I've opened an aged tin. Now what?
A: This is a little tricky. Once the seal of the tin is broken, the delicate balance present in that little ecosystem is permanently altered. You can't go back! So, once that tin is open, either smoke its contents fairly quickly, or transfer it to air-tight containers, like bail-top canning jars. The aging process from this point on will be different, but the tobacco will remain in fine condition for your enjoyment as long as it's kept in good condition. (The plastic lids on my tins will keep the tobacco in find shape for anywhere from a couple weeks to a few months, depending on the ambient temperature and humidity. Just keep an eye on it!) This is the reason, by the way, that I cellar 2-oz tins, rather than the 8-oz ones. Once I open that tin, I want to smoke its contents as quickly as possible to get the maximum enjoyment from my years of patience. It's like a fine wine - cellar it for a long time, but drink it fairly quickly.
Q: What abot plastic bags, like zip-locks?
A: While plastic bags can form a reasonably good barrier to moisture, keeping the tobacco ready to smoke, the polyethylene that is used for most plastic bags is quite permeable to gasses. You can smell tobacco through the bags, after a time, and all that “aroma” that's getting out is stuff that you really want to keep in! For my 8-oz bags, I use a high-barrier film that forms a barrier to both water and gasses. These will not only keep the tobacco at the perfect smoking moisture, but will also allow aging to take place. This just won't happen with plastic bags, even those that are used with kitchen heat-sealing machines. For short term, like keeping an ounce around for smoking, plastic bags are fine. For long term storage, fuggedaboutit.
Q: Which of your blends are best suited for aging?
A: I design all my blends with aging in mind. Barbary Coast, being based on Burley, is probably the blend that will benefit least from long cellaring, though the flavors WILL continue to meld over several years, and there's enough virginia leaf, as well as perique, to afford some significant change. The cigar leaf in Robusto may peak after 5-7 years, but the Virginias and oriental leaf will continue to develop increased complexity. All the rest will improve for 10, 20, 30, 40 years or even longer. Ask me again at the turn of the next century...
I am actually fairly new to storing tobacco myself. I was very much the "only get what you can smoke in a week" type of smoker and I honestly smoked mostly OTC. As of 6 months ago I saw the light (thanks to the likes of Cortez, Unclearthur, Surfmac, igloo,etc...) and now I store as many blends as I can get my hands on!

As far as my methods for storing my bulk tobaccos, I buy the half pint mason (canning) jars to store my tobacco in. I wash the jars and lids, dry them very well, and shove my tobacco into them! I don't heat them, boil them, or anything!

 

obelus

Starting to Get Obsessed
Dec 24, 2010
102
0
Portland, OR
That's excellent advice. There's also an old article on various storage techniques and their virtues here. Because I've always tended to purchase more than I have time to smoke, I've stored blends for years in sealed, sterile canning jars in a refrigerator that I very inexpensively modified to maintain a constant temperature of 55 degrees (for wine storage). What's good for aging wines seems to agree w/ tobacco, although that's just my experience. Of course, over time, you find yourself scrounging around for yet another fridge.

 

fred

Lifer
Mar 21, 2010
1,509
5
A lot of good information has already been posted in this thread. One

point does deserve mention. Most of us re-use the jars we cellar blends

in. Before putting more tobacco into a jar that has contained a blend in

storage, wash the jar - even if you are putting a new issue of the same

blend that you just took out of that jar. The oils and remnants of the

tobacco that was stored in the jar can influence what you put into it next,

and worse could introduce contaminants to the new blend that you didn't

know were in the blend that you had previously stored in that jar. This

is good to have in mind, whether you're putting a blend into storage or

just keeping some bulk in a jar that you can fill your Pipe from.

 

igloo

Lifer
Jan 17, 2010
4,083
5
woodlands tx
Sometimes when I open a jar that has come out of the cellar I can smell the fermintation .If it is not to my likeing I will put it away for more rest . This seems to be more so to Virginia than the other blends .

 

yoru

Part of the Furniture Now
Jan 5, 2011
585
1
This is a good a place as any to say -- read up on exactly what people mean when they say use mason jars -before- using them.
I just canned a good 5 pounds of tobacco day before last...or was it yesterday. . .I forget time. . . anyway today I happened upon an article that said explicitly -- do not boil the jars with tobacco in them.
Which is exactly what I -did-. Now I know enough about chemistry to know that -if- it ruined any of them, it was by pure bad luck. . .but it definitely -changed- all of them, and that has me worried regardless. . .. Why I didn't think of this at the time I have no idea. Especially given the fact I left so little space in most the jars I'll probably have to re-do them in short order or they won't be doing much aging anyway.
I can be a right git when I wanna be I tell you.

 

romeowood

Lifer
Jan 1, 2011
1,943
161
The Interwebs
I think what you did was 'wet stove' your tobacco yoru :lol:
If it isn't ash or moldy, then you didn't ruin it; like you said, you just changed it. Chalk it up to experimentation and let us know the results.

Personally I've been torturing a few ounces of blends I'm not overly fond of--stuff I've picked up in the last year from B&M's to taste-test. Trying my own methods to case, stove, press, flue and dry. Only came close to burning the house down once (and it didn't smell all that bad so no foul). Of course the landlady is convinced I'm a mad scientist, but that works in my favor.

:crazy:

 

yoru

Part of the Furniture Now
Jan 5, 2011
585
1
Heh heh heh, dun forget to try a big dollop of molasses and put it in a hooka.
One way to do it.
I mixed some Sunset Breeze with rose petals and made some not long ago -- was damned fine it was.

 

maineyachtie

Can't Leave
Aug 14, 2010
346
0
Hey guys and gals,
I've been having a problem with storing my tobacco. I'll describe the process I'm currently using and hopefully someone can let me know what I'm doing wrong.
My desire is to store tobacco relatively short term (a few weeks to several months) to maintain it's moisture content. I do this because I like to have several tins open at a time, but don't want it dry as prairie grass in a matter of two weeks.
Here's my process. I loosely place 2 to 6 ounces of tobacco in a clear 8 ounce acrylic airtight container. I store the containers in the back of a closet where the temperature is 63*F. and very little light ever reaches. After only two to four weeks I find the tobacco is extremely dry. I do open the containers, but perhaps twice each in the two to four week period.
What am I doing wrong???
Thanks all

 

directshot

Might Stick Around
Dec 22, 2010
73
0
In short.... articles and points of view like this is why I enjoy this forum so much. Just when you think you have most if not all the info you need along come questions and answers like these.

Thanks you all.... :worship:

 

yoru

Part of the Furniture Now
Jan 5, 2011
585
1
Unless there's something wrong with the container I don't see how it would dry out that fast.
Hell my stuff stays moist longer than that in just some bloody ziplock baggies.
try mason jars -- for short term all you have to do is put on the lid, to hell with the seal.

 

python

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 8, 2009
3,756
7,296
Maryland
pipesmagazine.com
Maineyachtie, it seems that the containers that you are using are not air tight. I suggest using mason jars. They are airtight and can be re-used over and over again.

 

pstlpkr

Lifer
Dec 14, 2009
9,694
31
Birmingham, AL
Maineyachtie, I concur with Bob's suggestion... but I have another.

If you are using acrylic containers because of an ongoing and present danger of breakage, e.g. aboard your vessel, you might consider a bail-top type acrylic jar. I can acquire them in the kitchen wares section of the our local Wally World. They are inexpensive and will give you a decent if not completely air tight seal.
bailtopacrylic.jpg


 

maineyachtie

Can't Leave
Aug 14, 2010
346
0
Thanks for the replies guys.
So no one sees any problem with acrylic as long as it is airtight?
What if there is a large amount of airspace between the tobacco (not being packed or compressed at all into the container), or above the tobacco (placing a small amount of tobacco in a large container)? Should either of those scenarios cause moisture loss?
I paid a pretty penny for the acrylic jars. Their air-tightness was guaranteed so I hope to get my money back.
Your help is always appreciated,
Alex

 

pstlpkr

Lifer
Dec 14, 2009
9,694
31
Birmingham, AL
Hey Maine,
Too much air can be a problem too.

I personally compress the tobacco lightly, and try not to leave too much space between the tobacco and the lids. (Trying to approximate the original condition/packing of the tobacco.)

 
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